She wants a Mini, wants it manual (thank goodness) and she knows as much about cars as I do cosmetics.
She did mention she wants a used one, prefers the "bigger looking one" (I assume she means the clubman), and will mostly likely be moving back to L.A. with it.
I know very little about what the good and bad years were. What are some common failure pionts? Things to watch? Link to a "mini buyer's guide?"
Ok... update from her. She will be buying in Atlanta in the next 6 weeks. Budget is $12k max.
The 05-06 cars were by far the best of the first generation with lots of improvements across the board. She might be able to find a high mile second generation in that price range; I suppose it's ATL so anything is possible but I have yet to see any Clubmans under $14k around here.
SlickDizzy wrote: The 05-06 cars were by far the best of the first generation with lots of improvements across the board. She might be able to find a high mile second generation in that price range; I suppose it's ATL so anything is possible but I have yet to see any Clubmans under $14k around here.
'05-'06 cars of the first gen are the best of the lot. Cooper S's had better gear ratios and the regular Cooper got the improved Getrag transmission (replacing the Midlands unit). I had the chance to buy an '02 and passed on it as it had many issues but the price was right. I'm waiting until I can afford a newer one.
Heck, I found an 06 with 50k for $11k. I'll tell her to get on this search.
Coolant reservoirs fail pretty often if memory serves?
Never had one fail in my 05- though my oil pan gasket is failing slowly. This is another common issue.
JAhmed wrote: Coolant EVERYTHING fail pretty often if memory serves?
Fixed that for ya 
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/ctd/4103268248.html
2009 Cubman, 100k, $13,000.00 AT (:(( Close!
Here it is 2010 Clubman 6 speed 73k $12,000
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/ctd/4067611314.html
Forwarded both of those along. Thanks clownkiller.
Junkyard_Dog wrote:JAhmed wrote: Coolant EVERYTHING fail pretty often if memory serves?Fixed that for ya
Tell me more about coolant system issues?
Coolant systems are more of an R53 issue, less so on the later R56 (hardtop) and R55 (Clubman) versions you're looking at. Timing chain issues are the later cars' problem, although I hear more about it with turbo cars than N/A versions.
While they look similar, R50/53/52 cars ('02-06, '05-'08 'verts) and R56 (and its variants to present) share very few components - like a handful of suspension bits.
www.motoringfile.com
The '07 S versions had a couple of motor issues.
Cold start timing chain slap - Sounds horrible when it happens but doesn't hurt anything unless you wind up a cold slapping motor. Tensioner was redesigned in 08 or 09.
Weak PCV system/intake valve sludge - Robs power as the car ages, may throw a misfire code when globs hit the combustion chamber. PCV system was also redesigned in 08 or 09.
Best to avoid the 07's.
Dashpot wrote: The '07 S versions had a couple of motor issues. Cold start timing chain slap - Sounds horrible when it happens but doesn't hurt anything unless you wind up a cold slapping motor. Tensioner was redesigned in 08 or 09. Weak PCV system/intake valve sludge - Robs power as the car ages, may throw a misfire code when globs hit the combustion chamber. PCV system was also redesigned in 08 or 09. Best to avoid the 07's.
I've got an 07 and have had the former problem, though only when cold (winter) and doesn't seem to arise at all if the oil is topped up. I also had the latter problem and fixed it through a Seafoam treatment. I'm not sure these issues were fixed as soon as you say as it seems the later cars have similar problems in the forums.
The other issue is that the plastic thermostat housing can leak, which is a $125 DIY job and $450-$500 dealer fix. Recently there was a shortage of parts leaving a lot of 'em parked. This is a R56 problem, not just an '07 problem.
Definitely point her towards the base model and not the S. The S is the one that has had the numerous well known issue. Timing chain, carbon build up on valves, etc... The base model seems to be much more reliable.
Buy a new MINI with warranty drive it until the warranty expires then sell it, it will cost you far less than owning a used MINI for the same amount of time.
evildky wrote: Buy a new MINI with warranty drive it until the warranty expires then sell it, it will cost you far less than owning a used MINI for the same amount of time.
QFT
evildky wrote: Buy a new MINI with warranty drive it until the warranty expires then sell it, it will cost you far less than owning a used MINI for the same amount of time.
This is likely pretty good advice.
I have an 06 R52 S and it has had lots of issues. The newer ones don't appear to all that great either. They have an issue with carbon build up on the valves that requires a $600+ clean out every 60k or so too.
If see wants a Clubman she has to go 07+ and get pretty high miles. Without a turbo they are pretty slow.
Some of the worst issues were fixed by MY2011, so getting a new one and selling later sounds wise to me.
evildky wrote: Buy a new MINI with warranty drive it until the warranty expires then sell it, it will cost you far less than owning a used MINI for the same amount of time.
If you're trying to make a pure money-based decision, perhaps it would be better to buy a used one and then buy an extended warranty. The first couple of years of depreciation on a new one could be pretty expensive. I think the newest ones have five year factory service and warranty coverage, so buying one that is two or three years old with a couple years left on the factory warranty might be the sweet spot financially.
FYI, I bought my '07 S new and it was about $28k out the door. If I sold it today I expect I'd get around $12k. That's about $2700 per year in depreciation, though it was probably front-end loaded. Even under warranty, there weren't any expensive repairs, mostly just maintenance. I've since done all the work on it myself and that hasn't added up to a lot for parts. A few hundred for brakes, thermostat, oil changes, filters, plugs, etc.
YMMV, though, I know the issues some people have experienced can be very expensive. It could be that I'm just lucky.
Aspen wrote: They have an issue with carbon build up on the valves that requires a $600+ clean out every 60k or so too.
$600??? Who?? Where?? I got a bridge to sell them! 
(translation: do a search - there are indi shops who will do that service for much less)
Personally, I'd only consider a later R53 factory JCW, but I'm a different buyer: primary for auto-x and I can practically rip apart an R53 and put it back together again in my sleep.
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