Holley rebuild kit help needed.

Trying to find a decent rebuild kit for my little 500 Holley two barrel.

Bought one that I was sure would be good, but all of the seals are hard white plastic/urethane rather than soft rubber or cork like the original. Doesn't seem like a hard plastic washer is going to seal the float bowl bolts very well, you know?

No seals at all for the adjustment needles on the sides of the metering block. Kinda shabby over-all but DOES have nice blue metering block gaskets.

Checked the Holley site, but it's WAY to awkward to be of any use at all. (Where did their interface come from, 1983?) and their search engine keeps giving the same results (for a four barrel) whenever I look for a two barrel rebuild kit.

Useless and frustrating at the VERY best.

Anyone got a link to or a recommendation (and where to buy it) for a quality Holley 500 two barrel rebuild kit?

Thanks ! !

T

what is the list number stamped on the choke tower? go to Summitracing.com and look it up there.

assuming it's a 2300 series, then pick from this page:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/section/carburetors-accessories/part-type/carburetor-rebuild-kits/carburetor-manufacturer/holley/brand/holley/carburetor-model/2300

but it's probably this kit right here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-37-474/media/images

THANKS ! ! !

Wrong accelerator pump (too tall), but looks good ! ! Probably one of the others is right.

T

looks like a standard Holley accelerator pump- might be for the bigger capacity pump.

98% of the time I can find what I need from any of these guys: http://www.summitracing.com/ http://www.jegs.com/ http://www.speedwaymotors.com/

The plastic/nylon washer do seal the fuel bowl screws quite well and are reusable. I prefer them over the cork or fiber ones. Oh and Holleys site is a pain to find anything.

Again, thanks gang, you ALWAYS have the answers, pretty darn AMAZING ! ! ! ! !

I'll post some (probably embarrassing) pics of the carb when I finish it up.

TC

TeamEvil wrote: Again, thanks gang, you ALWAYS have the answers, pretty darn AMAZING ! ! ! ! ! I'll post some (probably embarrassing) pics of the carb when I finish it up. TC

embarassing? it's almost impossible to screw up a rebuild on a Holley carb..

Help ! ! I'm making some headway with my "it's a snap t rebuild a Holley" Holley two barrel rebuild, but now I have a couple of more problems/questions.

The carb originally was missing the accelerator pump actuating lever, I managed to get one off of an old four barrel that a friend had mostly stripped out for parts and dumped it here so that I could add it to my scrap metal pile. Worked out swell.

Wondering now about the metering block/missing emulsion tubes.

I was looking at the fourr barrel in case I needed any more bits and bobs and noticed that the metering block had emulsion tubes. The two barrel doesn't ! ! Am I missing them or didn't the two barrels (2300 series) have them to begin with. Wondering . . .

Also, wondering where is the timed vacuum port on the Holey two barrel? There;s nothing on the carb body or the metering block at all. There are three tubes exiting from the throttle plate in three different sizes; small medium and large. The bigger diameter tube heads straight out the rear, the other two are angled and in front. The medium one towards the choke side of the carb, the smallest near the middle and under the metering block and fuel bowl.

Is one of these the timed vac port? Sure hope so as I can't find anything else that protrudes from the carb anywhere.

Any additional help on these newest "problems" would be HUGE ! ! !

Thanks, as always,

T

big one is for pcv. the smaller of the other 2 is the ported vacuum

Thanks ! Any ideas on the lack of emulsion tubes in the metering block?

Factory or missing?

T

factory i belive but it's been to long....

The needles in the sides of the metering block should have some little cork seals. If those are not in place, you'll get a vacuum leak in the idle circuit and the needles can vibrate causing them to change adjustment.

every Holley carb i've ever had (all 4 barrels, but they use the same parts..) has had a port on the passenger side of the primary metering block that was a source for ported vacuum... some of them have had a tube pressed in, some were tapped with what looked like 1/8" NPT threads with a fitting, but they've all had something there.

i never use that port- it's always been manifold vacuum for my vacuum advance needs.

"Every Holley carb i've ever had (all 4 barrels, but they use the same parts..) has had a port on the passenger side of the primary metering block that was a source for ported vacuum..."

Same here, but this one doesn't. Maybe because it's a two barrel. Where that port ought to be is a blind hole about 1/4" deep. I need a timed port for the vac. advance on the Accel. Really beginning to HATE this little carb.

The rebuild kit came with rubber "O" rings rather than the little cork seals. Not sure that I trust them, but no choice really.

Newest problem is setting the depth of the needle and seat in the top of the float bowl. This carb has an adjustable one and I'm not sure where to set it. Rather not have the bowl over fill/over flow because the float was set too high.

Precious little info came with the rebuild kit and no pictures what-so-ever.

In reply to TeamEvil:

turn the bowl over w/ needle assy. installed and hold level. eyeball adjust the float to level, that'll ballpark it and be enough to start/ run. final adjustment w/ engine running, adjust fuel level up to bottom of screw on side of bowl

Thanks, I think that worked. To check further, I held the float down and shook the float bowl, heard the needle moving up and down. Then held the float at the mid-point and shook again. Heard the needle once more. Pinned the float at the top and shook, no sound or movement in the needle. In the up/closed position.

Sure are subtle adjustments here though. Just a half turn at the end made the difference. Still, I figure for the seals to work, the seat has to be below the level of the top of the adjuster nut otherwise tightening the lock screw wouldn't compress them. When I took everything apart for the rebuild, the seat was below the top of the float bowl hole, nothing to grab at all. Had to get it out with needle nose pliers from inside the bowl.

did you use a genuine Holley kit or a parts store kit? because if you got a parts store kit, your needle and seat adjustment will be backwards and you will be putting new seals in it within a year.

regarding the lack of a vacuum port on the side of the metering block: can you grab the metering block off your "parts" carburetor? just swap the jets and power valve in and you are done..

Set the float level with engine running remove the screw in the side of the float bowl and adjust slowly untill fule reaches the bottom of the screw hole hard part of doing this is getting the lock screw on the adjuster nut loose enough but not to loose then not over adjusting... I like the gas float bowl height scrws so i never have to worry about if the level is set right just peak in the window.

"did you use a genuine Holley kit or a parts store kit? because if you got a parts store kit, your needle and seat adjustment will be backwards and you will be putting new seals in it within a year."

Had no luck at all finding a kit on the Holley site, so I bought a kit from Summit. The seals were the white urethane ones, under and over the adjuster "nut." The seat seems to adjust correctly, I THINK, how is it backwards?

Just checked the metering block on the quad, large blind hole where the vac. port usually is. No luck there either.

Next person who mentions to me that a Holley rebuild is a snap is gonna get a nosefull for sure.

on real Holley needle and seat assemblies, you adjust it by turning the nut and lock it down with the screw... on the aftermarket junk kits, you adjust it with the screw and lock it down with the nut. you turn the different styles the opposite direction to get the same result. i think it's a patent thing..

Whew . . . !

The kit that I got from Summit might be a similar one to the official Holley kit. With this one, the nut adjusts the depth of the needle and the screw locks everything down. At least THAT'S right.

I'm still not loving the little "O" ring rubber seals for the idle mixture screws on the side of the metering block, I may just reuse the cork ones that were in place. They look to be in fine shape.

I found a short video on YouTube tat has a carb just like mine on an engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFqO7Qup_64

Same open blind hole in the metering block where the vac. line would normally attached, and what looks like a vac. line and gauge attached to the middle outlet on the throttle plate.

Thanks for the needle/seat info. WHAT a learning curve ! ! ! !

T