Our 2014 odyssey has about 75k miles on it and I figured I should go ahead and do the timing belt. I see rockauto has kits with water pumps, tensioners and pulleys. Besides ac delco I dont really know much about these brands. Is there a known "best brand" for these? Should I skip them and go to a honda dealer? Anything else I should be doing when I do this job?
I've used Dayco, Aisin, and Conti. The Aisin seemed to have the best quality.
You will thank yourself for doing it at "only" 75k when you see the tensioner. I have yet to see one with over 60k that wasn't heaving oil. They run out of oil around 150k and then it sounds like a bad rod knock as the tensioner arm bounces around.
Would not worry about replacing any seals. Have never seen a cam or crankshaft seal leak, have seen many many oil pump O rings leak. This requires removing the oil pan, which is a bit more involved than it really needs to be. It's usually leaking by the time the second timing belt is due.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Thanks pete. Are these pretty straight forward? Do I need any special tools for removing the crank pulley or holding the timing sprockets?
Asian good.
Honda self torquing crank bolt. 125 foot pounds to tighten, 300 to loosen.
For a transverse V6, they are not too bad to work on. A little mirror can be helpful for seeing timing marks.
Our local Honda dealer is friendly with DIY's ... so... since I'm saving so much doing it myself I buy the Honda parts. Then I leave the receipt in the glove box. When I sell the car later, it scores points.
YMMV
In reply to gearheadmb :
OEM Tools (Autozone) sells a five pound 19mm crank bolt socket that makes a complete joke of it. You can sit there rattling the bolt with an impact and regular socket until you are blue in the face. Put the heavy socket on and BAP it loosens up. Would never have believed it if I didn't see for myself.
Job is extremely straightforward, no special tools aside from the crank bolt socket that makes life muuuuch easier. The engine mount you have to remove does not actually support anything, so you do not need to hold the engine up to remove it. I always disconnect and plug the power steering pump and its inlet hose to get them out of the way. Really, the only pain is removing the chassis side engine mount, needed to be able to get sockets on the engine side mount bracket. To do that you need to either have fourteen swivel extensions to get to the outboard bolt, or you need to remove the computer bracket.
I usually pop the belt off through the wheelwell, remove the crank damper (slip fit, watch for the key), remove the belt tensioner (must come off to get the forward upper cover off), remove the lower belt cover, then do all the up top stuff. I always mark the pulleys, belt, and cylinder heads because the timing marks are very hard to see, especially the rear one. Matching the marks to the new belt makes lining everything up stupid simple, no reason to not do it.
One more question, is the crank bolt RH or LH thread on these?
gearheadmb said:One more question, is the crank bolt RH or LH thread on these?
There are no reverse thread fasteners.
It's just that stuck. That is why the magic socket is such a mind-blower.
Can confirm weighted sockets are magic. I have an IR branded one, can pull crank pulleys anytime, anywhere.
Just for comparison sake, I looked up some OEM Honda part prices for your van from Hondapartsnow.com
Timing belt $79
Tensioner $142
Idler $50
Water pump $146
$417 total plus shipping and taxes. I love OEM parts but that's a pretty big difference
In reply to gearheadmb :
Here is honda pricing for comparison and what parts we normally replace.
Total parts is $722.54
is your maintenance minder saying it is due? or are you just doing it preventatively?
I've done two J-series motors with the Aisin kit and have been pleased with the quality of the parts. Only buy it from a major retailer like Rock Auto, never through Amazon or eBay. Lots of counterfeit parts on the latter two sites, I've seen a ton of forum and FB posts in these situations. Honda OEM parts I would only buy from a dealer (online or in-person), if you're using those.
I have a Milwaukee 1/2" impact (2767-20) that makes quick work of the crank bolts (with the high mass socket). To tighten the crank bolt back up, you'll need a crank holder tool, and I use a 4' long 3/4" breaker bar with two 10" or 12" long 3/4" extensions to get the breaker bar out of the wheel well. There's a low torque spec, but an additional 60 degrees of rotation that's required. I rest the last extension on a jack stand to support it as I torque it.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:is your maintenance minder saying it is due? or are you just doing it preventatively?
I'm doing it a bit early. I think the maintenance schedule says 90k miles, I'm at 75k. I prefer to do these a little early since the time I encountered a dohc neon that the water pump failed less than 5000 past the schedule. It ruined the belt and bent every valve. That made me gun shy on timing belts.
Well ain't that a kick in the nuts. After a unanimous endorsement of aisan parts, I went to place my order tonight and all the aisan stuff seems to have disappeared off the rockauto website. I thought maybe they just sold out of the kits, but they dont have the belts alone either. Weird.
After checking around i found out my local napa sells the aisan brand, so I was able to get the kit from them. They were higher, but they have a sale going on where if you order three things you get 20% off. That put my price at about the same as RA part and shipping. Plus i get the bonus of keeping my business local, which is nice.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to gearheadmb :
OEM Tools (Autozone) sells a five pound 19mm crank bolt socket that makes a complete joke of it. You can sit there rattling the bolt with an impact and regular socket until you are blue in the face. Put the heavy socket on and BAP it loosens up. Would never have believed it if I didn't see for myself.
I should have listened from the beginning. I figured my old snap on impact would still have enough gumption that I wouldn't need the special socket. Nope, didn't budge. I bought the autzone heavy socket and it zipped it right out. I dont understand this voodoo, but I like it.
Those heavy sockets are like magic!
I'm other news, the Aisin kits are back in stock for the first time in about 5 months at Rock Auto. I just snagged one this week for my wife's Pilot. I try to only buy these kits from Rock Auto, as there are a lot of counterfeits out there on places like eBay and Amazon (although most of the counterfeit kits advertise as OEM parts).
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