How can I make my car faster (Miata content)?

I have a 95 Miata that I use for autocross and track events. It's a 1.8L with the factory torsen. I run locally in the STR class for autocross, but classing isn't of huge importance to me because I'm not competing nationally. I've done track days at Lime Rock and Thompson Speedway (2 each) and would like to try more tracks next year. This is the 3rd year that I've been racing the car and so far I've done the following modifications, but I would still like to make the car faster (if possible):

Hardtop (softtop removed)

Flyin Miata Xxtreme Sport Pack Suspension (Sway bars and coilovers)

Racing Beat endlinks and swaybar brace blocks

HP+ brake pads

15X8 wheels with 205 RE71Rs

Performance Alignment

Racing Beat Intake

Racing Beat Header

Header Heat Shield

Flyin Miata Cat and Cat-Back

R-Package Lips

I plan to add a rollbar to open the door to more track day clubs. In addition, I have a budget of $2,000 (MAX) to make the car faster, but I'm no sure what to do at this point. I'm thinking about going to the stiffer Flyin Miata track springs but I feel like I've covered all of the basics. What do you recommend? I drive the car to all events (I don't have a way to tow it) and I do NOT want to change tires every time I get to an event, so don't tell me to add race tires. Other than that, I'm all ears.

Turbo?
Supercharge?
V8 Swap?

What is lacking? I know driver improvement is the best way to go fsster. Next would be tires and suspension.

Horsepower should be very last.

What is your laptime around lrp?

http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/04/the-miata-you-wish-you-built/

If not making more hp, another way to go fast is to slow less.
Q: What is causing you to slow?
A: slow to turn or brake.

Better handling will mean that you can go through corners faster (less slow.)
Improvements in handling could be larger tires that give more contact patch.
Stiffer Springs too.

A bigger brake kit could also decrease the distance needed to slow. Since you can stop quicker you can stay on the gas pedal longer.

Maybe most important, tighten the nut that holds on the steering wheel. That is, improve your driving through a combination of education and seat time.
If you spent that $2k on more events rather than items, could you be faster?

How heavy are your wheels? Pretty much all you can do for noticeable more power is forced induction or engine swap as already stated...hard to build good cheap na power

unk577 wrote: http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/04/the-miata-you-wish-you-built/

While this is very cool I can't see the full swap coming in for $2,000.

OP, I have about the same setup going and it's tough, all the "low hanging fruit" has already been addressed between Mazda doing such a good job at the factory and what you've done to tune it up.

You're tracking your car, good. But you know that the factory hardtop will come apart like paper mache' in a rollover so get the bar now.

Next up is the flywheel and clutch. Reduce the weight here and your car will sing to redline with much more abandon.

Speaking of weight, every pound out of the car is a pound less you have to get up to speed and slow down again. Lighter seats, strip out the trunk, lose the AC, whatever you feel you can do without.

If you're running STR you can get wider tires so when your current shoes are done get 225/45 15 and get a bit more rubber on the road.

Speaking of weight, the driver counts also. I've seen a lot of guys looking for wheels 1 pound lighter or a battery 10 pounds lighter. Meanwhile, they're carrying 50-100 lbs. extra on their body.

Bar, seats and 6+ point restraints should be seems as a complete system. Also, know that most HPDE programs require equal protection for the instructor, so don't blow your budget on a great driver's seat and leave the passenger stock. Otherwise, practice, practice, practice. Do as many track days as you can. To fit more in the budget, see if any near you do "worker credits" which are often a two for one deal (work two events, run one free).

And the seat and belt will make you faster, since you won't need to brace yourself :)

Roll bar, racing seat(s) and harness(es), race springs. Megasquirt if you have enough left.

Consider better brake pads too.

Agreed on the harnesses and seats. Go for 225/45-15 Rivals as well, you can keep the 15x8s if you want. Ducting to the brakes is affordable to DIY. Get the track springs for the V-Maxx.

Play with aero. A front splitter under that air dam won't help for autox, but it will help both straight line speed and cornering speed. Look into a Supermiata style rear spoiler as well.

Handling is where the bang for the buck is. Power is more expensive.

CrashDummy wrote: ... 15X8 wheels with 205 RE71Rs ... I do NOT want to change tires every time I get to an event, so don't tell me to add race tires.

205 tires seem small for an 8" wide wheel. Going with a wider tire will get more traction for faster cornering. A 225/45 tire will win you ~0.8" tread width per side. There's a few different "extreme performance summer" tires on Tire Rack in that size, including the G-Force Rival S Keith mentioned.

-- Pete

205 is perfect on an 8. 225 perfect on a 9. I wouldnt expect much if any improvement going to a 225 rival on current wheels vs the arguably better tire in a 205 he's running now.

Swank Force One wrote: Roll bar, racing seat(s) and harness(es), race springs. Megasquirt if you have enough left. Consider better brake pads too.

This. Roll bar first. Upgrade brakes, Megasquirt, lighter clutch/flywheel, and race Springs, seats+harnesses. That should eat up your $2k pretty quick.

I disagree on the MS. It's a hassle and a significant cost for a fairly low payback. 10 hp is great, but it's going to pale against aero or grip improvements for the same money.

225 on an 8" is faster than a 205 on an 8", assuming equal rubber. But a 225 on a 9" is faster yet.

I would rethink your comment about tires. I rented a Spec Miata for the last Club Trials event I went to and that came with slick-ish tires (I think something like R1Rs shaved/worn to slicks). Compared to my MR2 on BFG Rivals I ended up being over 5s/lap faster around Thunderhill West. Most of it was having tires that allowed me to carry more speed in the corners, with a smaller part of it being that I'm more comfortable driving a Miata (or RX7/8) harder than the MR2.

I'd forget about the 'squirt unless you're doing any sort of forced induction. Get a good rollbar and got seats with good mounts. The latter is often a tad neglected.

At that point I'd work on the lose nut behind the wheel. While I like making the car faster, instructing other drivers and having an instructor myself made the biggest difference.

In reply to BoxheadTim:

Oh, without a doubt the cheapest and easiest way to make his car faster would be to buy a set of take off Rcomps (SM7 Hoosiers $250 for all 4).

At my last track day I was faster than my friends and it was clearly due to my "cheater slicks" as one called them.

But the OP said he didn't want to swap tires so it's left to the other options.