I have a radiator with inch and 3/8" inlet and outlet. I need to go from 1.5" (38mm) to this magical 1.375" size. I can't find any reducers or adapters. Can I just use brass piping? All aluminum engine, aluminum radiator.
I have a radiator with inch and 3/8" inlet and outlet. I need to go from 1.5" (38mm) to this magical 1.375" size. I can't find any reducers or adapters. Can I just use brass piping? All aluminum engine, aluminum radiator.
Depending on what hose you get, it might make the size change in the hose.
https://www.siliconeintakes.com/intake-pipe-reducer/pipe-reducer-p-123.html
One of these, then a 1.375 straight coupler, then 1.375 hose the rest of the way?
Sold for intakes, but the specs say it's good to 400F, 50psi, and compatible with coolant.
The unit above has no hose barbs to keep it from slipping off DO NOT DO THIS. I've seen to many people burned at the track when car comes in hot and 5 min later burst a hot hose all over some poor souls working on another section of the car ends up with nasty 2deg burns. check a plumbing supply shop like FW webb or whos in your area you need a barb.
Tough one ain't it. I spent near 30mins searching for something. I think 44dwarf is right, I'll have to go to a hardware store or plumbing supply. Is plumbing stuff sturdy enough? Psi and temp wise? And is copper an issue with everything else being aluminum?
Copper should be fine. My Jeep left the factory with an iron engine, aluminum rad and copper heater core, no issues.
I went to the auto parts store and they let me rummage among radiator hoses in the back. I can almost guarantee you'll find something that fits. There are a lot of "two size" radiator hoses, in all manner of configurations.
Some of the fancy chrome flex radiator hoses come with a variety of rubber bushings to accommodate different size hose barbs.
Jags That Run has just what you are looking for.
You can also cut off the inlet on the radiator and weld on a new one.
What Keith said.
An eighth of an inch isn't very much difference for nice new hose to adapt to. It might clamp down just fine.
What Streetwiseguy said.
I have made adaptors by welding two pieces of exhaust tubing together. My favorite was when I took the water outlet out of a Chevy GenIII water pump (they just press in, and can be twisted right back out) and used it as half of an adaptor. I think the other half was some leftover header tubing or something. I needed to go from LS water pump size to gigantic truck radiator size. I welded a bracket to it to hold it in place since the hose ended up being about four feet long and overhung from one side of the engine bay to the other with very little wiggle room between Moving Items. Worked real slick.
You can see it there, all painted shiny black.
44Dwarf wrote: The unit above has no hose barbs to keep it from slipping off DO NOT DO THIS. I've seen to many people burned at the track when car comes in hot and 5 min later burst a hot hose all over some poor souls working on another section of the car ends up with nasty 2deg burns. check a plumbing supply shop like FW webb or whos in your area you need a barb.
Huh? The barbs go on the pipes, not on the hoses. The unit I linked is a hose.
1.375" outlet on radiator, presumably has a barb. coupler above goes on that, now you have a 1.5" hose.
Get a normal 1.5" to 1.5" radiator hose joiner with barbs on both ends, something like this:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Straight-Aluminum-Hose-Connectors-6-Inch,8936.html
Put that into the silicone adapter, now you have a 1.5" barbed outlet and can run normal 1.5" hose between that and the engine.
Welding works too, if you've got the tools & skill.
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