How do you guys keep stud-style shocks from rotating?

'95 F150... Can't figure out a way to not crush the shock - which is fine when removing old one, not so good when installing new ones.

They normally have a flat spot at the top of the stud that you can put a wrench on.

2135Ti.

Impact is great for removal, not recommended for installation - risk of spinning the piston in the shock and damaging the seals and valves.

This is the correct tool: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-15954-lisle-20400.aspx

(one version of many)

Wrap a leather belt around it and then use slip joint pliers on the belt. Or you can use a strap wrench. Same way we tighten up chrome plated piping.

Mine have a hex at the top of the threads but if they didn't, I'd thumb the nut on and then put two more thin nuts on the top and lock them together to make a wrench fixture.

clamp a vise grip on the flat part on the top of the stud and use either a distributor wrench or crowfoot to tighten the nut..

Ian F wrote: Impact is great for removal, not recommended for installation - risk of spinning the piston in the shock and damaging the seals and valves.

I've had that happen exactly never.

I can't see using an impact to remove a shock. The only way that works is to put a 3' extension on the socket and break the stud off.

Knurled wrote: I've had that happen exactly never. I can't see using an impact to remove a shock. The only way that works is to put a 3' extension on the socket and break the stud off.

I have. Fortunately you don't work on my cars.

Idea, split a nut with a hacksaw, clamp it over the shaft with vise grips.

Strap wrench?

Typically when taking them off for replacement I grab the shaft or the metal dust boot with Vise Grips, that is because they will wind up in the metal recycle. When installing I grab the tip (that's what she said) and hold it with an open end wrench. If I plan to reuse them, I use two wrenches to loosen the locknut then hold it with the open end wrench.

If the nut is seized or rusted I cut the damn thing. There ain't no point in messing around with it. Cut through the top rubber with the weapon of choice and get on down the road.

"Strap wrench?"

https://www.google.com/#q=strap+wrench

If there isn't a hex top to the strut rod, I'll cover the rod with a rag and use a vice-grips. I try to find a spot high enough up on the rod that the suspension is unlikely to ever pass back down into the body of the strut.

If there's a hex at the top of the rod, there are an assortment of specialty tools to hold them while you loose the but. I use a spark plug socket on the strut but with a wrench on the spark plug socket and then use a quarter inch socket with an extension to pass through the end of the spark plug socket so I can hold the rod still while turning the spark plug wrench.

I leave to bottom out (unmounted) then zip the nut down with a quick hit of the impact gun just to run it close to the rubber then finish off with a wrench on the flats and a box wrench on the nut.