I start with the most important part of the design, typically tire choice, wheels, suspension geometry, steering, wheel base, and track. That fixes the inner suspension pick up points, but those points have to play nice with nonnegotiable items such as the drivetrain, driver, and fuel tank. From there on, where the tubes go is more dictated by proper geometry, required access, ergonomics, and clearances. Any questions?
The above worked well for designing/building both Kimini and Midlana.
chandler said:Sonic said:There's usually a fair amount of alcohol and dilutions of grandeur involved.
I like your spelling, I think it may be more accurate.
While that was an autocorrect, it was totally appropriate.
1) Start
2) Give up when I realize I don't have the skill to complete
2a) Give up when I realize it'll be more money than I expected and cut my losses
I have spent hours and hours in junkyards with a tape measure. Combined with more hours searching the internet for technical drawings. I spend so much time working out fitment of projects I don't even want. Most never get past that stage but often I'm more interested in "can it be done" than "do I want to do it." Picking an engine donor for my Sonderklasse has been like that. Stupid engine bay design....
I probably don't do it as well as I could, and I am trying to minimize my past mistakes of analysis paralysis followed by massive scope creep, hoping to avoid being a decade and five figures into the project, still nowhere near done, and finding that the goals I set ten years ago are not particularly relevant anymore!
If the project isn't running, the first steps are a careful check over and troubleshooting. If it is running, a careful check over and cautious test driving are the first steps. Tires, brakes, fueling, battery/electrical/wiring are the highest priority. A basic check and replacement of all fluids is often called for, along with dealing with any fluid leaks. Suspension/chassis/steering wear is not too far behind, and the rest can be tackled once it is safely running and riding/driving.
From there, I try to assess what bothers me about the vehicle, or what I wish it would do better, and use that to guide my planning for future repairs and upgrades.
I like doing internet research, but I take most it with a grain of saltshaker. The tough part about it is that Joe Q Internet might have a completely different set of priorities than me. There can be really useful tips like, "XYZ ground is known to be dodgy and can result in hard-to-diagnose issues" and then there is also the dubious advice like "you gotta get XYZ brand/model of performance part, it is the best" or "ZOMG, check out this crazy DIY performance/upgrade hack!" that gets passed around until it approaches fact, but isn't backed up by much if any objective testing, and may have berkeley all to do with my personal goals for the vehicle. I try to use internet research to add items to check to my list, and to help me narrow down upgrade options to research further.
I love finding stock parts from another vehicle that provide an upgrade for my application, and will spend hours on the internet chasing down possible parts-bin cross-compatibility.
Finally, I *try* to take a systems approach to things. I may not always do it really well, but if I am happy with moderate-grip tires, I don't need to go nuts with huge brakes and heim joints and hard bushings everywhere in the suspension. If my engine tuning plans are aimed somewhere north of the moon, I better also consider driveline upgrades, bigger tires, chassis reinforcement, etc.
Each time I approach one, its more planned.
Right now if I were approaching a build it would be:
1) Define objective. What class is it competing in, what are the performance metrics, etc. Ballpark a cost. If I am ok with this, proceed to next step.
2) Target the right vehicle. Purchase. Test on street. Daily it for a while to make sure there are no issues.
3) First round of modifications/setup. Test at event.
4) Tweak and repeat. Add more modifications as required.
If I were doing a $2000 build, I would probably aim a lot lower than most people here (esp, the experienced superstars). Whatever I was building I would target having it done in ~March or April so I have an entire autox season to work out the kinks, but its likely my build would be much closer to stock/a known recipie so that kinks are a lot less likely as well.
In general, this is the order:
Make it safe, Make it reliable, Make it fast
I don't really have anything to add that hasn't been said already.
My vehicles are my "artistic expression;" I have a very specific vision of what I want the vehicle to be and to look like. I let my subconscious chug away on details behind the scenes, and every so often my head comes up with a nugget of awesome.
I highly recommend doing as much research as you can before you do anything. Know what to look for, know what the pitfalls are. If there is an "easy button" that others have paved before you, do that. Trust me.
For something significant, don't start -anything- until you have -everything- with you. You end up "painting yourself into a corner" if the parts you got years ago don't play with the parts you picked up last week.
With each subsequent project I've taken on, it gets easier: I recognize the potential "painted corners" a lot sooner, and can avoid them better.
Not everybody can plan a project. My "engineering" pales in comparison to that of an engineer, but my "death trap" is still better than some people's "awesome."
Just get in there - you'll figure it out.
In reply to dean1484 :
Most race cars in the 50's and 60's were laid out based on chalk lines on the floor. Including a lot of famous cars like Cooper, Lister, Maserati, Indy cars Dragsters and Land speed record cars.
Following their examples I lay out the parts and build the frame around those. If I'm using a version of stock suspension, I'll tack up the suspension links so the geometry works out and then run the frame rails based off that. Mounting engine and transmission is simple.
If I'm using my own suspension pieces I'll figure out where they need to be based on other things, like steering rack.
I don't need every piece because some things like sway bars can be put where they work best and links run or pickup points created.
The first thing I do is buy the frame material. Plus specialized pieces. I always shop the recycling, scrap metal, surplus wholesalers first. If I can't find it first time I'll start going back and checking. I've waited for months to get what I want at prices I'm willing to pay. Only rarely do I buy from metal dealers.
My MGuar is a perfect example. First I'll buy the metal for a chassis table. I want the chassis to be true and straight. Doing it on the floor isn't the way to achieve that. Once that's built I'll lay out the parts I'll be using. Wheels, suspension, engine trans rear end etc. I'll tack locator brackets to hold everything in place, then start running chassis tubes. I prefer square tubing. While round looks racier it's much weaker. Plus it stays where you set it, it doesn't roll off the table. And ( this is a big one ) you don't need to fish mouth everything. That alone saves countless hours and waste.
ProDarwin said:In general, this is the order:
Make it safe, Make it reliable, Make it fast
My projects usually start with "Well, let's get this to run." I'm usually building a hooptie rescue and not worrying about making it fast, I just want it to work.
So according to ProDarwin's list, I stop at step two. The one project I saw through to step three reverted BACK to step two for a while while I figured out the tuning/mods.
For the next project I get, I plan to have a better starting platform- eg. one that's currently running and drivable.
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