My Swift AC compressor is shot, according to my regular shop. They want an absolutely stupid amount of money to replace. How hard is it to buy and install a replacement?
My Swift AC compressor is shot, according to my regular shop. They want an absolutely stupid amount of money to replace. How hard is it to buy and install a replacement?
Replacing the compressor itself is no harder than changing an alternator. The problem is the refrigerant.
Is the system R12 or R134a? Due to EPA laws their quote probably includes recapturing the old refrigerant which you need special AC tools to do, along with a full recharge.
It’s easy. Buy a new drier and rent a vacuum pump.
I'm told there's another part that is essential to replace with the compressor (condenser? evaporator?). I checked car-part.com and while the used compressors are fairly cheap I don't think the savings justifies not getting a new one. I checked YT and can't find a video specific to that model. Any ideas what part they're talking about?
Dryer, like grover mentioned
It’s the receiver / dryer that you have to replace.
If it’s an old R12 system, you theoretically need to replace all the hoses and seals (maybe why the quote was so high), unless you re-charge with R12 (which can be pricey) but you should be able to get away with putting in 134 or a blend. It been done many times (I did it), but there might be a slight reduction in performance.
If the compressor grenades, there will be debris in the lines and condenser that will nuke the new compressor in not flushed out.
CJ said:If the compressor grenades, there will be debris in the lines and condenser that will nuke the new compressor in not flushed out.
Flushing is done with liquid or compressed air?
Flushing is done with a liquid. There is special A/C flush liquid you can used followed by pressurized air. It doesn't need to be A/C flush, but do your homework on the fluid you use. It has to have a vapor pressure that is higher than the amount of vacuum you put on it to suck it down. (so it boils)
I don't flush evaporators. They flow primarily vapor and it's unlikely that they are clogged since they are the first thing after the orifice/expansion valve. It doesn't give much benefit to flush it, and it's very difficult to get all the flush stuff out of it.
Definitely get a kit, not just a compressor. They're cheap on Rock Auto. It will have the receiver/dryer, orifice/expansion, oil, and compressor. If you have an R12 system, it is worth the money to get an R134 compatible compressor and the correct expansion valve. Any money you spend on the conversion will be nothing compared to the cost of R12 freon.
aircooled said:It’s the receiver / dryer that you have to replace.
If it’s an old R12 system, you theoretically need to replace all the hoses and seals (maybe why the quote was so high), unless you re-charge with R12 (which can be pricey) but you should be able to get away with putting in 134 or a blend. It been done many times (I did it), but there might be a slight reduction in performance.
I'll echo this. I have done a few quick and dirty "conversions" where I had a shop reclaim the R12, then I vacuumed and refilled with R134. The big difference is that 134 is less volatile (ozone layer and all) and it takes a larger pressure differential to get it to evaporate. An R12 compressor and system isn't set up for it and it will cool... just not very well. And it will eat the seals faster.
A "real" 134 conversion would require viton (is that right?) O-rings and seals, the proper/compatible oil, and the correct expansion valve. Pretty much any compressor will work, but R134 compressors already have the compatible seals and they were assembled with the correct lube for the type of freon.
In reply to CJ :
^this. I don't know the proper way to flush the system, or if it's even possible to effectively flush certain parts like the evaporator core, but I do know that if the compressor failure mode is one that leaves debris in the system it can kill a new compressor within days.
Ideally you want a new expansion valve/orifice tube in addition to the filter/dryer.
Dont have a clue about what is in this stuff, but dont think I would consider changing our a compressor without using something like this - flush.
I used to buy just enough to fix what was broke. I'm old and my time and my back are worth more than that now. I try to do anything that will help make sure I don't have to do it again now.
Edit - At appears that after 1993 the Swift used 134a refrigerant.
Just for my own reference, what is "an absolute stupid amount of money"?
Curtis, My a/c quit last week also. It was an Auto Zone kit that I put in (2015) 3 full summers and 2 half summers. I used air to blow it out but not a flush kit. The failure was run and cool, stop, run and cool, stop, and finally nothing. It has the correct Freon charge. The clutch is really dusty. Is there any chance that this is just a clutch failure? 2005 Ford Focus Sorry to butt in.... Edit: I can turn the compressor by hand, feels smooth.
Do yourself a favor and buy high quality parts. Maybe even expensive new OEM parts. This is not a job you want to be doing again in a year because the Pep Boys rebuilt compressor that only cost 100 bucks was a POS that lasted just a little longer than the warranty period.
Keep in mind, a lot of the condensers can't be flushed. The passages are too small to flush the trash through the system. Most compressor replacements will require the condenser to be replaced for the warranty to be valid.
Streetwiseguy said:Just for my own reference, what is "an absolute stupid amount of money"?
$1500
That... is excessive. Assuming the compressor doesn't cost like $900. 
Yeah, that pretty lots. Trying to buy Suzuki parts around my part of the world is getting a bit Saab-like, so maybe that's contributing
Or, it's a PFO estimate.
NermalSnert said:Curtis, My a/c quit last week also. It was an Auto Zone kit that I put in (2015) 3 full summers and 2 half summers. I used air to blow it out but not a flush kit. The failure was run and cool, stop, run and cool, stop, and finally nothing. It has the correct Freon charge. The clutch is really dusty. Is there any chance that this is just a clutch failure? 2005 Ford Focus Sorry to butt in.... Edit: I can turn the compressor by hand, feels smooth.
I would definitely check the clutch first. Turn it on and watch it. If it clicks, but the center isn't spinning, then bingo.
If that isn't the problem, check the charge. If it's low, what happens is it will kick on and suck the low side down to where it trips the switch and you fast-cycle. As it continues to leak it won't even try to kick on.
stroker said:Streetwiseguy said:Just for my own reference, what is "an absolute stupid amount of money"?
$1500
That's actually not too far off par for a shop. I frequently did them in the neighborhood of $1300 at our shop. Plenty of labor mixed in. My first A/C kit, I realized that I could buy the manifold, the vacuum pump, and the kit, and do it for way less than a shop. They're cheap at HF... I think $40 some for the manifold and $68 for the pump.
Depending on the car, however, I still sometimes let a shop do it. My Impala SS is a PITA because the compressor sits immediately in front of the motor mount. Factory manual suggests removing the mount and lifting the engine.
Curtis said:NermalSnert said:Curtis, My a/c quit last week also. It was an Auto Zone kit that I put in (2015) 3 full summers and 2 half summers. I used air to blow it out but not a flush kit. The failure was run and cool, stop, run and cool, stop, and finally nothing. It has the correct Freon charge. The clutch is really dusty. Is there any chance that this is just a clutch failure? 2005 Ford Focus Sorry to butt in.... Edit: I can turn the compressor by hand, feels smooth.
I would definitely check the clutch first. Turn it on and watch it. If it clicks, but the center isn't spinning, then bingo.
If that isn't the problem, check the charge. If it's low, what happens is it will kick on and suck the low side down to where it trips the switch and you fast-cycle. As it continues to leak it won't even try to kick on.
The shop is claiming to have run some refrigerant with dye through it and say the compressor is leaking in multiple spots. I trust them on that so I'm assuming the compressor is toast. If it's leaking as a result of worn metal that implies to me that the system is contaminated and probably needs the full flush treatment.
Thanks Curtis!
Make sure you clean the fittings from any dirt,oil to about 10 inches up the hoses, and really clean the area around the old pump before removing it. Lessens the chance of getting dirt or anything into the system
RockAuto has an AC Delco reman with clutch for only $256, which seems reasonable for a name brand unit. Condenser is not listed however, which seems odd.
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