Zombie thread.... But for those wondering: place sealant on. Wait an hour to tack, torque bolts down LIGHTLY. Wait to dry. THEN torque to spec. That's per the BGB.
Zombie thread.... But for those wondering: place sealant on. Wait an hour to tack, torque bolts down LIGHTLY. Wait to dry. THEN torque to spec. That's per the BGB.
In reply to Metro Man:
That would make a good post in the "tech tips" forum.
Yeah, good tip on the age / date thing. I suspect most of mine is bad, I will have to take a look.
DrBoost wrote:alfadriver wrote: When I use the RTV, I also put a 1mm bead down prior to what Doc does. Works like a charm- especially since very little of it really squeezes out. Although, I've also done a 20 min cure, so that it will partially set, then squeeze tight. EThat's what I do. Let it 'skin over' before mating the parts. Never let me down either. It does sound like too much was used.
Why would you want it to skin over? Put it on BEFORE it skins over so it can adhere to the other mating surface.
I found out recently that Right Stuff isn't silicone, it is urethane.
Wow...old thread. I've done this many times before and since. It was just a bad tube. I still use Permatex products with good results. OEM Japanese grey stuff (Hondabond) is still what I prefer.
I would use the sealant mfg's recommendations over the factory shop manual since these cars are are 25 years old at this point.
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