turboswede wrote: I used Alumiweld to make the mounting bracket for the EDIS ignition pickup on my 924: Hardest part was clamping it together and keeping enough heat in it. The steel vise would wick away the heat and if I used a wood vise, it would burn so I had to move fast.
That is the stuff, check out Ace Hardware, I think that is where I got it years ago, different name, same stuff.
Steve
lrrs wrote:turboswede wrote: I used Alumiweld to make the mounting bracket for the EDIS ignition pickup on my 924: Hardest part was clamping it together and keeping enough heat in it. The steel vise would wick away the heat and if I used a wood vise, it would burn so I had to move fast.That is the stuff, check out Ace Hardware, I think that is where I got it years ago, different name, same stuff. Steve
Got mine at Harbor Freight
Any welding or brazing will require the aluminium to be CLEAN. Degrease, stainless steel wire brush(that is new or has only been used on aluminium)and then use a new scoth brite pad.
When you are done, ship them to me for a wrinkle-finish powder coat. That should hide minor imperfections? How long are they?
alfadriver wrote: On a tangent, I've seen those made for TV commercials about Alumiweld, which looks to be basically aluminum solder or braze- is the aluminum brazing stuff that is posted about the same thing? This is alumiweld- http://www.alumiweld.com/ I've NEVER tried it, not vouching for it- etc. still wondering what the heck it even is.
Tried that stuff to fix some old small block Mopar M/T covers that had some broken fins. Couldn't get enough heat in the cast cover for the stuff to stick.
Another plus Juan for the brazing trick...if you can clamp the cover onto a flat plate of steel or copper, and set a steel straight edge along the edge to be repaired, you can fill in the notches, and theoretically there will be no need to mill the mating surface flat. The rod material won't stick to the steel. Pre-cleaning the aluminum, and pre heating in an oven will help.
patgizz wrote: Seller offered a partial refund and told me he knew the notches were there, and they were cut 20 years ago so the covers could be pulled off with the blower in place. I am running the covers because i'm going for a certain period look that i've never done before, and i always wanted to pop my hood and see a big block with m/t valve covers. These are originals, not the current reproductions. That's cool in my book. Everyone and their brother runs fabricated aluminum covers now. Speedway has breathers to fit the hole spacing..... $79.95 each. No thanks.
Out of curiosity I just checked with one of my warehouses on the re-released ones. If you decide to throw in the towel on the ebay ones, new ones to your door run around $157.
FYI, I get wanting to save the originals. There is something cooler about using a 20-40 year old part on a new build.
yeah, these with the $10 refund from the seller are a $118 cheaper option, and this still has the possibility to end up a challenge car as so far the most expensive part, the car itself, has been recouped down to $700 from $1100 and there are some more big $ race parts that came with it getting sold at the swap meet next month. expectation is that i'll have around 300 in the rolling car, $700 in motor, and a grand to make transmission, steering box, brake lines, and fuel system work. lots has been found in garbage, recycled, etc...
In reply to patgizz:
Ah, I forgot about using this in the Challenge. In that case go out to the garage and find some scrap aluminum stock then go back to my first post. 
Maybe grab up a set of aluminum spacers for when tall rocker are used and JB Weld them to the bottoms of the rocker covers?
I know that it sounds a bit Mickey Mouse at first, but it would solve everything and look kinda cool with black crinkle covers, an aluminum spacer, and a Chevy Orange head all sandwiched together. Top it off with a pair of MT or Edelbrock breathers and done.
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