So, over the weekend I discovered that the rust under the plastic fender cover on the QX4 was far worse than I expected and as a result I had to cut out a lot of the metal to get back to the point that I could paint it and hope to slow the deterioration of the SUV's body. The good thing, aesthetically at least, is that almost off of what had to to be cut out will be covered by the plastic fender cover. But not all of it- and what isn't is in the back of the door jamb for the back door and I don't like the idea of just leaving the cut sheet metal edge exposed even if it is ground down to not be sharp and further dulled by painting. So, I need to figure out how to cover/fill this in gap. I'm not the biggest fan of bondo/body filler- but is this the appropriate place to use it? First picture is without the fender cover in place, second shows what it will look like with it installed.
Thoughts? Thanks!
Jb weld a chunk of galvanized steel in place and spray paint black after liberally using seam sealer
Can you find a corresponding piece on a QX4 or Pathfinder at a wrecking yard that you could patch in? Those plastic fender flares on that model were terrible for holding the dirt and grime. Look for a Pathfinder that was a “lesser model” than the SE or LE as they didn’t have the flares and didn’t rust nearly as bad...
Good luck...
Gordon
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Actually, I have some aluminum sheet that I might be able to shape a bit more easily... if I'm using JB Weld/seam sealer aluminum should be usable (vs. needing to be steel to actually weld it).
In reply to ggarrard :
I know there are some around. There's a QX4 up in one of the lots I was in a few weeks back that I almost grabbed the running boards from because I NEVER see them where they aren't rusted completely out. That may be a plan for longer term, but I'm not the most confident in being able to match up the old and new and successfully weld it in properly.
The problem is that if you don't replace the outer skin, a lot of dirt & water is going to get between the two layers and sit there. That patch panel doesn't look too hard to get "good enough," so if you don't have a welder handy, no worries, I'd just slide it in behind and use Silaprene (body adhesive) with a rivet or two.
If the proper body adhesive isn't worth it, I've heard of people using generic Liquid Nails with good results, but for my Miata body repairs I sprung for the "good stuff."
The best way I've made templates to trim replacement panels is to wrap the cut out area with paper and use a crayon/large pencil to do a rubbing. Then just shift that edge out enough to get behind the cut.
In reply to Streetwiseguy :
I have at most one of those (I don't have a MIG, just a HF wire welder and a small stick welder) handy and I would go through more steel than there likely is on the entire QX4 trying to form the fenders properly on an English wheel. I've seen like 2 people who could really use on well and both had been building and repairing aircraft for almost as long as I've been alive.
Planning on trekking up to Cinci on Friday (the second of my Fridays off in a row that will be spent up in the junkyards... something I generally like, but i'd also like to actually be working on the cars) to try and find one that's un-rusted enough to cut out the sections I need.
In reply to Ashyukun (Robert) :
Or,
Spend the dough on a professional level body shop panel adhesive and gun, and glue your little brains out.Trim a nice, symmetrical patch out of this (I fear
imaginary) rust free Datsun you are going to find, trim up your car, drill a bunch of evenly spaced holes for pop rivets, paste it together and rivet. Coat with some sort of paintlike substance and hit the road.
As my first aside, never open a can of worms like a small rust bubble unless you are armed for combat. 'Taint no such thing as a minor rust bubble.
Second, as to the fabrication and repair, my Father used to say, :"You'll never learn any younger."
Edit: If you do buy panel adhesive, buy one that will harden. There are some that never harden in air, and they are a royal pain in the butt when there is goo smearing on your fresh repair four days later. Fusor 208B will harden, I'm pretty sure. 108B stays gooey. I think. Check with your supplier.
In reply to Streetwiseguy :
I'll handle tracking down the replacement metal first and then worry about how exactly to patch it in. Even if I can just find one with a lot LESS rust, I can patch that in to mine and then just have to get creative for the rest. I have panel adhesive that I picked up when I was figuring I'd need to do something like this with the El Camino years back, but I don't know what kind it is. I'm planning on cutting a lot larger panel than I actually need so I can practice with the welder and find the best settings to use on it.
