That is all.
That is all.
We took them apart on one of the LeMons cars and drilled out the female threads. It works great and isn't a nightmare to change pads at the track. Use this tip at your own risk...
Once I threw away that stupid cube or flat puck special (ed) tool, screw-in calipers aren't too bad. 
What really gets me is that you have to screw-in CW on one side and CCW on the other side. Why couldn't it be CW on both side?
Not sure which car you guys are talking about. Saturns have screw in rear calipers, you can grab them and turn them with needle nose pliers pretty easily. Its CW on both sides.
I don't find them that bad. Much better than having a drum e-brake setup under the rotor.
fanfoy wrote: What really gets me is that you have to screw-in CW on one side and CCW on the other side. Why couldn't it be CW on both side?
I've only encountered that once, on I think an early 80s GM. Everything else in the world goes in righty-tighty.
Except Miatas, which have a "why doesn't EVERYONE do that??" method.
If you haven't been so graced as to deal with Miata rear calipers: You remove a plug on the back of the caliper, insert an Allen socket, twist it. Done.
I can't stand them either. If there's a better tool for them than the cube, someone let me know. The location of the caliper bracket on the MR2 made it about impossible to get a ratchet or extension on the cube...I was not pleased.
i used to use a c clamp and channel locks on my lumina. little pressure, turn piston, little more, etc...
Will wrote: I can't stand them either. If there's a better tool for them than the cube, someone let me know.
http://www.mactools.com/ShopOnline/Product/tabid/120/productid/318720/variantid/309479/Default.aspx
Tough enough to withstand use with an 18" breaker bar... with a 3' cheater over it... I hate rear disk brakes. Rarely do the calipers outlast the pads or rotors around here. The exception seems to be late model Volkswagens, apparently when they drained out their "electricals" stats they put it all into brakes.
Knurled wrote: Except Miatas, which have a "why doesn't EVERYONE do that??" method. If you haven't been so graced as to deal with Miata rear calipers: You remove a plug on the back of the caliper, insert an Allen socket, twist it. Done.
You must not have worked on a miata that's seen winter. For me it goes: remove plug on the back of the caliper, insert an Allen socket, twist it endlessly wondering why the piston isn't moving, swear, remove knurled bit that you turn with the Allen key, realise the end is stripped, grind the bit down so there is a new knurled section at the end, try to turn the Allen key, realise it's seized, swear, heat it too much, swear, order new calipers. Thank god everybody doesn't do it that way.
Are we just talking about the e-brakes? Or just the pistons that turn to go in and out?
I'm able to do the rears on the Corrados by using a regular piston pusher on top of a 6mm hex wrench. I have to use something over the end of the wrench to get a little leverage on it, but it works.
For RX7 I made a tool by grinding down a socket and leaving 2 tabs to turn the piston. Worked like a charm!
I'm kind of glad that my Scirocco needs calipers. Updating them to to the MK4 aluminum ones. The MK1 "Super Size Me" Allen key in the piston was awful the one time I did pads and rotors on it.
mw wrote:Knurled wrote: Except Miatas, which have a "why doesn't EVERYONE do that??" method. If you haven't been so graced as to deal with Miata rear calipers: You remove a plug on the back of the caliper, insert an Allen socket, twist it. Done.You must not have worked on a miata that's seen winter. For me it goes: remove plug on the back of the caliper, insert an Allen socket, twist it endlessly wondering why the piston isn't moving, swear, remove knurled bit that you turn with the Allen key, realise the end is stripped, grind the bit down so there is a new knurled section at the end, try to turn the Allen key, realise it's seized, swear, heat it too much, swear, order new calipers. Thank god everybody doesn't do it that way.
I've never owned a miata, but have helped friends do multiple brake jobs on them.
^^ what you posted above is exactly how they went, EVERY time. Allen bolts on any are of the car that sees road salt or gunk should be banned.
btw, I've always used needlenose pliers to do twist-in calipers.
I'm pretty happy that I currently own no cars that have them, though.
I have done it all of the following ways:
Turning it with a flat head on one of the 4 cutouts. The fastest way.
With needle nose pliers.
The last resort if the above 2 methods fail due to a stubborn piston.
LOL I'll post up a pic of the contraption I made for my dad, works beautifully.
In reply to Anti-stance: I had a friends Ford Flex that I had to do the Channelocks Method on. There has to be a better way
and its awesome
Bah who wants to spend money on something like that? 
Salted Ohio roads means, "Get the right tool for the job next time dummy"
aussiesmg wrote:
For me X2 because I have the set that does both CW and CCW calipers. And since I have had the set I have never needed the one that turns the wrong way. 
Sometimes the proper tool is the best tool...
aussiesmg wrote:
this ^^^^^ $40 at HF... then you got it forever
mw wrote:Knurled wrote: Except Miatas, which have a "why doesn't EVERYONE do that??" method. If you haven't been so graced as to deal with Miata rear calipers: You remove a plug on the back of the caliper, insert an Allen socket, twist it. Done.You must not have worked on a miata that's seen winter. For me it goes: remove plug on the back of the caliper, insert an Allen socket, twist it endlessly wondering why the piston isn't moving, swear, remove knurled bit that you turn with the Allen key, realise the end is stripped, grind the bit down so there is a new knurled section at the end, try to turn the Allen key, realise it's seized, swear, heat it too much, swear, order new calipers. Thank god everybody doesn't do it that way.
^ that perfectly describes my experience with my '90 Miata ... and it was a Florida car all its life.
J
You'll need to log in to post.
