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Dashpot
Dashpot Reader
2/14/14 6:50 p.m.

In reply to docwyte:

You're not the only one. Of the few Porsche people I know, I've seen overly expensive top end jobs on low mile 964 & 993's + complete engine write-offs on a 996 (under warranty-NOT) and a 1st gen Boxster. The 1st 2 were street cars that failed way before 50K miles, and the last 2 failed at the track. The 996 warranty was denied after the dealer downloaded the ECU data & determined that "you sir, were racing" The guy showed up next season with a GT3.

Cone Junky was right on point - if you can't do your own work you're taking a big risk. Especially if you take it to the track.

Slippery
Slippery GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
2/14/14 8:55 p.m.

It was my understanding that Porsche has always been very cool about warrantying problems even when they happened on the track.

Is that not correct?

docwyte
docwyte HalfDork
2/14/14 9:18 p.m.

Even if you get the car under $20k, replacing a 996 engine isn't cheap. Doing a 3.4 swap into a Boxster may make a bit more sense as you can buy an early, base model boxster for under $10k now, but it's still a ton of money and time and you're still stuck with a motor with large issues.

I'd probably go with a car with more mileage vs less, with the thought that the higher mileage motor has proven itself to be reliable...

xflowgolf
xflowgolf Dork
2/15/14 5:51 a.m.

I really like them with these wheels:

So, consensus is that the only reason not to buy these cars at this price point (or any price point...) is out of fear of engine failure.

I understand crazy dealer engine replacement prices, but that's neither here nor there for most of this crowd.

So... say I buy in at the entry level price point and cross my fingers. There's a solid chance I'll have "a good one" and happy motoring ensues, but in spirit of "hope for the best, plan for the worst" let's say worst case happens. I bring home my $16K 911, take the wife out to show her my new car, and KERPOW the engine eats itself.

What's the GRM DIY fix? Motor swap? Subie engine? Is the answer always LS1? Used factory replacement? I'd have no shame in bastardizing it in a logical way.

chandlerGTi
chandlerGTi SuperDork
2/15/14 6:05 a.m.

My buddy has an independent Porsche shop and he declines to rebuild the 996 engines. I've seen him putting two porsche crate motors in those at god only knows what cost.

There is the renegade LS swap kit which last I looked wasn't on their website and there was one guy on pelican that swapped a 3.0 in bu I'm not seeing it now. I've been looking for one priced right for about a year now that I can putz around in till it blows.

xflowgolf
xflowgolf Dork
2/15/14 6:12 a.m.

the more I read the more I think the problem (though legitimate) is blown out of proportion by the internets, and the aircooled hatred of this car.

Threads like this one are promising: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/563937-wanna-buy-2004-996-mistake.html

mazdeuce
mazdeuce UltraDork
2/15/14 6:33 a.m.

At this point I almost wonder if it wouldn't make sense to look for one that has been driven a little bit hard and survived. It sounds like there are plenty of good ones out there, it's just finding one that will survive. Perhaps a couple of successful track days show that it's a good one?

ddavidv
ddavidv PowerDork
2/15/14 6:53 a.m.

Subaru engine solves any 911 ills (and one of my favorite build threads evah): H6 swap into 911

asoduk
asoduk Reader
2/15/14 8:37 a.m.

The IMS failure was really blown out of proportion thanks to the internet and a couple people. There was a class action lawsuit where Porsche ended up paying a lot of people to soften the blow of the engine replacement cost. In my opinion, only the lawyers won in that case.

It is pretty well documented that regular oil changes, always letting the car warm up/cool down, and not lugging the engine at low RPMs will prevent most of the bearing problems. The porous castings should have all been taken care of by now, but I wouldn't buy a really low mile garage queen. I would also probably upgrade to the LN IMS bearing on any used Porsche with the M96 engine just in case the PO liked driving in 6th gear around the neighborhood, went 15k between oil changes, used the wrong oil, and generally neglected the car.

As a funny side point, if you buy a 1st gen boxster be sure to look in the driver's side air intake. It is in the perfect spot to suck in a smoker's butts as he tosses them out the window. I've seen more than one full of cigarette butts.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
2/15/14 9:19 a.m.
TR8owner wrote: If you're thinking affordable Porsche there is always a 928. There was one advertised for $3500. "or trade for bass boat" in our local community newspaper not that long ago. But I'm sure they're not cheap to repair or restore.

The answer to that question will depend on if you are 6'2 or 5'6.

928s are seriously cramped cars. And they're not cheap to maintain, either. Timing belt service runs $2000 or so and has to be done every two years, for instance.

BoxheadTim
BoxheadTim GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
2/15/14 11:05 a.m.
chandlerGTi wrote: My buddy has an independent Porsche shop and he declines to rebuild the 996 engines. I've seen him putting two porsche crate motors in those at god only knows what cost.

IIRC the crate engine is about $15k.

BoxheadTim
BoxheadTim GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
2/15/14 11:07 a.m.
xflowgolf wrote: the more I read the more I think the problem (though legitimate) is blown out of proportion by the internets, and the aircooled hatred of this car. Threads like this one are promising: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/563937-wanna-buy-2004-996-mistake.html

They're talking about a late 996 - the earlier ones with the 3.4L are more problematic, most of the issues had been resolved when Porsche went to the water cooled 3.6.

dyintorace
dyintorace GRM+ Memberand UberDork
2/15/14 11:17 a.m.
Maroon92 wrote: I'm looking at the same era Boxsters, and I'm well familiar with the engine failures. They're getting cheap enough that an engine failure doesn't kill the deal. Swap in a 3.4 liter engine after the 2.5 blows, and you're still under 12,000 dollars in the car... I will be publishing something regarding 964 and 993 values in the very short term. I'll be sure to link it back here when I'm done.

Please do. I'd love to see the data on the values of these cars. A friend just bought a 964 with ~70k miles and it was more expensive that folks are quoting here.

dyintorace
dyintorace GRM+ Memberand UberDork
2/15/14 11:18 a.m.

The first post in this thread seems like a great deal. $16k for relatively low mileage 911? Yes, please.

wclark
wclark Reader
2/15/14 1:28 p.m.

" I remember when you could buy a 10-15 y.o. 911 for $15K "

I remember when you could buy a NEW 911 for half that.

Adrian_Thompson
Adrian_Thompson PowerDork
2/17/14 9:38 a.m.
HiTempguy wrote: Its not build quality in a sense though... its the fact that the motor will ABSOLUTELY NEED A REBUILD. And to get it done by a shop is f*&king nuts amounts of money. I am praying they depreciate just the "smallest" amount more. If I could get one for $10k with a blown motor (awd of course), I'd drop it off at the shop that GRM highlighted that does the V8 conversion. $30k awd porsche DD with LSX reliability and mpg. Win Win!

Wow, quite an impressive level of ignorance.

Every Porsche engine over the years seems to have a ‘guaranteed will blow up and cost twice what the car is worth to fix it issue’ that soon get ironed out by the aftermarket. Mid years had thermal reactor issues, SC’s had chain tensioners that died, Carrera’s had head studs that snap, 993’s had air injection port issues etc. etc.

The M96/M97 engines have the RMS and IMSB (Rear main seal and Intermediate shaft bearing). The RMS seal has been improved on and seems to be fixed and is never more than an annoyance akin to LBC’s dropping oil.

The IMSB is potential a very significant issue, but you need to look past the hysteria. No doubt, if it fails in most (but not all cases) the engine is toast. The early cars had a single row bearing through some time in mid-01, then they switched to a duel row bearing from mid 01 onwards. The single row bearing seems to have about a 1% failure rate and the duel row a 4-8% failure rate. In some places I’ve seen a blanket 5%failure. In most cases if it fails the engine is toast as the intermediate shaft flays around and bits of bearings go thrashing through the engine and destroys all sorts of things. There are at least two cars on 986 forums that are still running post failure though. One in one of the Scandinavian countries that was caught just as it failed and another in Texas. The Texas car owner rebuilt the engine himself with a new shaft purchased off e-bay. As for preventing failure there seems to be several options. There is a device called the IMS Guardian which is basically a sensor in the oil prior to the filter looking for metal contamination indicating that the bearing is failing. Some people say that’s no good and my the time it warns you it’s too last. Most people plan on replacing the bearing when the clutch needs changing as once you’ve got the trans out and clutch off it’s very little extra effort to pull the flywheel and replace the bearing while you’re in there. As far as bearings are concerned. You can get a new Porsche one, get an upgrade kit from Pelican Parts for $165, or LN Engineering do an upgrade with a ceramic bearing for $650. Some people have reverse engineered the part number and sourced their own for less than $100. There are literally dozens of DIY How too’s out there.

Why does it fail? There are lots of theories. The best I’ve seen is this. It’s a sealed roller bearing with a seal on each side. It goes in the end of the hollow shaft. Some people speculate that as the engine heats up the air inside the shaft expands and forces itself out through the seals. Once it cools and the air contracts it sucks air/oil back past the seals. Slowly over time that oil washes out the grease in the sealed bearing and it gradually fails. I don’t know if that’s true, but it at least has the rig of plausibility around it, supported by the fact that oil is often found inside the sealed shaft. One guy (the Texan who rebuilt his engine with a used shaft) has drilled two small holes 180deg apart between the two sets of teeth that drive the timing chains on the shaft so that nothing needs to be sucked past he seals. But that’s just a theory by one guy.

General consensus seems to be Change the oil at 3-5K, use the recommended grade of oil and cut the filter open and look for debris with a magnet each time.

There was also the cylinder wall ‘D’ chucking issue with the early 2.5L Boxster and 3.4 Carrera engines only, it doesn’t seem to have been an issue with the 2.7, 3.2 and 3.6L engines. IT was a casting flaw caused by the insert mold casting of the Local cylinder liners into the case. It seems to have been an early issue which caused infant mortality. I think at this point any 2.5 or 3.4L engine will have passed the danger zone, but I wouldn’t want a 5k mile garage queen. Incidentally my next door neighbor had a new 98 Boxster that suffered from this and get a new engine under warranty.

There are literally hundreds of threads out there on IMSB’s on Rennlist, Pelican parts, 6speed, 986 forums etc. etc.

oldtin
oldtin UltraDork
2/17/14 10:26 a.m.
Knurled wrote:
TR8owner wrote: If you're thinking affordable Porsche there is always a 928. There was one advertised for $3500. "or trade for bass boat" in our local community newspaper not that long ago. But I'm sure they're not cheap to repair or restore.
The answer to that question will depend on if you are 6'2 or 5'6. 928s are seriously cramped cars. And they're not cheap to maintain, either. Timing belt service runs $2000 or so and has to be done every two years, for instance.

Mrs. Oldtin has an 86 928. For the driver and front seat passenger it has plenty of space unless you need your seat fully up like a truck. I'm 5'10", with the seat all the way back I can barely reach the gas pedal. There's not a ton of storage or back seat space though and it is a pretty big car for what it is. Timing belts are 4 years or 40-50k miles. It's about $250 to do it yourself. You may need to get creative to keep costs down (i.e. blower motor is $600 - or a modified motor housing and a $100 blower motor will work just fine). That said, I would never recommend one to a non GRM type. So a boxster or 996 doesn't really scare me at all (actually my dad asked if I would help him find a boxster S for a fun car - distressed that he wants a tiptronic).

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
2/17/14 12:43 p.m.
oldtin wrote:
Knurled wrote:
TR8owner wrote: If you're thinking affordable Porsche there is always a 928. There was one advertised for $3500. "or trade for bass boat" in our local community newspaper not that long ago. But I'm sure they're not cheap to repair or restore.
The answer to that question will depend on if you are 6'2 or 5'6. 928s are seriously cramped cars. And they're not cheap to maintain, either. Timing belt service runs $2000 or so and has to be done every two years, for instance.
Mrs. Oldtin has an 86 928. For the driver and front seat passenger it has plenty of space unless you need your seat fully up like a truck. I'm 5'10", with the seat all the way back I can barely reach the gas pedal. There's not a ton of storage or back seat space though and it is a pretty big car for what it is. Timing belts are 4 years or 40-50k miles. It's about $250 to do it yourself. You may need to get creative to keep costs down (i.e. blower motor is $600 - or a modified motor housing and a $100 blower motor will work just fine). That said, I would never recommend one to a non GRM type. So a boxster or 996 doesn't really scare me at all (actually my dad asked if I would help him find a boxster S for a fun car - distressed that he wants a tiptronic).

I should clarify. There is a ton of leg room. leg room is rarely a problem in any car, really. (Unless it's a Jeep Comanche) I don't need the seat nearly all the way back and I have a 35" inseam.

I can wear a helmet and sit comfortably in an early RX-7. I can even sit comfortably and helmeted in a hardtop NA Miata. I cannot, however, sit comfortably UNhelmeted in a 928. By the time the seat is reclined enough that I don't need to cock my head over to the right, I can't reach the steering wheel anymore and the vent from the rear A/C is blowing on my ear. Plus it is hard to drive when you're more or less laying straight back.

Timing belt service can be really expensive if you, say, want to replace the belt tensioner, which is hydraulic and has a sensor/switch built in. That's almost half of the cost of doing a timing belt right there. IIRC Pelican lists it as a $750 part. Sure, you can not replace it, but... do the risks outweigh the rewards?

Mike924
Mike924 Reader
2/17/14 1:06 p.m.

The key to any car ownership, 911 (early /Late; take your pick) is Buy the best you can afford. With the new cars costing more to start, inflation as well, the 10 to 15k 911 is now the 15 to 25k 911. But any car, Porsche, BMW, Miata; Toyota; Dodge can be expensive. My father is a reputable Porsche engine man. An early Air Cooled motor rebuild can cost anywhere from 5 to 10,000 dollars. When the motor blew in my Caravan last year it was 10K to have a new motor installed about 7 to have my bad one rebuilt or a 2500 to have an unknown used one installed. (I went with the used unknown unit) but it is all the same.

If you want to buy a 996, start at the club level, PCA or POC. There are lots of helpful people out there that are more than willing to share their knowledge and help find that one car you really want.

Just my two cents.

Mike Kirby

fidelity101
fidelity101 Dork
2/17/14 1:20 p.m.

In reply to yamaha:

I smell a rallycross car candidate then...

Giant Purple Snorklewacker
Giant Purple Snorklewacker MegaDork
2/17/14 2:13 p.m.

I've seen 997s in the 30s lately. Obviously... not anywhere near $15k - but they leave behind all the engine woes I'm aware of. There are couple nice ones on ebay right now... here is an '05 with low miles. Other bonuses... no fried egg lights... more power, much better chassis/suspension out of the box.

This isn't really an S... but it's got the big brakes and looks damn clean for that money.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-Carrera-997-2005-5-911-Carrera-LOWEST-PRICED-997-WITH-LOW-MILES-AND-IN-MINT-CONDITION-/321323614293?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4ad0614055&item=321323614293&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

mw
mw Dork
2/17/14 2:46 p.m.

I bought a 1999 c2 for 16500 a few months ago. I'm taking the risk until it needs a clutch and then I'll replace the ims bearing. It has 92k kms. So far I love it. The only down side for me is that people now assume I'm really rich (I'm not). I have coworkers who drive fully loaded $50k pick up trucks making comments about how I must be getting paid more than them. I don't really care, but I wasn't expecting that.

Adrian_Thompson
Adrian_Thompson PowerDork
2/17/14 3:13 p.m.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: I've seen 997s in the 30s lately. Obviously... not anywhere near $15k - but they leave behind all the engine woes I'm aware of. There are couple nice ones on ebay right now... here is an '05 with low miles. Other bonuses... no fried egg lights... more power, much better chassis/suspension out of the box.

No, the 997 through 08 still had the same basic M96/97 engine with the IMSB. After the face lift the new engine with Direct injection has a non servicable IMS that can't be changed without splitting the case. It's too soon to know if Porsche have fixed the bearing design. They better have with it not being DIYable like the earlier ones are.

Giant Purple Snorklewacker
Giant Purple Snorklewacker MegaDork
2/17/14 3:29 p.m.
Adrian_Thompson wrote:
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: I've seen 997s in the 30s lately. Obviously... not anywhere near $15k - but they leave behind all the engine woes I'm aware of. There are couple nice ones on ebay right now... here is an '05 with low miles. Other bonuses... no fried egg lights... more power, much better chassis/suspension out of the box.
No, the 997 through 08 still had the same basic M96/97 engine with the IMSB. After the face lift the new engine with Direct injection has a non servicable IMS that can't be changed without splitting the case. It's too soon to know if Porsche have fixed the bearing design. They better have with it not being DIYable like the earlier ones are.

Good to know - I thought those issues were behind them with the 997. I guess the only safe bet is to get the GT3

93EXCivic
93EXCivic MegaDork
2/17/14 3:52 p.m.

For the same price, couldn't you get a C5 ZO6 'Vette? Seems like that would be faster, more reliable and easier to maintain.

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