AClockworkGarage
AClockworkGarage Dork
7/23/23 1:03 p.m.

I've been tasked to locate a bulkhead fitting for Zonda's heater core. The parameters of the existing components require a fitting that, despite my best searching, doesn't seem to exist. I've come up with two possible solutions but I'd really love to just buy the thing I need ready made.

What I need is a bulkhead fitting that is a male -8 AN fitting on one side and a 5/8 push on hose on the other. This doesn't seem to exist. anything 5/8 wants a -10 AN. The engine has -8 outputs and the heater core has 5/8 barb inputs.

Something like this is what I'm after. They don't need to be twinned like this. Two individual parts is acceptable.

I have two possible solutions if I cannot find the exact thing I need. Solution 1 is to run the -10 AN to 5/8 push on hose barb fitting pictured above, then throw a -10 female to -8 male adapter on the engine side. an inelegant solution that requires buying extra fittings and introducing another 2 places for leaks to develop. But it works and is all off the shelf parts.

Solution 2 is to buy a -8 AN to 1/2 hose barb fitting and a pair of 5/8 push on hose barn to NPT or whatever adapters, cutting the 1/2 inch barbs off and welding on the 5/8 barbs. This still requires buying additional adapters, but would result in the solid state part single part I desire. It would reduce the potential leaks by 33%. It would also require me to go back to my fabricator and say "I know you tasked me to solve this problem and I have solved this problem by making more work for you."

Solution 3 is making this very post and waiting for the reply "this is exactly what you need you lazy bastid" with a link to TheExactPartYouWereLookingFor.com/YouSuckAtGoogle

Thoughts, opinions, insults?

 

Noddaz
Noddaz GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
7/23/23 1:06 p.m.

Solution 2 is to buy a -8 AN to 1/2 hose barb fitting and a pair of 5/8 push on hose barn to NPT or whatever adapters, cutting the 1/2 inch barbs off and welding on the 5/8 barbs. This still requires buying additional adapters, but would result in the solid state part single part I desire. It would reduce the potential leaks by 33%. It would also require me to go back to my fabricator and say "I know you tasked me to solve this problem and I have solved this problem by making more work for you."

 

That one.

NermalSnert (Forum Supporter)
NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) HalfDork
7/23/23 2:04 p.m.

Not a solution but how about looking in the aircraft or marine parts world?

Ranger50
Ranger50 MegaDork
7/23/23 2:10 p.m.

Can the hose barb line be AN with the other end open for the other end? I would push lok the one end leaving it open on the other end with a std AN bulkhead fitting.

tester (Forum Supporter)
tester (Forum Supporter) HalfDork
7/23/23 2:12 p.m.

Are you sure about that 5/8? Is that ID? AN stuff is usually by dash -or OD. 

Datsun310Guy
Datsun310Guy MegaDork
7/23/23 3:51 p.m.

I think you need to use 2 fittings.  

There's a lot of brass Push Lok but not the jump size you need plus this isn't a bulkhead fitting.
 

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/23/23 4:54 p.m.

You can clamp the rubber hoses to -10 hose ends, with hose clamps.  Works just fine, at least it does for 3/8" fuel line vs -6 fittings.

 

I am coming up short on -8/-10 bulkhead fittings, or -8 thread/-10 hose hose ends, though.

obsolete
obsolete GRM+ Memberand Dork
7/23/23 11:47 p.m.

How hard is it to convert the engine to -10 outputs?

EvanB
EvanB GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/24/23 7:57 a.m.
AClockworkGarage said:


I have two possible solutions if I cannot find the exact thing I need. Solution 1 is to run the -10 AN to 5/8 push on hose barb fitting pictured above, then throw a -10 female to -8 male adapter on the engine side. an inelegant solution that requires buying extra fittings and introducing another 2 places for leaks to develop. But it works and is all off the shelf parts.

Just do this. AN isn't going to be prone to leaks like pipe and the extra fittings will probably be cheaper than other options by the time you figure them out. 

jfryjfry
jfryjfry SuperDork
7/24/23 9:29 a.m.

In reply to EvanB :

Agreed. You'd have to work harder to make the two pieces leak than to not.  You'll have your fittings assembled quicker than it would take Stampie to post smack about Angry. 
 

and probably less likely than the welded option to leak. 

93gsxturbo
93gsxturbo UltraDork
7/24/23 1:46 p.m.

If its a huge deal a local shop with some screw machines could whittle some out of stock for not much money and get you exactly what you need.  Pretty easy since no moving parts and all the dimensions are published standards. 

These guys list one but their website doesnt have it.

https://customfittings.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=MSJ-250-08-10*

93gsxturbo
93gsxturbo UltraDork
7/24/23 2:04 p.m.

If its a huge deal a local shop with some screw machines could whittle some out of stock for not much money and get you exactly what you need.  Pretty easy since no moving parts and all the dimensions are published standards. 

These guys list one but their website doesnt have it.

https://customfittings.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=MSJ-250-08-10*

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