I'm looking for something that I can bolt to the hub of a vehicle (instead of the wheel) and put a jack stand under so I can have the car off the ground with the suspension fully loaded. I'm thinking a plate with the bolt pattern drilled in it with a cylinder coming out of the center. Maybe even with slotted holes so it could accommodate more than one bolt pattern. Basically something like this, but a little simpler.
Behold, the wheel hub winch:
Edit: Although you'd probably be nore interested in one of this style:
Not cheap, but exactly what you're looking for:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?stocknumber=35-70050
Maybe I'm confused about your needs, but how about flipping a rotor on backward and setting it on a jackstand?
TPWalsh was thinking the same thing I was. Hub Stands.
That is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for, but I'm thinking something a little more "grassroots" (i.e. cheap).
914Driver wrote:
Maybe I'm confused about your needs, but how about flipping a rotor on backward and setting it on a jackstand?
That could totally work. Good call.
In the bodyshop industry, they are called "Overhang Compensators"
Go to the junkyard, look for something with a solid rear axle that has the same bolt pattern as your car, remove the axle shafts. When you get them home, remove the wheel studs, bearings, and maybe grind off the register bore if you need to,etc. Then you can bolt the axle flange to the hubs on your car. Then take some angle iron and weld it to your jacks stands in such a way that it will form a "V" for the axle shaft to fall into. And, you might also want to shorten the shafts a bit so you're not banging your knees whenever you walk around the car.
Those ones sold by FM are the "grassroots" version. Go price comparison shopping if you don't believe me.
If you want something to do this job, you need to allow the suspension to move. The camber will change as you lower the car on to the suspension and the base of your stand will have to be able to move sideways.
Buy a set of HF jack stands, then weld a piece of steel with the wheel pattern drilled in it to the saddle of the jack stand.
See my comments about changing camber and sideways movement. A solid connection to a jackstand will work fine on a solid axle, not on independent suspension.
You could always buy 2 sets of $24.99 HF stands, and then weld a bolt pattern plate to the insert
DOH... thats what happens when you don't read the whole thread....
So weld some casters onto a 10x10 steel plate and weld the jacks stand to that and that'll allow for any movement. Or couldn't you weld a flange to a cheap floor jack with the right bolt pattern? The jacks contact point pivots a bit plus it's got four wheels.
ebonyandivory wrote:
So weld some casters onto a 10x10 steel plate and weld the jacks stand to that and that'll allow for any movement. Or couldn't you weld a flange to a cheap floor jack with the right bolt pattern? The jacks contact point pivots a bit plus it's got four wheels.
The 'po man's way to do this is to weld a flat piece of steel to the bottom of the stand, then grease it and set it on another sheet. Tis messy... but I've been doing home alignments with tires on greased sheet metal for a long time.
When I figure the time it would take me to make four of those... 4 jack stands, milling the slots to fit more than one car, and buying atleast 16 casters or ball bearings... I'm not saving much over just taking them out of the FM box and using them. That is two premo weekend days work to make them too - I'm saving my pennies for a set. I'll spend all my fabrication time ruining a perfectly good car instead.
I wasn't aware this was for alignment purposes, Mr. Giant Purple. If so I concede your point. I was picturing one wheel at a time and the tire would be removed for space to work purposes.
A triangle piece of iron with the top point cut off and welded to a brake drum. A piece of angle iron for a flat foot....
I'm going to work on ideas to interchange other vehicle bolt sizes. It'd be handy.
ebonyandivory wrote:
I wasn't aware this was for alignment purposes, GPS...
I actually don't know what the OP was planning to do with them...
I'm just imagining myself all slick and professional, wearing white gloves and a clean shirt like they do in TV car building shows... umbrella girls handing me wrenches and kissing each other, maybe peeling me a grape or feeding me a truffle... all while setting my race car up in the paddock garage on sexy wheel stands.
moparman76_69 wrote:
Buy a set of HF *TIRE DOLLIES* , then weld a piece of steel with the wheel pattern drilled in it to the *TIRE DOLLY*
FTFY
Each one has 4 casters, to allow free movement as the suspension flexes.
And, according to the flyer that just arrived, they are ON SALE
erohslc wrote:
moparman76_69 wrote:
Buy a set of HF *TIRE DOLLIES* , then weld a piece of steel with the wheel pattern drilled in it to the *TIRE DOLLY*
FTFY
Each one has 4 casters, to allow free movement as the suspension flexes.
And, according to the flyer that just arrived, they are ON SALE
You still need to hinge somehow for camber changes...
In reply to ronholm:
Don't go overboard on the steel for the upright so it can flex a bit.
ronholm wrote:
erohslc wrote:
moparman76_69 wrote:
Buy a set of HF *TIRE DOLLIES* , then weld a piece of steel with the wheel pattern drilled in it to the *TIRE DOLLY*
FTFY
Each one has 4 casters, to allow free movement as the suspension flexes.
And, according to the flyer that just arrived, they are ON SALE
You still need to hinge somehow for camber changes...
Yah, but still better than jackstands.
In addition to camber, caster and toe changes must also be handled.
But a simple one axis hinge or pivot would still do the trick, since the dolly base can always rotate, and the rotation of the car's hub provides another degree of freedom. (just don't leave the e-brake on or car in gear)