Keeping the track-miata tracking (i.e. preventive maintenance, miata style)

In the awesome part of the country HPDE season is kicked off again (it ended in Dec). I have a 1.6 Miata that I beat the everliving snot out of. It's been doing a fantastic job of just running so far. I drive anywhere from 40minutes -> 5 hours to get to the various track events. I carry spare brake parts and that's about it. We're about to roll over 100k miles.

What can I replace so that I don't have to worry about her for another 100k miles?

What parts should I take along so that I never find myself broken down?

I hear a lot about the CAS? Only mods on the engine side of things are a big honking radiator (the engine temp never changes in my experience).

I killed an engine in my Miata at the track because the car got hot and I didn't notice the stock gauge until too late. If I had it to do over again, I'd invest a real temp gauge and put it closer to driver's line of sight. or else install a gauge with an audible alarm.

The stock gauge never moves because it's been programmed not to. It won't move until the engine gets very hot. My "never move" gauge made me think didn't have a cooling problem.

Basically, if the stock gauge isn't moving, you don't have a problem. If it IS, you do. Check it on the straights.

The biggest wear item is front hubs.

In reply to accordionfolder: I assume you're keeping up with the timing-belt & water pump changes. I do agree a more obviously functional oil pressure & temp gauge is certainly a nice option.

Keith Tanner wrote: Basically, if the stock gauge isn't moving, you don't have a problem. If it IS, you do. Check it on the straights. The biggest wear item is front hubs.

If you want to get really fancy take the cluster apart and paint a white line directly behind the needle from your line of sight at normal. This will make it quite easy to see if it has moved above normal.

I guess you could put some clear tape over the front of the cluster and draw a line on that too (would be quicker but not as elegant).

accordionfolder wrote: What can I replace so that I don't have to worry about her for another 100k miles? What parts should I take along so that I never find myself broken down?

Everything and nothing. Listen, you're tracking the car. Things break. There's no true way you can predict what or when that will happen. From a preventative maintenance standpoint, I'd suggest changing the fluids and giving everything a thorough once over...check the hoses, belts, etc...check suspension for anything loose/worn/obviously broken/making noise/excess play. Make sure there's nothing obvious that needs attention. If you can bring some spare stuff, like hubs, bearing, hoses, etc...fantastic. But unless you're brining a spare car, there's no way to be sure you won't be broken down and stuck. Just have a good "plan B" to get home if/when you break. Then go out there and have fun.

I've BTDT on the drive too/from HPDE. I broke once and thankfully someone there was far more mechanically inclined than I and was able to make a temporary repair so I could drive home (distributor issue).

I'd suggest checking heater hoses, and there is a coolant fitting on the back of the head with a rubber cap that can sometimes rupture.

I'd also keep up with fluid changes on the smaller 1.6 rear diff.

rcutclif wrote:

Keith Tanner wrote: Basically, if the stock gauge isn't moving, you don't have a problem. If it IS, you do. Check it on the straights. The biggest wear item is front hubs.

If you want to get really fancy take the cluster apart and paint a white line directly behind the needle from your line of sight at normal. This will make it quite easy to see if it has moved above normal. I guess you could put some clear tape over the front of the cluster and draw a line on that too (would be quicker but not as elegant).

Same effect but less fancy: pull the needle off and reinstall it so that normal operating temp is vertical. There's already a marking there. Your eyes are really good at picking out verticals for some reason.

Interesting note: Canadian Miatas (at least the early ones) have the temp gauge set so that it's just above 12 o'clock at normal operating temp. US Miatas have it so it's just below. My theory is that Americans are concerned about their cars overheating while Canadians are concerned about freezing to death. But it's odd regardless.

Timing and Water pump - yes.

From what I've read online, this 1.6 should have a real oil pressure gauge? A more accurate temp-gauge seems worthwhile for sure (also the oil pressure even if the the current one is legitimate).

On the rear diff: I'm currently searching for a torsion swap as I've heard many a bad thing on the 1.6. Hoses/etc are new.

Front Hubs you say. Worth carrying the parts to fix them just in case? Or are they worth changing now to prevent future failure to some extent? They currently don't have any play for whatever it's worth.

I'm aware that I can't be absolutely sure that nothing will ever break/explode/leave me stranded, but I can at least mitigate the chances on common points of failure; that is more what I am fishing for.

Consider the front hubs to be a wear item. If you like having stuff fail at the track, then carry a spare. If you don't, then factor them into your preventative maintenance schedule.

The 1.6 does have a real oil pressure gauge. It's accurate enough to be left as-is. There is no hysteresis as there is on the water temp gauge. Personally, I think calls for a more linear water temp gauge are without a lot of merit - Luxinterior would have cooked his engine with or without one, as the stock gauge does give plenty of warning and you have to really try to pop a Miata engine.

In reply to Keith Tanner:

Cool beans, so we're saying get the stuff to swap the front hubs. Stick with the normal preventive schedule and roll on?

Last questions since I've never had a hub failure on any of my cars: Any sign that they're going? Or do they just start to clunk? Or ???

This coming track season is going to be a pretty rough on the little guy. I hit up Sonoma, Buttonwillow, Laguna Seca, and Thunderhill in my track day travels and I've got my car together before the season, so I'm starting the season off right.

Keith Tanner wrote: Consider the front hubs to be a wear item. If you like having stuff fail at the track, then carry a spare. If you don't, then factor them into your preventative maintenance schedule. The 1.6 does have a real oil pressure gauge. It's accurate enough to be left as-is. There is no hysteresis as there is on the water temp gauge. Personally, I think calls for a more linear water temp gauge are without a lot of merit - Luxinterior would have cooked his engine with or without one, as the stock gauge does give plenty of warning and you have to really try to pop a Miata engine.

can't really speak to Miata's … but in my CRX (didn't have any real gauges .. so I put in a cluster of oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp)

also wired in a BRIGHT red LED idiot light … it is hooked to the OEM sensors (the OEM idiot lights were tiny and not really noticeable) this one is …

and even though I glance at the gauges on each of the straightaways, if something happened anywhere else, the bright LED (large 2" dia. ) will get my attention … engine shut off, pull off track … then figure out which gauge is showing problems …

the sudden light will get your attention MUCH quicker than the gauge will

You might want to consider epoxying the throttle body screws.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=302371

wbjones wrote:

Keith Tanner wrote: Consider the front hubs to be a wear item. If you like having stuff fail at the track, then carry a spare. If you don't, then factor them into your preventative maintenance schedule. The 1.6 does have a real oil pressure gauge. It's accurate enough to be left as-is. There is no hysteresis as there is on the water temp gauge. Personally, I think calls for a more linear water temp gauge are without a lot of merit - Luxinterior would have cooked his engine with or without one, as the stock gauge does give plenty of warning and you have to really try to pop a Miata engine.

can't really speak to Miata's … but in my CRX (didn't have any real gauges .. so I put in a cluster of oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp) also wired in a BRIGHT red LED idiot light … it is hooked to the OEM sensors (the OEM idiot lights were tiny and not really noticeable) this one is … and even though I glance at the gauges on each of the straightaways, if something happened anywhere else, the bright LED (large 2" dia. ) will get my attention … engine shut off, pull off track … then figure out which gauge is showing problems … the sudden light will get your attention MUCH quicker than the gauge will

I run a warning light on my oil pressure along with the gauge. It's a good idea, that one tends to be very time-critical. Cooling issues don't happen immediately without accompanying dramatics.

Front hubs will get loose as they start to go. Some guys are starting to replace rear drive flanges as well due to a few high profile failures. They tend to go without warning. The symptom is the loss of your outside rear wheel mid-corner.

Rear Hub failures:

http://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/when-last-time-you-changed-your-rear-hubs-72613/

https://www.facebook.com/flyinmiata/posts/10151456379121631

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3k2u2zaIA3c

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQHyjr-ybJk

Throttle body info

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=302371

Huh, so after all that information I can't figure out which hubs are the right ones to order? I have a 1.6 diff too, so I think that muddies the water a bit more.

So, front hubs, rear hubs, ball joints, TB, yay!

One of those videos is probably mine.

I'm also in SF, race SM and do an occasional track day. The season did not end in Dec. It never ends here.

The Miata is remarkably reliable when used for track duty. If you aren't running super sticky slicks like the Hoosiers, your wheel bearings / hubs will generally last longer. Some of the aftermarket hubs aren't as durable as the well used OE hubs so don't be in a rush to replace them. Check for play regularly and replace if you feel any play. It can't hurt to carry a spare (including the big 29mm nut) but you'll also need the tools to replace it at the track.

If you have already done ALL of the hoses and hose clamps, you should be OK. Friend lost an engine when the little hose under the TB and intake manifold split on track so be sure you replaced them all. Rent a coolant system pressure tester from the local auto parts store and check for any leaks just to be sure. Beyond that, how does your radiator look?

Definitely install a water temp gauge. I got an Autometer Elite since it has a built in idiot light to warn you if you are getting too hot.

Do replace your tranny and diff oil as they get pretty hot and the oil loses viscosity which will kill the bearings. Use the 90 weight Ford stuff, Redline MT90 or Amsoil for the trans. The MTL is a bit thin for frequent track use in our ambient temps. I've sent samples to Blackstone and the MTL doesn't last as long b/c thinner.

Bleed the brakes and clutch at the beginning of the season and it should be good all season. I run Hawk DTC60 pads and the fronts can last an entire season sometimes only about 3/4 but that is driver dependent. Definitely use the stock brake hardware on the pads. It helps retract the pads when you are off the brake pedal.

Beyond that, break out your torque wrench and FSM and do a "nut and bolt check" - torque the suspension bolts, brake bolts, engine mounts, PPF mounts. Check that your alternator belt is good and properly tensioned. Maybe have a good alignment done as well. AutoRND in Hayward is a good resource for a street car and cheaper than Custom Alignment in Mountain View.