Learn Me: 1976 Triumph Spitfire

My roommate is looking to get a 1976 Triumph Spitfire. I was just wondering what some problem areas for these cars are and what I should look for. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

One of the biggest problems is the rear crackshaft thrust bearing. Often what seems to be just a hydraulic problem with the clutch is actually caused by the fact that the thrust bearing has worn so thin that is has dropped into the oil pan consquently damaging the crankshaft and the rear main cap.

Usually you'll find that if it's still running the electronic ignition system has been replaced enough times that it is currently running one that is at least semi reliable, but if not . . .

The stromberg carbs can be troublesome and hard to always diagnose the problem. Best bet there is to find a good reliable source of knowledge about them. The auto chokes can leak fuel onto the catalytic converter causing a fire.

If they have been well maintained they can still be fun little cars. Best to be prepared to do much of your own maintenance. Haynes makes a pretty good shop manual for them.

Good luck to your roommate.

Rust. Engine. Differential. Driveshafts. Cooling system. If they didn't look so darn cool, nobody would bother with them.

Yeah, I'd kind of like one myself.

Check the trunnion too. They often get neglected.

Rust in the rockers Bushings (all) Rust in the floorpans Driveshafts Rust in the rear quarters Everything electrical Rust in battery box Seats Rust at front of hood

What the others said. The thrust bearing thing is probably worst. It can be checked with the engine in the car, youuse a big screwdriver etc to push the front crank pulley back as far as it will go. Then you use the same thing to push it toward the front. It should not move back and forth more than about .006 inch, if it moves a BUNCH (like 1/8"!) then the thrust bearings are bad $$$ and the motor has to come out.

The trunnion referred to is at the bottom of the front suspension 'knuckle' where it bolts to the lower control arm. There is a grease fitting there but the trunnions are bronze and require 80/90 gear oil. So folks see a grease fitting, say 'Aha!', pump it full of grease and 20,000 miles later the steering is stiff and won't return well. At some point it can separate (it happened to me!).

Spitfire are like Chevys, everything from 1962-1980 swaps back and forth like they were built with Legos. If you can shoot some pics of the engine etc and post them, we can probably tell you what has been farkled with.

I owned and loved a Fiesta too, until it got crunched by a Buick. Mine was baby poop brown.

Lucas electrics!....All hail the prince of darkness!

emodspitfire wrote: Lucas electrics!....All hail the prince of darkness!

Or worse yet a damn previous own who berkeleyed with said electrical components.

fiesta54 wrote: My roommate is looking to get a 1976 Triumph Spitfire. I was just wondering what some problem areas for these cars are and what I should look for. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

RUN AWAY!!! RUN AWAY!!!

Dr. Hess wrote:

fiesta54 wrote: My roommate is looking to get a 1976 Triumph Spitfire. I was just wondering what some problem areas for these cars are and what I should look for. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

RUN AWAY!!! RUN AWAY!!!

Keep in mind, that's coming from a man that owns more than one Lotus.

Oh come on guys, they aren't that bad.

Especially after Curmudgeon gets done with them.

Spitfires tremble at the sound of my name.

Don't buy one. I did.

Yeah, run away now. Instead, sell it to me for $50 (I can always use another donor car ;)

If it has the original engine, its the best standard 1500 because it should have higher compression. The only year it came.

Rust, thrust washers and DPO are the biggest concerns.

DPO= Dumb (or damn) Previous Owner.

Curmudgeon wrote: The thrust bearing thing is probably worst. It can be checked with the engine in the car, youuse a big screwdriver etc to push the front crank pulley back as far as it will go. Then you use the same thing to push it toward the front. It should not move back and forth more than about .006 inch, if it moves a BUNCH (like 1/8"!) then the thrust bearings are bad $$$ and the motor has to come out.

Thrust bearings can be replaced with the engine in the car. I've done it and it's not hard at all. I'd argue it's one of the easier Spitfire repair tasks.

Otherwise... what the others have said. Fun little cars. We have a '79 1500 (g/f's car) with a number of odds and ends replaced (most notably an aftermarket wiring harness) and a '72 GT6 (mine) that is basically stock (for now... ).

If the TW's haven't fallen out, yeah. If they have and the crank/block are graunched, not so much. That's the whole reason for the 1/8" vs. .006 or so movement disclaimer.

DPO also = Dreaded Previous Owner. On electrics: I cannot count the number of times I have seen crap like clear speaker wire or that brown lamp zip cord used to 'fix' wiring...

True, but if there's a good amount of movement the bearings may just be worn and replaced without having to do major engine surgery.

Parts counter guy looking through the window at my Mk3:

"If that's a Triumph, I'd hate to see what they call a failure."

bludroptop wrote: Parts counter guy looking through the window at my Mk3: "If that's a Triumph, I'd hate to see what they call a failure."

My dad when he saw my 1st Mk3: 'Triumph over what?'

The unfortunate thing about the TW's is that if there's a heap o' movement the only real way to know if the crank/block are wrecked is drop the pan. In really bad cases the clutch won't disengage. If I wiggled a Spit crank back and forth and saw .100 or so movement the price would plummet like Cain's campaign.

bludroptop wrote: Parts counter guy looking through the window at my Mk3: "If that's a Triumph, I'd hate to see what they call a failure."

Yah, I had a stock car racing buddy that called them 'Suckwater Defeat'

( how many reversals can you count? ;)

I'm biased, have owned at least 20 of them .... still have 6.

Curmudgeon wrote: If the TW's haven't fallen out, yeah. If they have and the crank/block are graunched, not so much. That's the whole reason for the 1/8" vs. .006 or so movement disclaimer. DPO also = Dreaded Previous Owner. On electrics: I cannot count the number of times I have seen crap like clear speaker wire or that brown lamp zip cord used to 'fix' wiring...

Lamp cord? Everyone knows you are supposed to use Romex.

The only thing wrong with them is the same as applies to all Brit cars;

Unless you can do your own maintenance, they are expensive to own. Not so much because there is anything wrong with them, but they come from an era when cars needed a lot of maintenance and wore out at 60 miles.

So, chances are the car is well beyond its "Best Before" date and had very little maintenance from the current owner since the onset of "I want to sell this thing and get a real car".

As a hobby car to keep transport and tinkering separate, all Brit cars are great. I hear some people actually drive them.

Wow thanks for all the input! Hopefully be going to check out the car when I get back from school.

fiesta54 wrote: Wow thanks for all the input! Hopefully be going to check out the car when I get back from school.

If it isn't rusty, it won't be hard to work on IMHO.