Learn me: Cheap E30 DD

Could one in theory, use a sub $2000 E30 or E36 318i as year round reliable transport? By reliable, I mean as good as a high mileage mid 90s GM product, like the POS Sunfire I currently DD. .

It appears the parts are cheap on rockauto, is this true? How do these hold up with high miles? What kind of gas mileage do they really get? Can a M42 powered 318i run on 87 octane?

What I need: 30mpg Highway @85 mph.

Manual

Reasonable upkeep(I do all my own work)

Cheap to buy

What I want: RWD

Fun(relative to a dead base 96 Sunfire)

Sure, it can be done. They are generally reliable cars but like anything else, it will depend on how well it's been taken care of prior to your ownership. Of course, to be economical you have to be able to take care of regular maintenance yourself.

stuart in mn wrote: Sure, it can be done. They are generally reliable cars but like anything else, it will depend on how well it's been taken care of prior to your ownership. Of course, to be economical you have to be able to take care of regular maintenance yourself.

Do they require anything out of the ordinary in terms of routine maintenance? Just timing belts, ignition, filters and fluids, right? I know about the rag joints on the driveshaft.

I bought my 85 M10 powered 318i for $1k with a whole truckload of spare and new parts (literally). I've probably dropped about $500 on parts for it unrelated to rallycross (those cost extra), but I would have no problem daily-driving it except for its lack of air conditioning.

If I could get an e30 touring (wagon) into the country, I would strongly consider fixing it up and ditching my WRX as a daily.....

The answer to your question is a strong "yes" if you can find one with good engine/tranny/tires. Parts are cheap for e30s if you go OEM-replacement.

Kenny_McCormic wrote:

stuart in mn wrote: Sure, it can be done. They are generally reliable cars but like anything else, it will depend on how well it's been taken care of prior to your ownership. Of course, to be economical you have to be able to take care of regular maintenance yourself.

Do they require anything out of the ordinary in terms of routine maintenance? Just timing belts, ignition, filters and fluids, right? I know about the rag joints on the driveshaft.

Some suspension components go bad, like any car. But replacements are typically pretty cheap. If you get an M10 or M42 (4-cyl) car, they have timing chains rather than belts.

the 4 cylinder cars use chains, not belts.. so that is one less thing to worry about.

If you wanted a cheap and reliable E36.. I would steer you towards the 318ti. It gets mid 30s and does not have all the gadgets the sedan and coupe' have.. so there is less to go wrong.

It will have the self recycling interior though

mad_machine wrote: the 4 cylinder cars use chains, not belts.. so that is one less thing to worry about. If you wanted a cheap and reliable E36.. I would steer you towards the 318ti. It gets mid 30s and does not have all the gadgets the sedan and coupe' have.. so there is less to go wrong. It will have the self recycling interior though

It's the chipped keys mess that concerns me. How long do the chains last before stretching to a point where it affects performance?

not sure on the chain.. I am at 150,000 miles on my M44 in the ti.. no issues yet (though I am planning on a chain and tensioner RR this winter)

As for chipped keys.. I don't think my 96 Ti has one.. the key looks very plain

I bought a 91 318is with the M42 engine maybe 6 years ago. Granted, the previous owner had taken care of all the maintenance items before I purchased it but in 6 years I haven't had to do much other than brakes, oil, driveshaft joints and the cooling system. I bought it with 150K miles and it is now well over 200K and still going strong. Don't believe any claims of 30+ mpg unless you swap the differential. Mid 20's is pretty average. Makes a great DD.

I DD'd my '88 for awhile back in 2010... and probably will again when the TDI goes down for 300K service in a couple of months. It serves as encouragement to fix the VW faster. I used to love the idea of an E30 as a DD, based on all ofthe posts on this forum. Then I bought one...

Seems like if you want a slow, reliable car that is RWD, a ETA BMW can be found pretty cheap.

If you want a sporty, fun little car, the "is" model is the one to have...and they are harder to find and more expensive.

I haven't had much luck finding examples with swaps already done.

I have been DD'ing this 325is and have given some thought to selling it.
http://rides.webshots.com/album/576561728HNsaAD

It has been very reliable and overall, easy to live with.

dbgrubbs wrote: I bought a 91 318is with the M42 engine maybe 6 years ago. Granted, the previous owner had taken care of all the maintenance items before I purchased it but in 6 years I haven't had to do much other than brakes, oil, driveshaft joints and the cooling system. I bought it with 150K miles and it is now well over 200K and still going strong. Don't believe any claims of 30+ mpg unless you swap the differential. Mid 20's is pretty average. Makes a great DD.

My Ti, with a similar engine, but with better aerodynamics.. can get mid 30s on the highway.. but around town and mixed driving drops it to mid to high 20s.. currently at 27ish with my 12 mile commute to work that includes a couple dozen stoplights and a 5 mile stretch of highway

JohnRW1621 wrote: I have been DD'ing this 325is and have given some thought to selling it. http://rides.webshots.com/album/576561728HNsaAD It has been very reliable and overall, easy to live with.

I know I would for one would like more information.

I've been thinking of selling my Miata in search of a slightly more comfortable DD that doesn't lose all the fun.

JohnRW1621 wrote: I have been DD'ing this 325is and have given some thought to selling it. http://rides.webshots.com/album/576561728HNsaAD It has been very reliable and overall, easy to live with.

I'd like to know more too...

DaveEstey wrote: I've been thinking of selling my Miata in search of a slightly more comfortable DD that doesn't lose all the fun.

I have some experience in a Miata and now a fair bit with the E30. I bought the E30 with similar thoughts, but without the need for it to see regular DD duty (plus a g/f that hates Japanese cars...). The E30 isn't even in the same zip code as a Miata when it comes to "fun to drive".

Maybe you'll feel different, but try to get some lengthy time in a sorted E30 before selling the Miata.

In reply to Ian F:

Will do. Thanks for the insight.

Where is the OP located? There's a whole world of difference between a sun $2k E30 in South Cali Vs the rust belt. Hint rust belt is pertinant to the situation

Two things mainly - the shifter and the steering. Both will feel truck-like compared to a Miata. The steering can be fixed with an E36 rack swap. The shifter... eh... it's just a design with a given amount of play (even after you've replaced every bloody part/bushing that can be replaced). The shifter on my Cummins 5 spd (w/ 265K miles) feels more precise.

Adrian_Thompson wrote: Where is the OP located? There's a whole world of difference between a sun $2k E30 in South Cali Vs the rust belt. Hint rust belt is pertinant to the situation

Michigan, I-94 Corridor.

Adrian_Thompson wrote: Where is the OP located? There's a whole world of difference between a sun $2k E30 in South Cali Vs the rust belt. Hint rust belt is pertinant to the situation

Actually a $2k E30 in SoCal is going to be half a wreck. I don't think I've seen any halfway nice ones down there for less than $3k-$4k.

Actually it's a bit of a unicorn, but I hear a 325es makes a good daily driver, too.

You'll find 10 sub-$2,000 "e" models before you'll find a "i" or "is" model under that price.

PHeller wrote: You'll find 10 sub-$2,000 "e" models before you'll find a "i" or "is" model under that price.

Much of the reason that my e30 is not listed in the sub $2k section of this website.
As for the Miata to e30 debate, I own both. The e30 is much more suited to daily activity. My '90 Miata is built to SCCA stock class rules and though fun to drive, the lack of space gets old.
On the e30, changing to a shorter throw Z3 shifter, all fresh bushings and RedLine fluid did a lot to improve the experience but true, it is not as good as "stock" Miata.

The e30 was to be my track car. Bought when I had the money but not the time. Now I have the time but realities dictate that the money could be suited better elsewhere. More cargo and rear seat capability needed.

Though my e30 is not rust free, by northern standards it is pretty darn good. Personally, it is just between that stage where the debate is to keep the mostly shinny factory paint or improve a few areas and go for the whole body respray.

Kenny_McCormic wrote:

Adrian_Thompson wrote: Where is the OP located? There's a whole world of difference between a sun $2k E30 in South Cali Vs the rust belt. Hint rust belt is pertinant to the situation

Michigan, I-94 Corridor.

Ah, local then. I'm in Beverly Hills and I've checked out a few sub $1k cars so far. Tom Spangler has recently bought a rust free non running eta car and a rusted beyond Flinstone mobile is, his thread is here. http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/the-ugly-e30/50113/page1/

I'd like to find a rust free runner for around $1k, then have another $1k to throw at it. For me though it would be 100% toy, DD is taken car off by new(ish) cars