Learn me: Front suspension and rallyX

So here is the part where I tend to choose to stop listening, I'm not very interested in suspension tuning for the most part I only know the basics and how bad alignments ruin tires/car handling.

So after running blown shocks for past 2 seasons I thought it was time to change that and re-asses my suspension while my engine still limps along.

The vehicle in question is FC rx7, rallycross application and no sway bars.

I finally installed my new front control arms with mazdaspeed competition bushings and replaced the blown rear autozone shocks with some bilsteins. Car drove muuuch better over this weekends rallycross but my fronts are blown KYB AGX and the strut mount bearings are equally bad and the springs are probably a little old.

There are a few problems:

1. There really isn't anything off the shelf for my application.

2. I hear the KYBs are basically mystery adjustment/chineseium and not worthwhile.

3. Bilstein makes shocks for my front but they are shock inserts so I'm not sure exactly what needs to be done.

4. mazdaspeed sells coil over conversion kits but it also requires need new upper mounts, it still lacks a shock insert and I have to pick spring rates, then getting a rate wrong gets expensive and I have random springs laying around...

5. Koni did not make shocks for my chassis

6. I don't want shocks that cost more than my engine...

7. I will blow out any tokicko, monroe and etc OE style shock too quickly to be worthwhile.

Best budget thing I can think of for optimial performance is run bilsteins (130 each) use moog shock mounts (50 each) pick up camber bolts for shocks (20 dollars) new convertible springs from mazda (100 each) plus whatever labor required to get bilstein insert into shock. So this is still several hundred dollars...

Ideas/thoughts/input/suggestions appreciated.

It sounds like you have a good handle on this.

What about Turbo springs?

Camber bolts break easier than stock bolts, and they can slip out of adjustment. Slotted bolt holes on the shock, or camber plates are a better way to get static negative camber.

To install inserts you drill a hole in the bottom of the stock shock and drain the garbage out. Then you use a pipe cutter (or whatever you like) to remove the top of the shock so you can pull the shaft and valving out.

Slide insert in, bolt it through the bottom (you already made the hole, how convenient!) and Bob's your uncle.

Koni does make inserts for the FC. They used to make rear shocks too, but no longer. I have a pair on mine.

I actually have some gutted front shock housings I could send you.

I know I sound like a broken record with this, but pay attention to your bump stops too. They make a huge difference in how you car handles that last couple of inches of travel.

It really makes a difference when they aren't there at all...

EvanB wrote: It really makes a difference when they aren't there at all...

You're one of my data points.
Don't be like Evan, run bump stops.

mazdeuce wrote:

EvanB wrote: It really makes a difference when they aren't there at all...

You're one of my data points. Don't be like Evan, run bump stops.

Sound advice.

In my defence I was originally running bump stops but they fell out.

Napa has a Monroe shock book(or you can find it online) that shows the various configurations of standard shocks/struts. Find one in the catalog with similar mounting points as your car & see if it might match some compact pickup, then look for an off-road strut for that truck?

Brett_Murphy wrote: It sounds like you have a good handle on this. What about Turbo springs?

I believe that they are the same as convertible springs. I have a rear pair of great condition t2 springs and I went to change them out for vert ones I aquired for free they were the same height. I put the t2 ones back one because they were in better condition and slightly taller (probably due to condition)

Also look at this chart and tell me otherwise...

Front Right Convertible spring is FB67-34-011

Front Left Auto Adjust spring is FB67-34-011

Front Left Convertible Spring is FB67-34-021

Front Left Coupe w/ LSD diff spring is FB67-34-021

its also funny on that chart that the Left shock is on the right side...

I am currently running bumpstops, but I think only in the front. The rear may have the bump stop mount but not the actual stop...

Where are you getting the bilsteins?

I want some!

The nice thing about the FC is that the cheap chinese ebay coilovers work. Then you just need springs. You can get used springs pretty cheap. The adjustability means that you can run the springs on the front or rear if you get them short enough (7" works okay for front or rear).

If you are allowed, just slot the strut towers. Thats what we did on our crapcan racer.

Rob R.

Racing beat springs are pretty cheap used and are a little stiffer (the front is, the rear is not).

In reply to wvumtnbkr:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-34-050149

(found number by searching Bilstein catalog)

In reply to wvumtnbkr:

well I got rears for my rx7 for 200 shipped from summit. They gave me 25 dollar gift card and t-shirt because they kept sending me the wrong shocks for my truck (also bilsteins)

I looked up the part# on tire rack and put it in summits site.

Slotting the towers is allowed and thats how I used to do alignments on tauruses back in the day. I have had that idea already but I don't want to weaken the metal and I have no welding experience or a welder.

EvanB wrote: In reply to wvumtnbkr: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-34-050149 (found number by searching Bilstein catalog)

NINJA POST!

HA!

I usually go through the Bilstein catalog first to find the part number then google it. That is how I found Bilstein HDs for my Peugeot that weren't listed by application.

In reply to fidelity101:

Sounds like a great opportunity to buy a 110 v Mig and start learning.

However, we haven't had any problems with our strut towers flexing or failing and they are not welded.

Rob R.

In reply to wvumtnbkr:

My garage would catch on fire and I rent and it floods. so no.

Working on my car can be a chore in there, sometimes service at a stage rally is more friendly.

ohh, I understand. I built 2 lemons cars in a 1 car not-heated garage that I was renting.

it sucks.

To work on teh drivers side, I had the car almost touching the right side wall. Then I would have to back it out and move it to the other side to work on the passenger side.

If you are worried about it, don't weld it. Use pop rivets. Lots of pop rivets. Seriously.

DaveEstey wrote: I actually have some gutted front shock housings I could send you.

I may be very interested in those...

I don't want some super crazy suspension, I want something good enough that will take some serrious abuse.

I can measure the GXL springs I have too if you're so inclined.

While not necessarily on a budget per say, there are quite a few companies who can rebuild coilovers. I wonder if you could find a cheap Chinese set on ebay for pennies and get them rebuilt and valved for not running 13b money. Swift 2.5" springs in your desired spring rate aren't overly expensive either. It's a long shot.

fidelity101 wrote: Best budget thing I can think of for optimial performance is run bilsteins (130 each)

Part number!!!

GameboyRMH wrote: Camber bolts break easier than stock bolts, and they can slip out of adjustment. Slotted bolt holes on the shock, or camber plates are a better way to get static negative camber.

I never had an issue with Progress camber bolts loosening. Even after leaving one barely more than finger-tight after an emergency strut swap because AGX are good but lose fluid quickly.