Topic says it all. I'm not going to drive my broken Avalanche nor my Mustang this winter up here in Michigan. Commute is roughly 80 miles one way and 97% freeway, north of Grand Rapids to downtown Kalamazoo.
Whats the collective discussion on something 2-3k or less? Broken bits are ok as long as replacements are available. Of course it would get the once over on fluids, brakes, tires, et al..
Do you have to buy the car in Michigan? If at all possible, buy from somewhere south!
If you are not that versed in winter driving, buy something that has large wheel wells. Over sized tires filling up the wheel well may look good but with slush and snow, you want that snow to be able to get out of the well rather than packed in the well. This is where CUVs usually excel. The higher ride often means a more open wheel well.
Cars well suited for the climate (like CUVs and Subarus) will be greatly overpriced for the area. High demand= high price.
The right tires will be more important than anything.
In reply to John Welsh :
It's a turn and burn kind of car deal. Get through winter sell in spring. I don't want to subject something "nice" to even a week of Michigan winter.
I already lived here once, 1975-2005. 
At that price I would buy purely based on overall condition and condition/quality of the tires that are on it. That's the cheapest way through to selling it in the spring.
Find the most grandma-fresh GM W-Body with a 3800V6 you can. Great in the snow, comfortable, and fantastic winter bombers.
In reply to Tony Sestito :
Beat me to it. Great highway cruisers, not horrible gas mileage and good winter cars. I spent my first 5 winters in 2 different Grand Prixs.
I would take some of that budget and fly south out of the rust belt then pick up a GM SUV.
My favorite would be something like a Trailblazer, Envoy etc. that Six cylinder is extremely durable and surprisingly snarfy. (290 hp)
Plus our Andrew /Calvin Nelson has made 824 horsepower with one fresh out of the junkyard with a stock bottom end. Just a turbo, reground cams, and tune. It'll take 30 PsI boost But not 40!!!!!
I spent one exceptionally rough Ohio winter driving a Buick Lesabre with Firestone winterforce tires. OMG, what a great combo. Heavy fwd'er pushing down on those good tires!
But, on the Lesabres, pull back the trunk carpet to see the tops of the rear struts. Very popular to rust through right there. I learned this after I bought mine. I used Por-15 on it which helped. At least it helped to assure it was not the tihing that took it off the road.
Quick find...a pre-bumped Lucerne (the newer Lesabre) asking $2,200 but only 94k
There's no reason to buy something rusty, even if you're going to quickly make it rusty. A clean southern car will sell for a premium even after a winter or two.
Another vote for fly-n-drive.
Mid-Late 2000s Ford Fusion. Cheap to own/operate, parts are everywhere IF you even need them. Mine has seen MN salt for over 5 years and only gets washed once a year maybe and it barely shows any signs of cosmetic, much less structural rot. I've seen several of them in the 2500-5000 range depending on miles/condition/options.
In reply to Tom Suddard :
If I did that, I would want to keep it. That leads to having yet another vehicle on top of the 6 I have in various states in the garages and driveway.
Only $2k because AC doesn't work (perfect for your use) w/ 98k Bonneville
In reply to Tony Sestito :
Driven one before... I swear these off because I would want to keep it. Then proceed to cut the "trans tunnel" out, move the steering rack forward, cut the rear section of the front subframe out, drop in a longitudinally mounted LS with a turbo 400, convert the rear to a ford 9" with a 4 link and wishbone to run in 275/60r15's.... then the full sfi 25.3 chassis...
Its a rabbit hole...
In reply to Ranger50 :
Spending a few hundred bucks to fly out of the rust belt and bring home a decent non rusty winter beater seems like a good move. I'm certain out of those 6 you have you have at least one that no longer excites you.
Once winter turns to spring you could wash it off and send it on its way with some money in your pocket since it's not rusty. Or keep it for a few more winters.
From experience those Trailblazers/Envoys make great tow vehicles. Really smooth ride (rear air suspension in the high end ones) Pulling tandem axle enclosed trailers all over the country, and plowing through snow drifts up to the hood. All the time getting decent fuel mileage. 22-24
Plus they tend to be easy on the tires. 80-85,000 miles on a set of Goodyear Wranglers. Never once having an alignment from new.
The last one I had had a little air compressor in the back for the air suspension but it was real handy to top up the tires, which is part of the reason I got such life out of ordinary tires. 5 minutes from start to finish and all tires were filled and the hose coiled back up In the compartment.
It was real handy for race weekends. Perfect for sleeping in, fold the seats flat and snore away.
In reply to frenchyd :
4 of them are "classics", 25yrs old or more. The other two are listed above.
Another vote for the 1st gen Fusion, my sister has gotten almost a decade of trouble-free use out of hers with only oil changes and tie rods changed. They also ride fairly well.
When I lived in the rust belt and did the winter beater thing I just bought the nicest whatever I could find for the cash I had on hand. That was really the only criteria. I'd factor tires, a new battery and an exhaust system into my budget.
Another vote for a 3800 car. Around me there are a trillion beige Centurys and LeSabres for cheap.
You might also find a grandma something with an iron duke, like a Cavalier. Painfully slow, but can't kill it. 2.8/3.1L is also not a bad bet. I've owned lots of them and they rotted into a pile of rust before the little six needed anything fixed.
You could also find the cheapest Camry, Corolla, Scion, Hyundai or Kia. Reliable AF and cheap to run.
I live in VT. I've never seen the need for AWD. If conditions are that bad, stay put!
My old boss used to say some cars have all wheel drive, some cars have two wheel drive, but all cars have four wheel stop. It's what happens at the contact patch that counts. Get a good front driver that you like and the best snow tires on it that you can. Mazda 2 or 3, Corolla, Civic, etc.
I recall a border guard in Port Huron telling me studs are not allowed in Michigan.
Ranger50 said:In reply to Tony Sestito :
Driven one before... I swear these off because I would want to keep it. Then proceed to cut the "trans tunnel" out, move the steering rack forward, cut the rear section of the front subframe out, drop in a longitudinally mounted LS with a turbo 400, convert the rear to a ford 9" with a 4 link and wishbone to run in 275/60r15's.... then the full sfi 25.3 chassis...
Its a rabbit hole...
Easy solution: Buy two.
Winter beater shopping is fun.
I would be looking for something that could fit smaller 14-15" wheels, thinking that I'd be throwing on some cheap snow tires. Smaller tires are cheaper. With that in mind you don't need to worry about the condition of the tires when car shopping. Good tires will make it easier to sell in the spring too.
Central/west Michigan freeway commute is probably flat enough that you don't need to think about awd.
2005-11 Focus are $cheap, simple, and relatively sturdy. Find one with intact rocker panels and roll.
Or buy This Impala and call it a day.
Old Ford Escapes and Jeep Liberty might be good options too.
Ranger50 said:In reply to frenchyd :
4 of them are "classics", 25yrs old or more. The other two are listed above.
Does age really matter? Isn't it about condition? By their nature they don't get messed around with very much. Or thrashed on. It's a perfect grandma vehicle. Maybe she does a little estate/ garage sale purchasing. Or take a couple of ladies to play cards or dominoes.
I bought a 2002 and a 2006. Both are still running around. I gave mine to my late wife and she gave it to her younger sister who gave it to her son. Last I heard it's over 400,000 miles the 2006 went to my son in law who still has it.
yupididit said:Old Ford Escapes and Jeep Liberty might be good options too.
But not if you want to put a $150 E Bay turbo on and make 600 hp without touching the rest of the engine.
frenchyd said:yupididit said:Old Ford Escapes and Jeep Liberty might be good options too.
But not if you want to put a $150 E Bay turbo on and make 600 hp without touching the rest of the engine.
What every winter beater that is going to be sold in the spring needs.
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