I'm involved with a build and the engine being used is a JDM H23 "blue top" v-tech. I'm not a honda guy and neither are the others.
Goal is good reliable power that will last all season. What it actually makes power wise is not a priority
We're planning on tearing down for inspection and replacing the gaskets and seals, timing belt, porting the intake, changing/upgrading the valve springs. Will be on a stand alone ECU.
Would like to: convert to coil packs or coil on plug. To do this I hear the crank sensor is easy by swapping to a USDM H22 oil pump and balance shaft gear. For the cam sensor i'm not sure what's the best route. Use the Distributor parts or aftermarket or custom housing with a k series or GM cam sensor...if that's something I could build.
I have done some searching and reading through any related posts I could find on other forums but the doesn't seem to be much info, or parts options for that matter out there. My biggest concerns are : Oil supply, Making sure the bottom end is good (the tear down and inspect), Valvetrain stability/preventative maintenance (the timing belt and valve springs). Anyone with first hand experience? What are the parts or things that should be looked at to ensure a solid reliable engine?
Oil supply: baffle the pan and/or use an Accusump, the factory pan has nothing.
Bottom end: stout, leave it alone
Valvetrain: See above ^. Adjust the lash to factory spec.
Coil on plug: Do it! The igniter's in the distributors are a weak point. You'll want an OBD1 ECU for tuning anyway, then get this https://jasonwaterstuning.com/products/hondarulez-coil-on-plug-conversion-kit-and-combo-kits
I race a Prelude with an H22, very similar engine. It's been very very reliable, except for the distributor issues.
I donno what to add except that Ross is right.
I road race an H23A1 and have had the same experience. They seem to blow a lot of oil out of the valve cover vent closest to the transmission, so it helps to have a decently sized catch can.
Oh, and pack an extra Main Relay in your spares kit. They seem to crap out on a whim and the fuel pump won't run without it.
I've got a lot of experience with H22s and F20Bs (very similar engines). Buy a moroso oil pan for the h2x. It's baffled, bigger, and very nice. We had one on our H series engines before we moved to the F20. They make great reliable power, do the Hondata CPR kit. It eliminates the weak point in the ignition system but it does require a Hondata S300 and a Hondata CPR kit. That's about $1000 give or take $100 just in computer pieces for the swap. Then you need 4-8 coils and a way to keep the coils in in place. Totally worth it though. We've been through way too many distributors and ICMs doing Champcar.
Depending on the rules of the series add an dual core aluminum radiator, an oil cooler, etc. We've gotten 100+ racing hours out of junkyard engines without ever cracking open the inside.
Thank you for the recommendations!
tremm said:
Did the G23 ever go anywhere? Think it was a version of the F22 heads on an H block that people were brainstorming
G23s (H22 head on a F23 block) are pretty common in turbocharged applications for street cars. The FRM cylinder liners on the H series blocks prevents people from running forged pistons without an expensive re-sleeving, so people tend to avoid it. I don't see too many of those in road racing applications, but am admittedly curious to see if one could work in bracket racing class.
