The one notable thing missing from my tool collection is a plasma cutter, which is odd considering I do a decent amount of metal fabrication. Generally I can't think of any times I'd need to cut anything thicker than 1/8" or so. So what do I need to know about plasma cutters on a budget?
- are ones like the Eastwood Versa Cut 20 or the JEGS 81545K decent?
- for air, I assume pretty much any small compressor should be sufficient?
- what do i need to know about consumables?
I bought an ebay cheapie around Christmas time last year, I think I paid $162. A Cut50 of some sticker/color. It didn't explode, and I've used it to cut half a sheet of 3/16" into gussets and brackets and step-notch metal.
They don't seem to hog the air that much. I'm sure any compressor will do.
The cheapie-cheapies don't have a pilot arc, which is important if you want to put it in a CNC plasma cutter. Mine needs the tip touching the surface - a "drag tip." Apparently the drag tips go through more consumables - I haven't used up all the ones mine came with, but they appear to be cheap on ebay too.
I do a lot of metal fab, but really don't use the plasma cutter enough to justify spending more.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
Until your post, I didn’t know any cost less than the 699 H. F. machines ... and no clue if that was worth buying. I looked on flea bay real quick, and am intrigued.
I'm going to buy one also but will probably step up to an entry level 240 V. So I'll be watching this thread.
I have the Eastwood Versacut 60. Was around $600 I think.
220v is a requirement. My small 4 gallon compressor could keep it happy, but having my bigger compressors keeps it going much longer. It blows air out for a while after you let off the trigger.
It's cut everything I've thrown at it, should be good to 3/4 inch material.
One of my favorite toys, and I find ever reason to use it.
I went there from Skinny’s post. It’s 110/220. I’m just shocked at the price, and curious as to how one compares to the $600+ that I thought were entry level. I know a couple guys that paid about 1200... I assume they are better.
I have the Eastwood 60A as well.... Eastwood usually has a 10% off/free shipping sale going on for the holidays.
+1 on 220V. Previously, I had a 25A/110V Lincoln that I bought off CL locally. It was pretty marginal, and the bigger Eastwood works a lot better. The Lincoln was used, so may not have been working at 100%...
They also require a pretty large volume of air, so you'll want a compressor with decent capacity.
Honestly, since I bought a HF portable bandsaw and Swag offroad table, I don't use the plasma cutter all that often. If you don't already have a bandsaw, you might get a lot more for your money by buying one. Unless you're working with large pieces of material.
I have this one from Amazon.
VIVOHOME Portable DC Inverter Plasma Cutter
It is also a Cut 50 but it does have the pilot arc mentioned above. It was $239. It has cut everything I've needed cut without any fuss. I ordered a package of tips to go with it but it's still on the first one.
Work has a $750 one, and a $2500 one, both with pilot arcs. I've used them both enough to have a good feel for them.
They all cut pretty much the same.
And yeah, my cheapie can use either voltage.
I just picked up a Lotos ltp5000d, normally $450 on Amazon, $290 new in the box from Facebook. I went with this one after reading some reviews, it's supposed to be the best of the cheap to mid priced models. On top of that a guy at work has the $700 version that can TIG and Stick, he says the plasma part works great.
I really like my Hobart AirForce 12ci, which has integrated air so it doesn't require a compressor or the associated hose, and is about $700. It's great on 1/8" and thinner racecar stuff, but I've used it on 1/4" as well, but the going is much slower.
Add-on question: on a scale from "being careful with a MAP gas torch" to "blanketing the entire shop in napalm" how likely are these things to set the stuff around the car on fire?
I had a less than stellar experience with a Hobart Airforce 500 (I'm fairly sure that's the one). It was 220 input with external air. It did OK for a few years but was used infrequently. One day it just went POP and I let the magic smoke out of it. Took the cover off. Did some basic troubleshooting. I couldn't find anything obvious. I ended up giving it to my uncle because I didn't have the time or temperament to futz with it. So during the spring lockdown I just, as a spur of the moment thing, ponied up and bought a fairly expensive Hypertherm. They should have never allowed them to put Amazon on phones. That's a dangerous combination. But my gosh. That Hypertherm is a freaking Cadillac compared to the Hobart. It is soooo sweet. So so much easier to use and make delicate cuts with. Not to mention the fact that it has so much more power available. It goes up to 30 amps. Get a good one. It's worth it.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:Add-on question: on a scale from "being careful with a MAP gas torch" to "blanketing the entire shop in napalm" how likely are these things to set the stuff around the car on fire?
Somewhere around "watch the angle grinder sparks", in my experience. I've caught more stuff on fire welding.
RevRico said:¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:Add-on question: on a scale from "being careful with a MAP gas torch" to "blanketing the entire shop in napalm" how likely are these things to set the stuff around the car on fire?
Somewhere around "watch the angle grinder sparks", in my experience. I've caught more stuff on fire welding.
And watch where your fingers are. A pair of leather gloves are not plasma proof.
The smoke detecter goes freaking berserk in my shop when I plasma cut.
Nothing visible in the air, but I put the detecter in a metal tin, and inside a cupboard to keep it quiet.
Probably not good for your lungs - wear a filter. I try to remember to wear one of these (also when doing a lot of grinding):
I have the jegs cheap one, a cut50 cass machine.
So far, been real happy! Done everything but 1/8 plate on 110v.
This advice may be out of date, but years ago, the cheap ones had a tendency to fail when they cut through something with bad conductivity, like rusty metal or something with too many layers of paint. For cutting clean metal, they do just fine.
I used an ESAB 220V at work some 12 years ago. ot was a hoss on everything up to 1/4". 3/8" was more of a challenge, 1/2" the limit.
A buddy got a Lincoln. I don't remember what model/etc. It had a ground lead smaller than a no.2 pencil, and patience was required with 1/8". I don't know how helpful this will be, as technology has surely changed even in the 5 years since I used that Lincoln.
My opinion was that the Lincoln was good for bodywork, CLEAN metal, and general light duty use. The ESAB was good for anything. I'd buy big if I were buying. Opinion worth exactly what was paid.
this thread has probably just cost me $250... I have a nice welder but I have always shied away from the $600 needed for a plasma cutter. This has opened my eyes to new choices.
I didn't realize they were so cheap nowadays! I've got a harbor freight one that I bought for (I think?) $350 open box. It's a great unit. Cut through some significantly thick stuff with no problem. The reason it was open box was that the contactor switch to turn it on was wrong out of the box. $14 on ebay later, one from China solved my problem.
I've used mine to cut away chunks of the PPF bolts in the diff of a Miata that was just absolutely seized in there. It was the best way to separate it so I could bang it out from the bottom. Worked great! Think of it as a more maneuverable angle grinder.
eastsideTim said:This advice may be out of date, but years ago, the cheap ones had a tendency to fail when they cut through something with bad conductivity, like rusty metal or something with too many layers of paint. For cutting clean metal, they do just fine.
Came here to say just this. My PacMaster 25 was lost in the fire I'm not nearly as into the freehand plasma thing as some people so I bought the cheapest green one on Amazon ($200 or so) worked flawlessly on clean metal left a better edge on 16ga than the ThermalDynamics did but I'm fairly certain that plasma cutter was of legal drinking age. I tried to use the Amazon special to cut some pieces of Element floor and well it never worked again. Amazon sent a replacement quickly as they do and I have kept to using it exclusively on clean metal with no issue.
Hmm. I haven't had any issues with cutting dirty or even painted steel with my cheap Chinese version. It wasn't the aboslute bottom of the barrel though, just close to it.
Good timing. I bought this AutoArc XPT 6000 off CL a few months ago for little over $100. Seemed to fire up so figured worth the risk at that price. I think it was originally made by Miller. It's only 110V and has the compressor built in. Very long leads.
Anyone ever seen one of these? I've googled the part numbers for the torch consumables out of the instruction manual but haven't gotten anywhere. Anyone familiar with the consumable parts on these things to know if there are generic replacements available, or am I SOL? I really haven't used it yet other to make it creates an arc, but would like to give it a freshen up for when I need it.
The versacut 60 I have hasn't had any issue with dirty or rusty material, beams, body panels, flat stock, it's happy.
Is does have a drag tip though, which kinda sucks because no plasma table, but saves me a ton of money because no plasma table. That said, I still have consumables it came with after 3 years, think I only changed the tip once so far.
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