In reply to wake74 :
Try universal replacement wands. That'll get you away from those no longer available consumables.
In reply to wake74 :
Try universal replacement wands. That'll get you away from those no longer available consumables.
Wear a respirator or at least a bandanna, they are very dirty. Check your kerf. One side will be much nicer, use that side on your finished piece.
The only other thing I have to add is that dry air is important. If you live in humid climates like the southeast, consider an air-drier on your compressor. I like this Motor Guard filter which seems to be a good dryer too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WZYKAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I used to have a standard desiccant filter but I took the advice of a YouTuber and just went with this one. Just check before you cut and make sure your compressed air won't fog a mirror. If it will then your cuts will likely be poor.
I bought a used miller spectrum 375 for $300 about a month ago and i absolutely love it. So far i have been giving myself excuses to use it.
In reply to RevRico :
Can you explain the drag tip / plasma table deal please?
In reply to Woody (Forum Supportum) :
I'm sure someone smarter than me will chime in, but from what I remember in my research there's a "drag tip" and a "scratch tip" (or is scratch tig?)
Anyway, the drag tip, like on my versacut 60 needs you to start the arc manually, and for some reason that doesn't mesh with plasma table controls. The benefit of this I guess, is that the tips and gun are designed to be placed directly onto the surface you're trying to cut instead of holding an air gap. That makes them a wear item, but also makes getting into tight spots a little easier.
I'm thinking now it might be more in the way the trigger works, but it's been a few years since I read into it last.
Wow, writing it out makes it sound like I have even less of a clue than I do.
In reply to RevRico :
Thank you very much.
Here's an info page from one CNC plasma table manufacturer about compatible cutters. The cheaper units use a high frequency start; the HF will destroy the electronic controls side of the CNC table.
I was at an industrial auction years ago and got a nice little older Miller plasma cutter as part of a large lot. I sold the rest of the stuff in the lot for 3x what I paid for it and kept the plasma cutter. I've used it a few times but not a lot.
I certainly don't use mine enough to warrant paying more than as little as possible.
Just to follow up on this, I ended up getting this one off Amazon:
It seems to be very good quality and works well. However, I have found two things:
1. My little HF air compressor is only marginally up to the task. It basically cycles on every 30 seconds or so while using the cutter heavily.
2. I need to upgrade my garage plugs. I think right now my main plug box that I use for most of my tools and welder is a 30A, and that circuit also has my little fridge on it. The plasma cutter trips it after about 10 seconds of cutting at max setting, so that's annoying.
Neither of these things are the fault of the plasma cutter, though, and it seems to do the job just fine, even the 1/4" steel I cut with it. I do need to practice with it more and work on keeping a steady hand. All in all, though, it seems to work well.
That said, even though I'm working on a metal-heavy project (see background of the pic), I don't find myself using the plasma cutter all that much so far, since it takes a few minutes to get out and set up (and the annoyance of the above-noted issues), so I'm still been mostly doing stuff with a hacksaw, jigsaw, or angle grinder. That said, I haven't been doing much other than straight cuts, so I'll break out the cutter when I have to make some more complicated shapes.
I have a Miller that I paid about $800 used. I have to say I'm not very happy with it. It cuts, but it leaves a rough, hard edge. I usually have to grind it after. If you don't keep the gun perfectly straight, it will cut a bevel. It's not bad if you are running along a straight edge, but it's very hard to "freehand". I sware it feels like the thing is magnetic. (Makes jerky cuts)
Anyways, I think you would be better off with a bundle of cut off wheels. They make much nicer cuts. Or maybe watch some "diablo blade" videos on utube. Haven't got one yet, but they look impressive.
Just so you know, I used mine to cut 1/4 steel and .065"-.125" stainless. Also, AR500 steel is a lot harder to cut than mild steel. (I didn't think it would make a differnce)
I borrowed a friends Eastwood 110/220 plasma cutter when building our champcar and it worked pretty well on either voltage. Of course it cut through everything we threw at it at 220, but, for most interior auto metals 110 worked just fine. It went through tips like crazy and can't comment on compressor as we have a massive one.
I find when the tip is starting to die, it cuts a bevel. Try a new tip.
If you can use some sort of template or guide to rub the torch against, you'll have better finish. I was hoping to dodge "Familial Tremors," but I won't be, so I can free-hand less and less as I get older.
The cut edge is usually somewhat "hardened" with plasma, you'll want to finish it and a grinder or sanding discs work well. A plasma-cut edge will destroy your files.
This thread lead me to this video that lead me to want a plasma cutter. Lot of neat tricks in this video
I just got a $175 ebay special cutter at the recommendation of a friend that can afford a good one but hasn't been able to kill his even through abuse. Will report back shortly.
I'm looking at this one on amazon- wanted the pilot arc, and wanted the power switch on the front (wtf with putting it on the back?)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083WLGD3G/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1LYFH23A1BXNK&psc=1
We've talked a little about the pilot arc- I get that you don't have to "scratch start" the head, but does it use fewer consumables? Can it cut dirty(er) metal because of the pilot arc, or is that only running to start? I don't have nor plan to have a CNC table because space and I'm not smart enough.
Any enlightenment?
Just to follow up, used the cutter today to do some 3/16" steel pipe and it cut through great (now that I'm using 240v and have a bigger air compressor). Still super-happy with this purchase.
Teh E36 M3 said:I'm looking at this one on amazon- wanted the pilot arc, and wanted the power switch on the front (wtf with putting it on the back?)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083WLGD3G/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1LYFH23A1BXNK&psc=1
We've talked a little about the pilot arc- I get that you don't have to "scratch start" the head, but does it use fewer consumables? Can it cut dirty(er) metal because of the pilot arc, or is that only running to start? I don't have nor plan to have a CNC table because space and I'm not smart enough.
Any enlightenment?
I bought this one. It works- don't try 3/16 without 240v but after converting to 240, straight lines with minimal scalloping. Really works nicely and I'm happy with it. It is a pilot arc unit also.
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