Learn me - Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited

We bought our 2012 JK Arctic new (6cyl,auto).  It has 130k on it and here are the repairs:

-one set of rear brake pads.  I have no idea why the rears wore out first,  but that was awhile back and everything else checked out, so who knows.  I’m more surprised the fronts are still good,  but this sees a lot of interstate miles,  so that does contribute to it.

-pass cylinder head replaced at around 115k under a factory extended warranty for that specific issue (random misfire code otherwise ran great).  

It’s been a great rig for us and will be replaced with either a new JL or CPO G550.  Weird cross-shopping I know,  but it happens.

In reply to Cotton :

G550... going from a Wrangler to a $40,000,000+ Gulfstream jet is definitely weird cross-shopping!

Toyman01 said:

You might want to look at the ten worst car brands before you buy a new Jeep. Fiat earned 1st place, followed by Jeep in the #2 slot. 

I'm pretty sure that half of Chrysler's operating profits come from their unusually high take rate on extended warranty sales.

If you buy a hard top take it through a drive through car wash before buying it so you can see if the top leaks.

Also the 3.6 had some head problems, you can research it to find more about the years affected.

Last, I towed three sport bikes through the mountains in New Mexico and Arizona. Mine was a 4 door with tow package (3500 lb rating) and the only issue was the brakes. The chassis handled it fine, but the brakes got hotter than fat girls in a phone booth. The next time I took my truck.

From a reliability perspective, most of the Jeeps aren't nearly as bad as their reputations.  They tend to be a little like German cars in that sense.  They're somewhat fussy and if neglected, they start to break.  But take care of it and they last. 

As far as how they drive, the Wrangler does still have stick axles at both ends.  It's not really meant to spend its life on pavement no matter what they say or how much they comfy up the interior. 

Had a 2012 JKU Rubicon,  so I can speak for a few issues.  

The 3.6 head problem was mainly for the first year with the engine,  mine got replaced at around 10,000 miles.  There was a problem with rotators on one of the exhaust valves,  the revised heads fixed the issue.  

A lot of people, myself included, have big issues with them eating front tires unless you rotate them every 3,000 miles or less.  My original KM's that came from the factory lasted only about 15,000 miles due to severe cupping in the front end.   Multiple alignment shops found everything in-spec.  

Towing limits are definitely NOT due to lack of power with the 3.6.   Through necessity, which I highly recommend against, I pulled my airstream from NY to South Dakota.  I estimate it was probably in the range of 7,000lbs.  The springs are way too soft to consider this a good idea.   I at least had a brake controller, electric trailer brakes, and a weight distribution/anti-sway hitch on the camper.  But it really sagged the back end.   However it never felt underpowered going through the hills of Pennsylvania or out on the open interstate. 

Rear brake pads IIRC tend to wear fast because of the hill-start assist.

Leaking front differentials are a semi-common issue too.  Easy fix, but annoying.

Expect to regularly re-paint the door hinges, they catch lots of rocks and stuff from the front tires. 

Thanks for all the feedback. It looks like we'll have a look at a few local ones soon - after a bit more digging, it looks like it's possible to equip a JK or a JL with a roof rack for a roof tent/camper rather than the more expensive Ursa Minor option. That would open the possiblity of getting a JL instead, which is - at least according to the reviews I've read so far - a much nicer on-road driving experience.

Although the Ursa Minor top is cool, going with a stand alone RTT gives you a lot more flexibility and layout options. Probably cheaper too.

I wonder if that’s an alignment issue unique to the ‘12.  I’ve got nearly 40000 on my original KMs on my ‘13.  Granted, they are quickly approaching end of life.  I’ve only ever rotated them twice. 

hhaase said:

Had a 2012 JKU Rubicon,  so I can speak for a few issues.  

The 3.6 head problem was mainly for the first year with the engine,  mine got replaced at around 10,000 miles.  There was a problem with rotators on one of the exhaust valves,  the revised heads fixed the issue.  

A lot of people, myself included, have big issues with them eating front tires unless you rotate them every 3,000 miles or less.  My original KM's that came from the factory lasted only about 15,000 miles due to severe cupping in the front end.   Multiple alignment shops found everything in-spec.  

Towing limits are definitely NOT due to lack of power with the 3.6.   Through necessity, which I highly recommend against, I pulled my airstream from NY to South Dakota.  I estimate it was probably in the range of 7,000lbs.  The springs are way too soft to consider this a good idea.   I at least had a brake controller, electric trailer brakes, and a weight distribution/anti-sway hitch on the camper.  But it really sagged the back end.   However it never felt underpowered going through the hills of Pennsylvania or out on the open interstate. 

Rear brake pads IIRC tend to wear fast because of the hill-start assist.

Leaking front differentials are a semi-common issue too.  Easy fix, but annoying.

Expect to regularly re-paint the door hinges, they catch lots of rocks and stuff from the front tires. 

 

 

If I’m not mistaken, that Ursa is a pricey piece of kit.  If you can score the Jeep for close to KBB value I’d say do it.  

ultraclyde said:

Although the Ursa Minor top is cool, going with a stand alone RTT gives you a lot more flexibility and layout options. Probably cheaper too.

Even the high end ones are noticeably cheaper, plus they transfer to other SUVs.