Clean for welding, brake cleaner is fine, but not chlorinated brake cleaner, I repeat DO NOT USE CHLORINATED BRAKE CLEANER TO CLEAN THINGS YOU WILL BE WELDING ON, the chlorinated stuff decomposes to phosgene gas in the electrical arc and it only takes a tiny amount (like less than a drop of cleaner) to permanently berkeley you up (or even kill).
Re cleaning: Acetone and dedicated stainless brushes for each metal type.
oldtin
PowerDork
7/26/16 11:04 a.m.
In reply to Rufledt:
I use a local steel supply/fabrication house. Much cheaper than stuff like online metals. After all the visits, they know me. Usually don't charge anything to grab a few bits out of their scrap pile. Latest was a dozen 1/8th inch 6x6 plates. Saved a ton of time on a cage.
In reply to Kreb:
you are absolutely correct Some of the early Maserati race car bodies were made from Cinzano signs and hammered out over stumps.. No doubt more than a few Indy cars from that era as well. My first bit's of formed aluminum were done with a dead-blow hammer and sandbag.. I eventually wound up making whole bodies with a small handful of tools and a little body filler.. Hey they were race cars and likely to be "adjusted" on the race track.
Scrap prices aren't horrible, I just returned from hauling in some old dock pieces ( little over 600 pounds) yielded me $54
Rufledt
UltraDork
7/28/16 8:57 p.m.
Ok here's another different question, what kind of 'shop' do you recommend? By this i don't mean what size garage, but lets say someone was trying to set up a garage to work on cars and was right now in the process of building shelves and work benches and stuff, what kind of area should i make? is a standard small work bench with a vice going to do? Again, the primary idea is small things and patch panels, maybe a little custom stuff, not full racecar bodies. I assume hammer and dollies don't require a giant area, and i'm probably going to pass on a giant, expensive english wheel, I just want to optimize what i can do with a minimum of tools and permanent filled space.