My boss stopped replacing the GPRs after we had a truck stolen. For months I had to shoot either in it to start. One weekend I replaced all the plugs, the harness and the relays and two weeks later the truck was stolen. If I had left it alone I would have probably just come in to dead batteries.
Thanks for the discussion.. I'm trying to figure out what the ihi and gpr is, how to test and repair them, thanks!
As a closing to the thread jack, what's the best way to test glow plugs, and are there any replacement brands to stay away from?
IDI = indirect injection.
GPR = glow plug relay
Test glow plugs by resistance to ground to see if they're within factory spec (or at least all even if you don't know factory spec). Test GPR by testing output voltage and by watching the voltage gauge on the dash. The wait to start light goes off the computer telling you how long to wait, but the glow plugs might stay on or cycle on/off based on a different signal from the computer.
Back to your regularly scheduled truck discussion 
In reply to curtis73:
Thanks!
The most common truck problems I feel like I hear about are transmission related. How are the 4r100 in the f250?
I wouldn't go diesel, any economy gained by the engine will be lost to heating literally every fluid (probably including the fuel at those temperatures) to get the thing started.
In reply to skierd:
If you're shopping a 7.3 PSD, 2000 is the best year to have.
The first year for an intercooler and the last year for forged rods. The later trucks have powdered metal rods. You'd still have to work it pretty hard to break it.
My wife's 7.3 has 275,000 miles on it and it's still going strong.
Watch for fuel puddling in the valley on the 7.3, it's a common issue, the new low-sulfur diesel eats the filter bowl o-rings. It's an easy fix at $45.00 in parts and a couple hours of your time if you're going slow but the guy selling the truck might not know it and that would give you some haggle room.
I've had no trouble from the 4R100 in her truck. It's an updated version of the E4OD that's in my '90 460 EFI.
I don't understand this discussion.
Even if I am wrong on the cold starts (though 30+ years of diesel ownership says I'm not), diesel trucks make ABSOLUTELY NO SENSE for occasional haulers.
I love diesels, but you will never recoup the price difference and the fuel cost difference if you are only occasionally driving it.
Fuel is currently more than $1 more per gallon. Batteries are expensive and MUST be fresh in cold weather. Same for GPRs, injectors, etc.
I get away with minimizing some of my diesel maintenance costs because I live in a warm climate. I also drive mine about 50K per year, so it is always running.
Diesels DO NOT like to sit.
There is an 86 F250 in the back yard. It has the 300 six and manual trans. It is completely unsophisticated but starts every time and goes everywhere. Gets the same fuel economy empty or rescuing old Saabs. We adore it.
I guess the question I was really trying to ask without sounding like a dumbass is would it be a bad idea to buy my old landlords 1975 Dodge Power Wagon club cab W200 for this? One owner truck, runs great, needs new tires and brake work, hopefully can get it for cheap since they're moving out of state. I still miss my old 77 D200, rest it's rusty soul, and I've wanted an older play vehicle for a while. Making it earn its keep wouldn't be bad either.
Otherwise, I'm pretty sure and set on the F250 since it'll come with a water tank too and is obviously capable for just about anything I'd need. It's a 99 I think btw, not a 97, the newer body style.
I can't see any reason an old truck won't do what you need it to. It's not like you are moving it at interstate speeds for 100s of miles. Buy whatever you like.
In reply to skierd:
Only if you don't mind being seen in a Dodge.
Here's the homestead fwiw
In reply to skierd:
I don't see why not if it's cheap and you trust it. Though personally, if buying a truck with "power wagon" badges on it, I'd go all or nothing.
skierd wrote:Here's the homestead fwiw
Glad you like that but jeebus that looks rough. I want to move further south as it is!
I filled up the bed of a half ton pickup to make a pool once. Basically the same thing.
How about an old FD brush truck? 4X4, 3/4T or better, water tank (usually 250-300 gal.), should be well maintained. Pump installed unless it's a keeper.
This is GRM. What about a Miata and a Harbor Freight trailer holding a 55 gallon drum?
But seriously, the Dodge sounds perfect.
SVreX wrote: Diesels DO NOT like to sit.
This I will 100% agree with. My Cummins suffered greatly from the amount of time is sat in my driveway. Without working A/C, I wouldn't drive it most of the Summers. Weeks on end.
A W200 should work fine. It's a truck. It's 4WD. Being that era, probably full-time with a NP208 transfer case. Should be non-catalyst as well. A simple, tough truck.
In reply to Kenny_McCormic:
Maybe you haven't priced these recently, but there's no way in hell he'll find a running truck in his price range. The truck you pictured would have an asking price every bit of $30K. I still kick myself for not being able to pick up a parts-project Power Wagon for $2500. And that was 10 years ago. They've increased in value since.
my vote would be for the best pre-obd2 big block 3/4 to 1 ton 4x4 long bed truck you can get for the money, you can find decent ones (atleast around here) for easy money after people get tired of putting gas into there big block truck
As someone who knows AK is cold and that's about it, is a well not a possibility at all?
Ian F wrote: In reply to Kenny_McCormic: Maybe you haven't priced these recently, but there's no way in hell he'll find a running truck in his price range. The truck you pictured would have an asking price every bit of $30K. I still kick myself for not being able to pick up a parts-project Power Wagon for $2500. And that was 10 years ago. They've increased in value since.
I kinda figured, PTO winch would be a good thing to have in AK though.
SVreX wrote: I don't understand this discussion. Even if I am wrong on the cold starts (though 30+ years of diesel ownership says I'm not), diesel trucks make ABSOLUTELY NO SENSE for occasional haulers. I love diesels, but you will never recoup the price difference and the fuel cost difference if you are only occasionally driving it. Fuel is currently more than $1 more per gallon. Batteries are expensive and MUST be fresh in cold weather. Same for GPRs, injectors, etc. I get away with minimizing some of my diesel maintenance costs because I live in a warm climate. I also drive mine about 50K per year, so it is always running. Diesels DO NOT like to sit.
I don't know if I agree or disagree on this... any reason I would have for not recommending a diesel in this situation revolves around two things; 1- it is Alaska and I won't deny that extreme cold does have some drawbacks on diesels. A new diesel, no problem. An older one that fits the budget, maybe not. 2- he doesn't need it for his use.
I will call you out on the money part. You could buy a diesel that gets worse MPG than a gas truck and still save money. Resale. Period. GPRs are $40 and he would have to replace one every 25 years with his use. He'll save money on fuel, and resale will make a HUGE difference even if he runs it into the ground.
If he's making weekly trips, his diesel wouldn't "sit." I've had 8 diesel trucks in the last two decades, all of which could easily sit for months at a time and still fire up like you just drove them yesterday.
My point is not to sell the OP a diesel, my point is that I'm really tired of the 1965 mentality of diesels being such awful maintenance pigs and you should only buy one if you tow 6 million pounds for 10,000 miles a day. Its just not true. At all. I have had plenty of daily driver diesels, and some that I only used for the RV season. To me, the insane benefits outweigh the miniscule drawbacks.
... and whoever suggested an F250 with the straight six and a manual.... brilliant. Lovely choice.
Resale is only a plus if you plan to sell it. This sounds like it will spend the rest of its days working on his land so the higher cost of the diesel would be a negative.
In reply to curtis73:
I have heard your defense of diesel cost of ownership over the life, and generally agree (that's why I own a diesel).
However, you need to look at the math again.
At today's fuel prices, purchase prices, and resale prices, it is no longer true that it is cheaper. That may change again, but right now it is not true.
He will pay more when he purchase and recoup it when he sells. He will use less fuel, but pay 50% more for it and therefore spend more on fuel. That is today's math.
Keep in mind his price point. $5k will buy a well worn diesel with extremely high mileage that will ultimately sell for about $4k, or a pretty nice gas burner that will ultimately sell for $3k. He will not recoup the fuel differential.
Your assertion is correct at a different price point, but not at $5k.
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