Learn Me P71s

I'm looking pretty seriously at P71s. So far I've learned that I want an 04+

What else do I need to know? I'd prefer if it had a spotlight and the push bar, fwiw.

what's there to know? proper big full framed 4 door sedan with a proper V8 but saddled with an improper automatic transmission..

What's a clean 04 with a push bar worth? What should I watch out for? Should I be scared of the automatic? What's the "J-Mod?"

I thought they are only automatic

They are; I'm just wondering about its reputation.

You want an 03+. That's the year they changed the frame, suspension, steering, and brakes. The wheel offsets are identical to the 05-13 Mustang, so you can get cheap take-offs, and the brakes swap over relatively easily as well (not that it needs them). The steering box becomes a rack and pinion (it's recirculating ball in the 02-), and the suspension gets a lot better.

In a pinch an 01-02 will do (that's what I had) as they still have the ~230HP "Performance Improved" (PI) 4.6L SOHC, as opposed to the non-PI in the 98-00's that was a total slug (and less than 220HP).

Other stuff, spotlights and push bumpers are stupid easy to mount and find, don't pay more than $100 extra for either one. The automatic is a 4R70W and one of the best OD auto's ever made, they are robust, geared nicely, and you can easily install a manual valve body or an electronic paddle-shifter setup. The J-Mod is drilling out some holes in the valve body for firmer shifts, designed by the trans designer himself. That plus a tuner that can control the trans as well (I had and like the Superchips) will make it a stunningly good auto-box.

Things to be afraid of, the heads only have 3 threads per spark plug, and they will randomly spit the plugs clean out. Some cars never do it, others launch all 8. Mine did 2 in rapid succession and then never again. Re-torquing your plugs every oil change helps. Repair can be done with the heads on. That's about it.

Make sure the VIN actually reads "P71" if you want all the goodies (aluminum driveshaft. PS cooler, HD trans cooler, HD suspension, stiffer springs, bigger F&R swaybars, LSD, better calipers, etc).

Awesome, thanks! Is it true that the stock seats have "stab plates?"

Oh, and what kind of improvements would I see with an intake/exhaust/chip?

Make sure to put a trans cooler on if it you plan to tow.

It should have one, no?

Tom Suddard wrote: What else do I need to know? I'd prefer if it had a spotlight and the push bar, fwiw.

They are big, ugly, drive like E36 M3 and you'll never get laid driving one.

Much disappointment.

kinda crappy mileage if thats a concern for you. Civilian versions had 2.71 (i believe) rear ends. Interceptors had 3.27-3.9 rear ends. I forget the exact numbers at this point, its been a while since i had mine... I never ever ever got over 18 mpg. Worst was...10.x. mpg.

If they got better mpg i might still consider one. If its the "cop car" look your going for maybe check out the chargers or impalas or tahoe?

Tom, I THINK the stab plates in the seats were optional, not standard, but I could be wrong. You can get ballistic protection for the front doors, too, but that's aftermarket. Go Rhino and others make skid plates for under-car protection, in case you want to go exploring and the Trooper is unavailable. (Also, I hear there's this thing called "Rallycross.")

How are they for towing? I'd prefer a large, body-on-frame sedan to a jacked-up SUV.

Can they pull a 2800 lbs racecar on an open trailer?

I'd prefer an 03+, but I loved the low sitting look of my old 99. The 99 is the only lowered P71, so what I'm getting at is grab an 03+ and slap some springs from the 99 and have some fun in your super sweet dropped P71.

Stealth, I believe the stab plates were standard, but I highly doubt a department would let ballistic doors go.

For Rallycross, I'd leave the higher springs on.

I doubt there will be any problems towing a few thousand lbs.

amg_rx7 wrote:

Tom Suddard wrote: What else do I need to know? I'd prefer if it had a spotlight and the push bar, fwiw.

They are big, ugly, drive like E36 M3 and you'll never get laid driving one.

I disagree (I've autocrosswd one), but thank you for your input.

Oh, and the gf loves them. :D

You absolutely want an 03+, as has been said. I was about to buy an 04 before the seller couldn't come up with a title, and I bought my 03 instead. 04 is when they got the Marauder's intake, which boosted HP from 239 to 250. Honestly, I floored both cars and couldn't tell the difference, but my butt is not an effective dyno. If you get an 03 you could swap the later intake on and get the same power gains.

I believe the stab plates were standard equipment, which is extremely handy if you have friends in the back who might get angry when they can't get out because of the disabled interior rear door handles.

A variety of diffs were available - different ratios as CarKid1989 said, and different types - open, LSD, and locker. I have a locker and love it.

The best advice I can give you is SHOP AROUND. What you don't want is a 200k mile black and white from a big city that's been run hard 24/7, put away wet, and has hopped more curbs and idled more hours than their drivers have eaten donuts. What you do want is something like I found - an unmarked sergeant's car from a small town in NH with a full service logbook from the police department that owned it. Yes, I know the transmission was rebuilt at 90k miles. I even know when they replaced a burnt out strobe bulb. The 04 I almost bought with title issues was a UConn campus police car that had never seen a single pursuit. Some P71s have never even seen real police duty, even though they're set up for it. Governments might have bought a bunch at once and set aside one or two for public works or other departments.

Finally, many of these cars have already had two-way radios installed in them, often with NMO mounts. Just screw on your ham radio antenna and go. Plenty of room for radios between the front seats. My car came with an aftermarket center console, and I used some scrap wood to build an addition that holds my dual band and HF rigs. You can even get a dual mic clip that bolts to the dashboard with existing screws and no drilling.

For what it's worth, I think my unmodified automatic is one of the better autos I've driven. It shifts aggressively when I want it to, and not when I don't. (I think P71s get a more aggressive shift program, but I'm not positive - it's not as aggressive as a J-mod.) For autocross or rallycross, drop the shifter all the way down to 1. It'll hold 1st until about 45mph, upshift to 2nd at redline (yes, I know the shifter is in 1), then drop back to 1st at about 25mph. It takes a little getting used to but it's almost the way I'd be shifting it manually anyway.

There's a bunch of good info in a thread from a bit over a year ago, where I asked exactly the same question as you. I'm happy to exchange notes.

Tom Suddard wrote: Awesome, thanks! Is it true that the stock seats have "stab plates?" Oh, and what kind of improvements would I see with an intake/exhaust/chip?

Yes, my car's original seats, and the replacement seats I got locally, both had them.

I did the K&N CAI, a Superchips canned tune, and a 2.5" cat-back with Flowmaster 40's and ran 14'8's @ 95 (that would be over 255HP to the rear wheels using a drag calculator).

mtn wrote: Make sure to put a trans cooler on if it you plan to tow.

P71's have a big stand-alone unit, stock. P72's and lessor have the one that sits in a radiator end tank.

Don't bother with the J-mod on a P71. As was said, the P71 already has a more aggressive shift map. With the J-mod, the 1-2 shift snaps pretty hard. I wouldn't recommend it for a primarily street car.

Hmmm, this is sounding better and better!

Alan, have you had one?

geez tom, first day at GRM or what?

Alan Cesar wrote: Don't bother with the J-mod on a P71. As was said, the P71 already has a more aggressive shift map. With the J-mod, the 1-2 shift snaps pretty hard. I wouldn't recommend it for a primarily street car.

I was concerned this would be the case when I j-modded my car.

then at the last minute i went all out and used the biggest drill bit you're supposed to try + left the bottom springs out completely. I did not regret my decision. It was firm, but by no means harsh, imo. and this was WITH a blue-oval tune that addresses transmission behavior as well.

Why go P71? Many have been beat to death. I"d go for a civilian version that's had the typical little old lady driver.

Early cars have weak rear axle shafts so plan on replacing the shafts and bearing. I'd go for an earlier car before they cheapend up the front LCA's and adjustment. I forget which year as I was gone from the program around launch.

If you go for a civi car you can replace the rear gears when you do the axle shafts and add a real LSD at the same time. Aftermarkt HD trans cooler or retro fit a cop version. Better apointed inseide etc