Today I barely got my MR2's rear caliper pistons retracted, pretty well destroying my cheapo generic parts store cube tool in the process.
I have always hated screw-in pistons. Seems as if every car I've ever done this job on has given me absolute fits. Point me toward a tool that makes this job suck less, please.
In reply to Will: Just went through this with my mk4 Jetta. Used a NAPA screw type loaner that cost me nothing. I don't think anything less would have worked.
http://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-18-pc-69053.html
The harbor freight version works great!
I've got the set below and it has worked great on my RX8.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IB40L6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I should also mention that anything that makes it easier to do the job with the calipers still on the car is a huge plus. One of the big problems today was the caliper bracket preventing a straight shot with a ratchet, and removing one of the slider bolts to provide that access just lets the caliper flop all over.
This is the cat's pajamas of caliper twisting tools:
https://jet.com/product/detail/0f6a366ade9a4d1ab9a4273c6d7f769a?jcmp=pla:ggl:brands_vehicles_parts_a1:vehicle_parts_accessories_motor_vehicle_parts_motor_vehicle_braking_a1_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=b0405462-9a66-46f7-92c6-e1a02fd635b0&gclid=CJirj-SMo8kCFYplfgodFNEJIQ
If you have an air source. Uses air pressure to push in so you're only twisting yourself. No fiddling with two wrenches or accidentally binding the tool up because something screwed in the wrong way, etc.
carzan wrote: Basically like this: NAPA tool
I have the one. Works great. It was a brand new loaner at autozone so I told them I was not returning. There sell price was cheaper than anywhere else. Mine was borrowed and not returned years ago and i had been getting by with the cube. The cube fore some reason never fit the calipers on my mustang right.
Really a case of having a better tool makes a job that much less of a pita.
Another +1 on the loaner tool. I hate those god awful cubes. Although rear brakes are something I won't touch on a DD anymore. I will gladly pay the shop to deal with it.
If you're having that much trouble getting them screwed in, maybe it's time for a caliper rebuild? Maybe just a good application of penetrating lube could help? I've never had a problem with the cube as long as I've applied pressure while turning.
I just use needle-nose pliers on the Saturn.
Pro tip: peel back the rubber boot and spray a bit of white lithium grease into the piston edge to keep the boot from being trapped by the piston, and also to get some around the twisting bits to keep from seizing up/help move smoothly.
flatlander937 wrote: Pro tip: peel back the rubber boot and spray a bit of white lithium grease into the piston edge to keep the boot from being trapped by the piston, and also to get some around the twisting bits to keep from seizing up/help move smoothly.
Silicone spray is what I use, although I've used K&N filter oil in a pinch.
But if the piston doesn't twist back in, then it is time to get some reman calipers. There is a little ratchet and leadscrew in the piston, when you push the piston out the ratchet turns, and when you rotate the piston back in you are threading the ratchet back down on the leadscrew (which is what the handbrake arm pushes against). These are generally items that you can't buy separately, and are also the reason why you had to do brakes in the first place.
Unless it's a VW. For some reason, VW (ATE) managed to figure out how to make rear calipers that don't fail.
Needle nose pliers for the few I have done without the flat black disc retractor tool. The cube of death is garbage.
If I caliper doesn't want to retract, I've always taken the reservoir cap loose and/or cracked the bleeder to allow the pressures to equalize and it makes it a bit easier to get them started.
One thing I always do is remove the caliper bracket and caliper. Remove the rotor and then re-install the caliper and bracket. You now have a straight shot at the piston and it's not going to move since it's attached to the car. I have also drilled holes in some caliper pistons so I can use those "round" style tools when it only has slots. I like my VW Scriocco race car as the pistons come with a "hex" machined into the piston. I only need a large metric allen wrench to put it back in place.
Very careful use of locking pliers on the face of the piston combined with a table vice can do the job...if those jaws touch the sides of the piston you're berkeleyed though.
jimbbski wrote: One thing I always do is remove the caliper bracket and caliper. Remove the rotor and then re-install the caliper and bracket. You now have a straight shot at the piston [snip]
In the case of this particular car, that is not correct, which was a big part of the problem. The caliper bracket is in the way.
tomtomgt356 wrote: I've got the set below and it has worked great on my RX8. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IB40L6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, same here. The Taurus seems to need rear pads every 20k miles, and this tool has done the job perfectly. I believe Adrian used it on the rears when he did his C30, as well.
I've got one of those (HF I think) … but honestly I've had just as good a luck with a large square sided screw driver … I can hold it in the cross on the screw in part and turn it 90° at a time .. actually seems just as easy if not easier than messing with one of those adapters
I prefer this caliper tool 
In reply to Spoolpigeon:
That's pretty clever, but for regular pistons, I still use a good old-fashioned C-clamp.
Spoolpigeon wrote: I prefer this caliper tool
those won't work on the rear calipers with parking brakes …they have to be screwed in… but I'm guessing you knew that
This is gonna be hard to beat at $30. Dunno how long it will stay this price.
carzan wrote: This is gonna be hard to beat at $30. Dunno how long it will stay this price. Neiko Caliper Tool Set
That is basically what I have. Works ok. Works a lot better than channel locks on the piston.. Not that I have ever done that.
I use channel locks on the pistons … wrap the jaws with duct tape and no damage to the pistons
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