So, say i had a vortech v2 supercharger and a 5.0 ford Motor from a 87 lincoln town car. This motor is bone stock, equipped with a map sensor, and runs great.
I also have some 30lb injectors i got for $20.
How would we do this the cheapest and best way possible for the challenge? No megasquirt or stuff, were hitting pretty close to budget cap if we go this way.
You need to add fuel and retard timing as boost goes up- there may be a cheap way to do that with your arrangement, there may not. What does it have for ignition?
Stock lincoln town car ignition.
I was thinking that we would need something like a boost reference fuel pressure regulator. Forgot about timing. Also, since its map based, have to do something about that.
I think you would be better off not supercharging it and MegaSquirting it. This will add performance and reliability.
Supercharging it will add a lot of heat to shed and you will be chasing the tune which is a bad place to be under boost.
Good drivers and better suspension will make a quicker car than just adding boost.
Good drivers are the teams weak point. Dallas has 1 autocross, i suck, and i have no idea about steve.
Suspension is getting heavily modified.
The town car drivetrain is in an amc spirit.....
Ignition- Looks like a distributor, can you control/limit the advance somehow?
Fuel- I think the stock FPR will rise with boost as is, it's referenced to manifold pressure right? There may be limits to how far it will go. You also need to feed it enough fuel, maybe run multiple fuel pumps or one from a big truck for a junkyard solution?
No matter what I'm pretty sure it will be a little bit of a time bomb, definitely not a safe way to go about it- but I'm happy to sit back and watch 
its actually going to be a HUGE time bomb. add two stages of nitrous as well.....
any ideas on where to go/how to search for the information? I know I cant be the first guy to do this wrong. after all, weren't a lot of 5.0 mustangs map based?
Dusterbd13 wrote: its actually going to be a HUGE time bomb. add two stages of nitrous as well..... any ideas on where to go/how to search for the information? I know I cant be the first guy to do this wrong. after all, weren't a lot of 5.0 mustangs map based?
87(or 86?) - 88 were speed density. After that, they switched to MAF, which in my limited understanding is way better at compensating for more air.
Keep it under 6lbs of boost and you don't really need to mess with the timing and you really do not need an intercooler (does not hurt to add one through).
You will have to run 93 or better fuel.
You need a bracket to mount it and I think there is a change to one of the belt tensioners.
There is an adapter that goes between the OPS and the block that you tap for the oil feed to the head unit (with the proper restrictor) and you need to plumb a return line to the pan.
The rest is just plumbing and putting your MAF and IAT in the correct place.
I had issues with my V2 a while back using the engine oil. The early V2's had cold weather issues that lead to oil starvation. If I was to do it again I would run a 2-quart oiling system with a small electric pump and maybe a transmission cooler in line. I would then call Redline or Amsoil and use what ever oil they recommended.
So it looks like the mustang guys do this with moderate success. They use an fmu and check valve for the map sensor.
Any grm options for these?
I thought about doing a pressure switch in the intake track at say 4 psi that would activate a fuel injector(s) at 100% duty cycle also in the intake track. Not the proper way of doing it but if you're on a budget ...
NAPA Hobbs switch Balkamp 701-1575
Quick search shows that as I thought I'm not the first to come up with this idea.
Care to share some links? This may be a good, challenge budget solution vs fmu or boost reference regulator
Stampie wrote: I thought about doing a pressure switch in the intake track at say 4 psi that would activate a fuel injector(s) at 100% duty cycle also in the intake track. Not the proper way of doing it but if you're on a budget ... NAPA Hobbs switch Balkamp 701-1575 Quick search shows that as I thought I'm not the first to come up with this idea.
You can do this but instead of fuel spray a mixture of water and methanol. The water will act as a chemical intercooler and the meth will not only raise knock resistance but add fuel you need too. When i added water meth to a fuel injected turbo car i had to adjust my water/meth mixture because it was going too rich. I built my own kit with chinese and used nitrous parts for less than $100
And use a micro pressure switch instead hobbs. More accurate, cheaper and more easily adjustable
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Search "Turbo Hobbs switch" and you'll get enough turbo porn to last for several nights of reading.
In reply to chiodos:
That is a better way of doing it but for Challenge budget reasons my thought process was coming off the fuel rail to supply the fuel injector. That avoids the added expense of a different tank for your mixture and a pump for it. Again not the "right" way of doing things but the Challenge will cause you to do and try things that you normally wouldn't.
Use a cold start injector off a CIS-equipped car and you don't have to worry about running an injector at fully duty cycle and having it fail, plus they tend to come with mounting flanges that makes them easier to mount on intakes, etc.
You can run gas or meth through them.
Here's some cheap tricks for adding more fuel on turbo and supercharger solutions:
http://www.gusmahon.org/html/fuel.htm
Good luck!
Ok, so lets get back to basics here. Just to make sure im heading down the right rabbit hole.
A supercharger install needs
Correct? Any basics im missing? This is my first ever foray into supercharging anything, and im using the challenge car as my classroom. The vortech will be removed after the challenge and installed into my megasquirt controlled 70 duster. Any parts i can reuse will definitely be a bonus.
Ok, so will a vacuum reference fuel pressure regulator (ebay special) add fuel when boost is added? Im thinking primarily about the 5.0 one (stock), but dont want to buy a good one for the challenge car if the duster won't beed it.
Also, any diy fmu? Seems like the easy way to deal with fueling the challenge car.
Lastly: is a boost pressure valve necessary or optional?
Back in the day I had a MSD 6BTM that would retard timing with boost. I hated it.
I have an ebay special vacuum reference regulator on the datsun, and it's a very nice piece. I have the vacuum port capped so i get steady 60psi for n/a. I wouldn't doubt its made in the same factory or at least right across the street from the one aeromotive's parts are made at because it's a direct copy of theirs down to the colors of the anodizing, except it comes with a bunch of braided hose and fittings and costs 35% as much.
Dusterbd13 wrote: So, say i had a vortech v2 supercharger and a 5.0 ford Motor from a 87 lincoln town car. This motor is bone stock, equipped with a map sensor, and runs great. I also have some 30lb injectors i got for $20. How would we do this the cheapest and best way possible for the challenge? No megasquirt or stuff, were hitting pretty close to budget cap if we go this way.
Find a used FMU. it's a device that will trick the computer into richening the fuel mixture as boost is gained.. New they used to sell for about $85 and I found a used one for $35. With that I got a stone stock Jag V12 and two junkyard Saab turbo's within a whisper of 500 horsepower.. There is even more power if you use E85 (if those injectors are big enough) plus the engine will run cooler, less likely to detonate, and cleaner with E85
Dusterbd13 wrote: Ok, so lets get back to basics here. Just to make sure im heading down the right rabbit hole. A supercharger install needs 1. Mounting bracket. 2. Belt and tensioner with as much belt wrap as possible. 3. Ducting from blower outlet to throttle body. 4. Air filter for the inlet side. 5. Added fuel in relation to boost. 6. Source of oil. 7. Less timing. Correct? Any basics im missing? This is my first ever foray into supercharging anything, and im using the challenge car as my classroom. The vortech will be removed after the challenge and installed into my megasquirt controlled 70 duster. Any parts i can reuse will definitely be a bonus.
You may not need less timing, depends on compression and fuel used. Alcohol based fuel tolerate more timing..
In reply to Dusterbd13 :find what is called a FMU
fuel modification unit they cost about $85 new 1/2 that used
what they do is measure how much boost you are producing and trick the computer into adding fuel.
Start out way too rich and lean it to proper mixture as you become familiar with supercharging
another trick is to spray alcohol as boost goes up
alcohol cools the inlet charge and really helps things live and make power
E85 is 30-85% alcohol depending on your source or you can buy it in 5 gallon cans or 55gallon drums with a good gas as a base instead of the low grade tar they use for pump fuel
one final option is to use methanol
serious power gain and really a cheap fuel. But really nasty stuff make sure you don't spill any on you or breath the fumes.
a bunch of 80's beamers (beemers?) had cold injector valves if you go that route. Look for something in the yard that ends in a lower case "e" (325e/528e). The injector is right opposite end of the intake manifold from the throttle body and right on top of the engine.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :timing might not need to change if you buy high enough octane .
Alcohol has really high octane 114 or 116 ethanol is 114 And methanol is 116
Plus alcohol gives a really great charge cooling effect.
Dusterbd13 said:Good drivers are the teams weak point. Dallas has 1 autocross, i suck, and i have no idea about steve.
Suspension is getting heavily modified.
The town car drivetrain is in an amc spirit.....
Easy. Do what we did in autocross. Had my buddy and fellow mississippian John Thomas drive 2 autocrosses as our "Pro" driver. He's coming back this year.
Never heard of JT? He holds the SCCA record of 17 CONSECUTIVE Solo II National championships. AND 8 consecutive Pro Solo national championships. He shaved 4.5 seconds off our team best times. Easy button.
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