Learn me: Wheel Paint

Just like the title says. I have nearly new sliver aluminum wheels I want black.

Plan is to scuff with red scotch brite or 320 grit, and paint.

Now paints: Rustoleum, Duli-color, VHT all make rattle can "wheel paint". Anyone have input? I also can use a conventional spay gun if there is something better.

GO!

I've used VHT many times with very good results. Like most things, prep is everything.

I've used Rustoleum many times with great results.

In reply to DaveEstey:

I have used other VHT stuff and always liked it. Agree on prep, they will have less than a couple hundred miles on them, so should clean up nicely. I get them off the car for a couple days to prep and paint.

In reply to Lof8:

Thanks! Rustoleum appears to have only flat or matte black, have you used the matte? How shiny is it?

I use Rustoleum Professional. The RAV4 has Flat Black applied with a HF HVLP gun. Easy to touch up too after tire changes, balancing, etc. Just dab with a brush.

Dr. Hess wrote: I use Rustoleum Professional. The RAV4 has Flat Black applied with a HF HVLP gun. Easy to touch up too after tire changes, balancing, etc. Just dab with a brush.

Like this? Auto paint or Enamel?

Shake the cans well. Apply thin, misty coats. Scuff with a scotch brite pad in between coats to let the next layer adhere. Make sure it's warm outside and not humid. Otherwise the orange peel effect will come and take away your reasons for rejoicing. (Even if you are doing it indoors.)

java230 wrote: In reply to DaveEstey: In reply to Lof8: Thanks! Rustoleum appears to have only flat or matte black, have you used the matte? How shiny is it?

I did a set 2 weeks ago with Rustoleum gloss black. I've never used the flat or matte.

In reply to Lof8:

Flat is nice because it doesn't run as easy and is easily repaired. Also, it looks like brake dust and that's awesome for washing the car.

Lof8 wrote:

java230 wrote: In reply to DaveEstey: In reply to Lof8: Thanks! Rustoleum appears to have only flat or matte black, have you used the matte? How shiny is it?

I did a set 2 weeks ago with Rustoleum gloss black. I've never used the flat or matte.

In their wheel paint?

I've used the Dupli-Color wheel paint in silver and gun metal gray. I've gotten great results from them. Trick is to follow the directions on the can. Multiple coats need to be done within a certain time period, otherwise the paint will wrinkle. The clear coat makes a huge difference on the finish. It really hides the orange peel that is pretty much inevitable with rattle cans. Treat it just like another layer of the color. If you wait too long it will make the underlying layers wrinkle.

Trackmouse wrote: Shake the cans well. Apply thin, misty coats. Scuff with a scotch brite pad in between coats to let the next layer adhere. Make sure it's warm outside and not humid. Otherwise the orange peel effect will come and take away your reasons for rejoicing. (Even if you are doing it indoors.)

don't scuff between coats. paint is carried in solvent and even when dry to the touch, it still is not fully cured. a second coat will bond to the first for a few hours without any physical prep.

be sure to use a wax and grease remover. Use a etch primer and allow that to dry overnight and skuff that up. Use wax and grease remover again before painting. try not to handle the wheels for a few days after painting.

rattle can clear coat is not worth the effort.

java230 wrote:

Lof8 wrote:

java230 wrote: In reply to DaveEstey: In reply to Lof8: Thanks! Rustoleum appears to have only flat or matte black, have you used the matte? How shiny is it?

I did a set 2 weeks ago with Rustoleum gloss black. I've never used the flat or matte.

In their wheel paint?

I use straight up Rustoleum. Never tried the wheel-specific stuff. Its lasted for years on my track cars. I've used bright orange, baby blue, gloss black, all in the $3/can regular rustoleum and great durable results every time.

And I second the "no need for clear coat" comment.

In reply to Rusnak_322:

Really? I didn't think about hat before. I'll have to try that next time I'm huffing fumes lol.

I use engine paint and wheel clear. No problems, ever.

Primer yay or nay?

Nay I just cleaned, scuffed, cleaned and sprayed.

java230 wrote: Primer yay or nay?

If you have bear metal, corrosion or bubbling paint, use a etching primer. If you have scratches that you don't or can't sand out, a high build filling primer will help hide them.

If the factory finish is holding up, then it is optional.

I've also used duplicolor & vht with good success, my miata rims are around 10 years old but still look pretty good. I've never tried doing it without clearcoat.

Does it seriously clean up as easily without it?

I've had good results with Rustoleum appliance enamel- tough, cheap, lays down nicely on any moderately clean surface.

Thanks for all the input!

On factory nearly new rims, so I shouldn't need primer.

Im interested in the Rustoleum "professional" it is used by many aluminum boat guys as well, they thin and add a hardener to it and roll or spray......

This is for my wife's new car, I need it to look good....

WonkoTheSane wrote: I've also used duplicolor & vht with good success, my miata rims are around 10 years old but still look pretty good. I've never tried doing it without clearcoat. Does it seriously clean up as easily without it?

No. Besides a big improvement in looks, the clearcoat keeps the brake dust from sticking to the color. I've painted wheels with and without the clear, the silver paint starts to yellow without the added protection of the clear.

I used the Duplicolor "High Performance Wheel Coating" to refinish some Mercedes rims in metallic silver about three years ago.

My feelings on the product are mixed. The silver went down very strangely, and showed a lot of lumpy orange peel. The clear flattened it all right out though. The end result is a decent finish, but if you look closely, the silver definitely looks strange. I snapped this photo in the garage a few minutes ago, and it looks like it has a lot of orange peel, but in sunlight it really looks factory. Just strange when you look closely.

Keep in mind this wheel has three years of driving on it:

I should also add that the wheels have been easy to maintain: brake dust wipes off easily. The paint is pretty thick, and the subsequent chips in it are pretty deep. I'd also mention that I didn't bother to clean the wheel in the photo above.

I'm guessing that's due to the factory finish... The factory finish of aluminum wheels is silver paint on top of it, and I don't think they're all that careful when they coat 'em.