In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
No known issues that I have seen. BUT.... this car has been a bit of a one-off due to it's sitting for 18 months. They don't have issues with bearings, yet it needed both fronts. ball joints either, yet it needed both. Corrosion on the Knock sensor interfering with knock detection destroying a coil and plugs. She's been a problem child. Still love her.... just not as much because of her younger sister in the garage.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I would think a trans issue wouldnt just be speed dependent, you should be able to make it worse or better by loading it or unloading it in my experience
In reply to Opti :
yeah... see post above. This little bugger has never done things normal or expected.
I look forward to hearing of a resolution. My Chevy Volt has a similar issue that developed after I switched out the wheel bearings and axles (which were whining and clicking, respectively).
I first thought of control arms, as there was also an inconsistent feeling in the handling that was similar to a bad control arm bushing on a car I had years ago. I replaced both, and there was some improvement but the vibration remains.
Like your car the vibration is minor below 35mph and highly pronounced between 40 and 50mph. It smooths out to almost nothing. It is very throttle sensitive, but less sensitive to regen and braking than you described.
My tires are end of life and demonstrate off wear patterns. I'm hoping tires and an alignment will help. If not, then I'm scratching my head on which to try first:
Fixing the fex pipe issue from the previous track day, had hte car on stands. Run i up to the magical range and no vibration. That was unloaded and at full droop, but no vibration at 40-50. I guess this points to hte rear but other than the beam itself everythng else has been changes (calipers, rotors,pads, lines, bearings).
In reply to bobzilla :
Do you have any spare (bare) wheels and a dial indicator?
I would be very curious about what the front hubs' radial runout is. Are?
Checking with a wheel adds a little complexity but you can rotate the wheel 180 degrees (or 144, if you are five lug) and measure again. Important to check the wheel, not the rotor, since the pilots may be true but the wheel studs off axis.
Yeah, they have been changed, but they may have been changed with another bad part.
Full droop almost certainly eliminates a CV issue, at least. I think.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
At this point I no longer care. It's not a major issue that's going to affect the cars performance. Just an annoyance at that speed.
the hubs were replaced the year before, and they were fine for quite some time. If I change something and it fixes it I'll update. But I'm not wasting anymore brain power on it.
You'll need to log in to post.
