Lowering S197 Mustang questions

I bought a set of wheels for my Mustang on clearance last year, and I've been waiting to wear out the current tires enough to justify buying the new wide rubber to put the new wheels on the car. I'll be moving from 17x8s with 255/50s up to 18x9s with 275/45s. Since I'll probably get a bonus this year, I've been thinking about lowering the car at the same time.

Current setup is Tokico D-Spec adjustable struts/shocks (still good, will reuse) with factory springs and BMR Fab F&R antisway bars. Mostly street driven with occasional autox and at least one future track day planned. Just from a visual standpoint, I'd like to go with a 1" drop, not a 1.5". I've been looking at the Ford "P-Springs" and the Steeda Sport Springs. Both are 1" drop, but the Ford springs are progressive rate and the Steedas are straight rate. Thoughts on the difference?

I'm planning on replacing the front strut isolaters (of course) and adding an adjustable panhard bar, but will I need to get camber bolts to get it back in spec or will it handle an inch on factory parts?

I'm sure I won't need camber plates, but if I could find a deal on them, the cost of the GT500 Isolaters + camber bolts could be getting close. Add that to the reusability of camber plates vs throw-away isolaters and I might be able to justify it...

And for another $100, I might throw on some lower control arms too. You know, while I'm in there...

If you're serious about this you should get camber bolts. You don't technically want "factory spec" because the suspension geometry isn't factory and you're theoretically going to want the car to do stuff that the factory didn't intend.

I don't know what your goals are for this car, but you may want to consider camber plates because they offer more adjustability and are easier to manipulate than crash bolts.

I would get the Steeda. Progressive rate springs are much better than straight-rate springs. Or at least that's what I've heard.

Go for camber plates, and set a good alignment. Progressive rate springs are easier to live with, but allow more roll. Basically, the more the progressive springs get compressed, the stiffer they get.

The site I was looking at was using the wrong photo - apparently the springs for the same year GT500 are straight-rate, and that's the picture they had up. Assuming that the Steeda site has it right, which I would bet on. So...it's progressives either way...

So I can either do crash bolts and GT500 isolators for $140 give or take, or do camber plates for $250. So the difference in cost is almost exactly one set of isolaters. Assuming I get 3 sock changes out of the plates (which have a lifetime warranty, fwiw) I'm making money...

Steeda says the Sport springs are good for lowered street/ occasional auto-x/ track day. They are linear rate (straight) F&R. There was some confusion w/ the images and write-up on one page on their site as to progressive rear rate springs.

Call 'em for your set up: Phone: 1-800-950-0774

I thought people were running the gt500 mounts and turning them to get camber were they wanted it.

Its easier for the non-witchdoctor to tune dampers with linear rate coils.

If autocross is in your future, a call to Sam at Stranoparts wouldn't hurt. He's had some success tuning S197 Mustangs to autocross well.

Since you don't compete at autocrosses that much, you should go with the Ford progressive springs. They should ride better on the street, and shouldn't be too much slower at the autocross course. I say that you should skip the lower control arms for now, and get the camber plates. Lowering your car changes the suspension geometry, so you need to change it so you can correct/improve it so the car can handle better and help wear out your tires evenly, especially with the track day you will do.

Edit: Autocross can wear out your tires fairly quick if your alignment is off, too.