LT1 issues...have fuel have spark, no start

OK I have a 94 road master w/ LT1 that I am trying to get ready for demo-derby. I now have a no start issue

I DROVE this car down to my shop 3 weeks ago (it did not want to start, but did) now it won't fire up

good optima battery

starter cranks fine

have 45psi fuel pressure + volt meter says injectors are firing

have spark + plug wires are run correctly (pcm seems fine...no spark if pcm is bad)

has compression

does not fire with starter fluid

will 'try' to fire occasionally, but only for .5-1 sec

I'm lost...please help...I know these LT1's are funny

haas

Replace the opti-spark with the vented one from the 95+ LT1's. That's my blanket response for all starting related LT1 issues.

My bet is that the rotor broke in the opti. It still spins and gives you spark, just at the wrong time.

Happened to me twice.

curtis73 wrote: My bet is that the rotor broke in the opti. It still spins and gives you spark, just at the wrong time. Happened to me twice.

what I was gonna ask was is the timing right. you beat me

Exhaust plugged?

I had a 95 Z28 that gave me a LOT of problems, many of them associated with their "Opti-spark."

I personally LOVE the optispark. Optical pickup is dead nuts accurate, and you try getting 150k out of a traditional cap and rotor.

I have no problems with a distributor that is that accurate and gives me 150k of worry-free use.

Now the water pumps can be blamed for most of the optispark issues, but that's not the Opti's fault

seeing as this is a derby car. i dont want to spend $300 on an opti. could i 'reset' the rotor? is it possible to fix it? would this work for 30mins or less of derby fun?

curtis73 wrote: I personally LOVE the optispark. Optical pickup is dead nuts accurate, and you try getting 150k out of a traditional cap and rotor. I have no problems with a distributor that is that accurate and gives me 150k of worry-free use. Now the *water pumps* can be blamed for most of the optispark issues, but that's not the Opti's fault

Yeah, but is it worth it to fix the weeping pump when you're going to just berkeley the car up?

JB Weld?

thats what im thinking...(DRUNK)

jhaas wrote: seeing as this is a derby car. i dont want to spend $300 on an opti. could i 'reset' the rotor? is it possible to fix it? would this work for 30mins or less of derby fun?

You might be able to epoxy the rotor onto the shaft. You will need to take the cap off with an E4 socket (Harbor Freight - 6.95) and reset it.

Call around... $300 is crazy. You can buy them from Dal Slabaugh at VanDevere Buick in Akron for $180.

Or you can buy a rotor from MSD or a few other sources.

FIXED!!

it was really corroded in there. it needed a cap and rotor. started on the first try after that.

now for the derby mods