Making a v8 mid engine

In reply to BrokenYugo:

Wouldn't that be really tall?

The obvious answer is to go vertical! Mount that long ass tube at a 45 degree angle. Dry sump and you are gold. Engine on a stick. Just make your chassis wider to compensate for the high roll center.

In reply to stroker:

Those truck IFS diffs have a short tube on one side to run under the oil pan, use the right pan and the center line of the inner CVs will only be a few inches below the main caps, maybe a few inches worse than a typical transaxle that runs the diff under the input shaft. It would get kinda tall if you wanted the axle center line under the trans though.

Stefan wrote: I guess this 4.8L for $600 doesn't exist? http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/5938844796.html A Holset is about $300 and you can reverse the stock manifolds and add your own Y-pipe to mount the turbo. So perhaps another $100 in parts? So that's $900 for a 650+hp 4.8L V8 or $5800 for a 700hp 4.0L V8. Oh and the aftermarket is much, much larger for the LS compared to the 1UZ-FE (at least in the US).

I agree with your overall point here, that an LS is the standard in hp/$, but your math is a little off. You can't just slap a $300 turbo onto a 4.8 and make 650hp. In addition to the costs you mentioned, you'd need injectors and a tune at minimum. That's going to be another $650ish on top of the $600 engine, $300 turbo, and $100 in associated hardware. So it would be $1650ish to get to your stated 650hp. I'd probably budget $2000 minimum to be safe, but it's probably possible for less in a Challenge style build.

Mad Ratel; Funny how your thread about MID-Engine morfed to Engine Type, even with your nudge to back up, So how Cheap is still not in challenge budget,It's good I won't mind keeping both hands on the wheel. Think I'm gonna look at the GM 425 and make a plate that will keep the converter in place when it gets seperated from the engine. then NO adapter needed ANY Engine would work, eng. will be ahead of the axel, tranny behind. not pretty but effective,and cheap. I think I can do it this way cheaper than any adapter, and with a shaft between the two you can tilt the rear of the engine up a couple degrees and raise the tranny so the axel is just under the shaft thus lowering the engine weight into the chassie.

PS A dude on Evil Bay has a plate like what I mentioned, Too much for me but proves It MAY work. I had thought about contacting them for pics in Operation but didn't feel it would change my design, like there might be another way to do this,Very Basic.