Making brake lines, time to learn.

I have this rigid kit and it works well, on or off of the car. http://www.toolup.com/ridgid-33927-345DL-Double-Flaring-Tool-with-No-150-Tubing-Cutter-Case-Kit

I also saw this 3/16 only on-car flaring tool that seems like it could be a good deal for the money: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html

I might get that for fun to try out

jfryjfry wrote: I have this rigid kit and it works well, on or off of the car. http://www.toolup.com/ridgid-33927-345DL-Double-Flaring-Tool-with-No-150-Tubing-Cutter-Case-Kit I also saw this 3/16 only on-car flaring tool that seems like it could be a good deal for the money: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html I might get that for fun to try out

Second the Ridgid. I have that same Ridgid double flare tool. Works great. If you need to make double-flares don't use the cheap flaring tools. I tried several and never could get one that would seal. The Ridgid tool work everytime.
It's a bit cheaper on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-23337-345-DL-Flaring-Tool/dp/B001HWKZLO

I am able to make flares that seal using plain-old bar-type flare tools that I can get for $30, but only if I cut the tube with one of the cutters that look like a tiny pipe cutter, and then prep the cut with this tool. It de-burrs the cut and chamfers it neatly, without roughing up the surface like a file. De-burring tool It's also fast, easy, and works even if I'm lying on my back under a car in the dark.

That, and I use lots of oil on the flaring die.

I would love to have one of the $1XX - $5XX heavy duty flaring tools out there but it's not in the budget, and I need something I can use on the car when I'm extending existing lines. I'm really curious about this tool, but it only works for 3/16" double flares: Eastwood on-car tool. I like the look of that Rigid tool above too, but I need something that does ISO bubble flares for old beat up BMW track cars.

Definitely use the nickel/copper line (NiCopp). I have this basic flaring tool which works OK but can be kind of cumbersome to use (flaring tool).

The nickel-copper is not good if you pay CDO level of attention in line fabrication. It's SO malleable that it will flop and bend under its own weight, making all of your work pointless.

Other than that, it's idiot-proof. Make the bend wrong? Super easy to moosh into the right shape.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/LPlHuF4PmNY

the flares are the easy part. getting the lines bent to go where you want them to and look good is the hard part. use the copper-nickle line; much easier than the steel version.

Nickle copper line and a flare tool are on their way. I just need to convince the proportioning valve to release the old lines and I'm good to go. There will be lots of pictures in the Fergus thread.

Another thumb up for Nicopp. I used it to do all new brakelines on my RX7 hillclimb car.

mazdeuce wrote: Nickle copper line and a flare tool are on their way. I just need to convince the proportioning valve to release the old lines and I'm good to go. There will be lots of pictures in the Fergus thread.

Cut line just north of the fitting, remove fitting with socket.

Knurled wrote:

mazdeuce wrote: Nickle copper line and a flare tool are on their way. I just need to convince the proportioning valve to release the old lines and I'm good to go. There will be lots of pictures in the Fergus thread.

Cut line just north of the fitting, remove fitting with socket.

Will do. Thanks.

I think I need a new line on the front of my f250, just to eliminate one more possible source for the brake drag. I've looked at all these nice flaring tools and stuff, but I can buy an ENTIRE set of pre-bent stainless tubes for the truck for $200.

And I live in the south so hopefully I never have to do it again.

Another trick for stuck fittings, they're soft steel, so if you round one off hammer a smaller 12 pt on, works most of the time between the hammering and the increased points of contact.

Also, GOOD LINE WRENCHES, I repeat BUY GOOD LINE WRENCHES, Snap On, Williams (industrial Snap On), etc. Expect to pay $10-$20 per wrench, you should only need one or two though. The cheap ones tend to spread and round off the nut before it breaks loose or seals up.

ultraclyde wrote: I think I need a new line on the front of my f250, just to eliminate one more possible source for the brake drag. I've looked at all these nice flaring tools and stuff, but I can buy an ENTIRE set of pre-bent stainless tubes for the truck for $200.

Yeah, I'd recommend pre bent or pre flared if you aren't going to get a $300 flare tool, especially for double flares. I can make decent enough bubble flares with my $30 OTC kit (it just takes forever and makes your hands sore if you don't have a vise), I've never had much luck with various borrowed tool truck brand flare bar type double flare kits.

Some line and a kit.
Only takes a couple of inches to make two, so I'm going to practice a lot. The tube has marks on the outside when done from the die, I assume this is OK? Really it's just the seat and it's shape that determine whether it will seal and keep you from dying, right?
More practice.

mazdeuce wrote: The tube has marks on the outside when done from the die, I assume this is OK?

Yes, that is fine.