Well.... i blew that gasket out. Go figure.
Toyota wants ~$30 for a replacement.
What can i make one out of with minimal tools that would hold up a bit better than the stupid paper exhaust crap that the parts monkey suggested?
Double layer beer can gasket? Obviously would have to stand up to some heat.
I have beer cans. I have scissors and knives. I have hand tools. Any other ideas?
Wonkothesane wrote:
MLS (Multi-layer steel) gaskets are used between cylinder heads and blocks for this very reason (the blocks/heads often expand at different rates and have to move around a bit)..
You might try making one yourself with some sheet metal steel? I don't know how well that would work out, but it might be worth a shot. They generally use some sort of coating on them, though, so maybe some sheet metal steel with that special coppery-paste exhaust sealant?
Hrmmm... so beer cans = bad idea?
I have a hunch that if i were to go make one out of sheet metal steel, the cost of materials would probably come close to just buying the Toyota part.
Wonkothesane wrote:
Eh, a piece of sheet metal at a local surplus store is probably going to be around $5 or something.. Might be worth a test.
I know on the Rx7, all of the exhaust gaskets are some sort of stamped mild steel wrapped around a ???(fiberglass?) form..
How long does the toyota part hold up?
edit: Oh, and I'd probably go with steel, not aluminum for your gasket, so ah, no beer cans unless neccessary.
The Toyota part will probably hold up for longer than the rest of the car will. I guess my issue is that it's $30 that i'd rather not tank out of my Challenge budget. I seem to have lost whatever was on the car when i bought it during the rebuild period, so i tried the thick paper gasket trick, which held for about.... 100 miles. Admirable, for sure, but not exactly what i'm looking for.
I'm not sure i've got anything that'll cut sheet metal, though. I'll see if i can track down a piece and mess around with it.
Thanks!
I made some exhaust gaskets out of a steel reinforced paper that I got at NAPA. Not as good as MLS, but better than just paper.
I think i'm going to give this a try:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1445565&kw=furnace+cement&origkw=furnace+cement&searchId=48186947413
AutoXR
Reader
5/12/10 3:35 p.m.
Hobby Store - small Sheet of Copper ($7) - Sharpie - cut - high 5.
A lot of turbo-equipped cars don't use a gasket between the turbo and the manifold. Just machine the cast iron surfaces flat and torque the mounting nuts down properly with anti-sieze.
Millions of Chrysler 2.2 turbo cars survived many, many years with no leaks between the turbo and the manifold. Now, leaks elsewhere are another story....
You can't get that gasket at O'Reilley's? I get turbo gaskets for my Esprit there for like six bucks or something. Felpro, and they're metal.
The primary purpose of a gasket between the turbo and the manifold is to blow out and create leaks.
If you forget to install the gasket, it will fail to blow out and nothing will leak.
just slamming the laptop shut wont do it, you have to yell SHUT UP aswell
Beverage,
Plus
Keith wrote:
The primary purpose of a gasket between the turbo and the manifold is to blow out and create leaks.
If you forget to install the gasket, it will fail to blow out and nothing will leak.
equals anopther doomed keybpard
skruffy
SuperDork
5/12/10 6:18 p.m.
grimmelshanks wrote:
just slamming the laptop shut wont do it, you have to yell SHUT UP aswell
Also, you can blow the welds on your intake (what sort of pressure would a decent fabricated manifold handle, 300psi or so before it had a structural failure?), fry your piston rings, and still start the car up and run from the cops without issue.
Beer cans probably won't handle the heat, I'd go with sheet aluminum or steel.
Did this happen cause you're granny shiftin' an' not double clutching like you're supposed to?
well he was obvious running 300 lbs of boost, thats why he also blew his floor pan
back to the original topic, 93celicagt2, you can probably solve this gasket issue with overnight parts from japan
vazbmw
Reader
5/12/10 7:43 p.m.
My vote
You can also get a sheet of copper at the scrap yard or Home depot
AutoXR wrote:
Hobby Store - small Sheet of Copper ($7) - Sharpie - cut - high 5.
vazbmw
Reader
5/12/10 7:45 p.m.
"Dude I had you." "you never had me, ya never had your car...granny-shifting double clutch'n..."
skruffy wrote:
grimmelshanks wrote:
just slamming the laptop shut wont do it, you have to yell SHUT UP aswell
Also, you can blow the welds on your intake (what sort of pressure would a decent fabricated manifold handle, 300psi or so before it had a structural failure?), fry your piston rings, and still start the car up and run from the cops without issue.
Beer cans probably won't handle the heat, I'd go with sheet aluminum or steel.
Raze
HalfDork
5/12/10 7:50 p.m.
I put a new exhaust manifold on the Merkur when we cracked the last one hanging our holset off it unsupported with no flex pipe in the exhaust with some preload, ended up not getting a mating surface 'clean' enough for the stock crush gasket, instead of taking it off again, I got a 300ZX multilayer gasket, trimmed off the two sides, slid it down in place, crushed it in place, result = seal for $15, 30 minutes, 30# of boost, no sweat as the inner 'seal ring was not cut, only the outer non-structural gasket material holding it in place. I'm a big fan of that gasket from now on...
No gasket is the best gasket. If the surfaces are flat you'll be fine without one.
kb58
Reader
5/12/10 9:16 p.m.
What's the point of using a steel "gasket"? It's not doing anything, not sealing imperfections, not squeezing into defects that would have otherwise leaked, not acting like a bearing in anyway between the two surfaces. Yeah, like the others said, if the two faces are really flat, who needs a gasket. The difference in thermal expansion may be an issue, but I just don't see what use a sheet of steel between the two accomplishes...
Pat
Reader
5/12/10 9:25 p.m.
^ what he said.
I have never run a gasket between the turbo and manifold flange.
oh but even a steel gasket goes seal a little bit! the sheet is thin and thus squishable. i do however agree that no gasket should be fine in this instance