Megasquirt help? MZR 36-2-2-2 wheel support

Hello- 

I'm trying to finally start the 62 MG Midget engine. It's a 2006 Mazda MZR with 36-2-2-2 crank wheel. Tunerstudio gives me this error:

I've got 4 cylinder selected on the settings page and the 36-2-2-2 wheel selected on the trigger page. Something tells me that this is set up for a Subaru trigger wheel for their 6 cylinder and not the Mazda 4. I'm not familiar with the coding and whether that should matter, but this warning tells me that it does matter.
 

Any advice? I've got emails in to Diyautotune and Tunerstudio.  I guess easy button would be to get the ford trigger wheel, but I'd rather not if I don't have to. 

Remind us, what's the crank trigger wheel on the car now, and what's the cam trigger (if any)?

Edit: do you understand how to use the composite logger? That's coming.

On car now is the stock mzr 36-2-2-2. Not currently using cam trigger. 
 

Im here to learn about the composite logger if i need to. I can spend and buy a later 60-2 crank pulley but if i can accomplish this as installed Id prefer that. 

Is there not a "Mazda MZR" ignition mode way at the bottom of the dropdown list?  Is your tunerstudio up to date?

Fresh download/update of the tunerstudio (3.1.08) and no MZR on the dropdown. Pretty old topic on MS extra forum says I can add the function on the .ini file but the line referenced isn't in the file I have. 
https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=65840

Also- this motor was vvt originally, but I deleted it, and used cams for a non vvt duratec.... the cam trigger wheel is going to be different than the mzr. Wondering if punting early and just getting the duratec trigger wheel/harmonic balancer is the right path. 
 

The imbedded question here is not clear- with a 36-2-2-2 wheel, do I need a cam signal as well to resolve the crank wheel?

You will need a cam trigger for sequential fuel and spark.

One thing you may be able to do is use a damper from a Duratec that has a 36-1 wheel if you can't get the 36-2-2-2 sorted.  That sounds like an RX-8 wheel, which won't need anything else for sequential because the sequence there is per crank revolution, not per every two revolutions like a piston engine.

This sounds like a good question for the MSExtra forum, you may be able to get beta code that can use this wheel natively.  You won't be the only person who wants this feature.

Or go 72-2 on the cam and use wast spark/edis. 

Ok- I'm using microsquirt, so sequential isn't an option anyway. It seems to like the 36-2-2-2 wheel after I go through a weird sequence of selecting rotary/2rotor, burning, cycling power, then re-burning the 36-2-2-2/4cyl. It seems to work for like 10-15 starter cycles then gives me crap. RPM reads well, and no sync issues so I still don't know exactly what's going on. 
 

Anyway, when it's communicating, I'm getting the "whimpering" non-start. Like while cranking it seems to start to catch then doesn't. I feel so close. Going to re re re re read the start section of the manual and see what I can modify in the settings. 
 

i really hope that I'm through the wheel thing, but not positive. 
 

If it is the wheel and I can step over to a more supported missing tooth wheel, is it worth it to splurge for a fluidampr ($500)? They make one with a 60-2 wheel that should fit (mazda6 2.3).  I'd like to be able to run this at pretty high rpm- I've got steel molnar rods, super tech 12.2/1 forged pistons, and a forged crank from an 09 Mx-5, in addition to high lift/duration cams (SBD/Kent 3000-8500) and valve springs.  
 

Make sure you get good rpm with ignition and fuel disabled. If its clean (no red in composite logger) hook up spark and sync timing. Once thats done, add fuel back in. 

Ok- I think I'm there, but ill do the process in the morning and report back. Sync timing is verify timing on crank with timing light is same as on tunerstudio?

Or go 72-2 and use wast spark/edis. 

Clean rpm. #3 catches occasionally. Timing light shows 35 deg advance at cranking which seems waaaay high. So I tried to adjust the trigger angle and cranking to bring closer to 10 but still no dice. I'm beginning to be convinced that the software for the 36-2-2-2 is for the Subaru with a different firing order and/or rotary. 

You mention firing order, its always abcd so make sure that follows the cyls in order

That was definitely a problem before yesterday. A:1 B:3 C:4 D:2. That's sorted before my latest reporting. Still wants to fire and #3 cyl has fired a few times. Enough to make the header pipe just above room temp. 

dean1484 said:

Or go 72-2 and use wast spark/edis. 

On the cam shaft. 

In reply to dean1484 :

That would be the same as a 36-1 on the crank.  I assume you meant 72-1-1.

Either way it won't know where the cam is and it will fire waste spark.

Is there a disadvantage to wasted spark? 
 

Worked on it again today- hooked up to the gti for strong cranking /higher voltage while cranking to take that out of the question.  Tweaking settings really yields nothing consistent.  #3 is firing occasionally, but the others aren't. Getting good spark to the plugs verfied by pulling and grounding on valve cover. 
 

it has got to be the flat four vs inline 4 thing right? I am not familiar with how the code is written in that- if it reads a 32-2-2-2 wheel (which mine does, consistently) and I set up for four cylinder, does it default to the Subaru firing order? If that is the case then the timing will never be right for an inline four. I would need the MZR specific wheel code that interfaces with normal inline four timing. Apparently that code exists on MS3 products but not MS2 Extra. I am loathe to throw more money at getting another crank pulley etc but that seems like the next step. 
 

F it. Just ordered a focus 36-1 pulley from rock auto. 

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

In reply to dean1484 :

That would be the same as a 36-1 on the crank.  I assume you meant 72-1-1.

 

Either way it won't know where the cam is and it will fire waste spark.

Yup

In reply to Teh E36 M3 :

Everyone thinks they want COP and if you are revving your car to the moon then yes it could be a help  for us mortals wast apart is fine.  The one down side is if a coil goes bad you loose two cylinders as opposed to only one.  

dean1484 said:

In reply to Teh E36 M3 :

Everyone thinks they want COP and if you are revving your car to the moon then yes it could be a help  for us mortals wast spark is fine.  The one down side is if a coil goes bad you loose two cylinders as opposed to only one.  

 

Re posted with edit because. 

dean1484 said:

In reply to Teh E36 M3 :

Everyone thinks they want COP and if you are revving your car to the moon then yes it could be a help  for us mortals wast apart is fine.  The one down side is if a coil goes bad you loose two cylinders as opposed to only one.  

 

Sequential injection is super critical the shorter your intake runners are, though.

That might have to be the final upgrade after I get it going well enough to see whether it makes a difference 

Updates: 

The saga is never a simple one. Received the focus 36-1 crank pulley. It is about 1/2" smaller diameter than the Mazda. Ok. So now the VR sensor isn't close enough to read the teeth. No adjustability in that direction. So, I order the focus unit which should be a bolt in.  It is a hall sensor (2 wire vs 3), and the connectors aren't the same. FFS. 
 

Serenity now. 
 

So maybe answer is to return ford 36-1 crank pulley, get a 2010 Mazdaspeed3 60-2 pulley, and the sensor from that, which is 3 wire. Don't know why ford would do hall and Mazda vr. All this because the code isn't there for 36-2-2-2. Could have just used the me442 ecu/wiring right from the start and had a plug and play start. Ugh.