Miata clutch pedal master pushrod 12mm nut stuck

Hi everyone. So I was able to install the new FM level 1 clutch into my car, and I'm now trying to adjust the clutch pedal so that the engagement point isn't right on the floor. Well, I have run into an issue that I didn't think I would run into. I have spent around 1 and a half hours trying to break the 12mm nut on the master pushrod loose. The thing won't move! I've PB blasted it, used a breaker bar with a crowfoot, my 12mm wrench, and nothing will break it loose. I am 99.9% sure I am twisting it the right way (although I have been known to get my left and right mixed up). Any tips on getting it loose? I don't want to use heat since I'm afraid of burning stuff up under there, but man, this thing is fighting way harder than I thought.

Do not adjust the clutch pushrod to solve any issues other than freeplay on the pedal.  That is the only thing it is for.  It is not to solve other problems.  If you have any other problems, it's not because of the pedal adjustment.

Just to be sure......you should be turning the wrench to the left (clockwise) to back the nut off the clevis.

If it's like my rx7, there is a nut and a jam nut.  The jam nut needs to be loose first.

Also, I would probably bleed the clutch and try to verify that it is disengaging before adjusting that pushrod.

That's a quick way to kill synchros....  ask me how I know.....

Thanks guys! I'm adjusting based on recommendations from the FM documentation for the clutch. I did test drive it before doing this and flushed the clutch fluid, it would disengage at the floor, and then catch very shortly after when releasing the clutch.

This is also embarrassing...I was turning the wrench the wrong way. I am quite upset with myself...I can put a clutch in, but can't turn a nut the correct way. I think I need a break....and some lessons on how to use a wrench! 

In reply to Japspec :

Upside and backwards is difficult for sure!

wvumtnbkr said:

In reply to Japspec :

Upside and backwards is difficult for sure!

Yep, I am disappointed that I messed that up! Well, clutch engagement point seems to be pretty good now after a test drive. Noticed it smells a little after parking but I guess thats just the clutch breaking in.

The FM clutch does require correct adjustment of the pushrod. It's the guys who don't believe it who end up calling tech support and/or burning it up prematurely :)

Keith Tanner said:

The FM clutch does require correct adjustment of the pushrod. It's the guys who don't believe it who end up calling tech support and/or burning it up prematurely :)

Sounds like I did the right thing then! Hopefully I have it adjusted correctly, but on my short test drive it seemed to engage and disengage fine. One question for you; should I keep the RPMs below 4k for the first 500 miles? Just wondering, since that is what I have been doing.

Not my area of specialty, I'm afraid. I tend to break cars in hard and early. On a clutch, it's the engagement that matters. 

Keith Tanner said:

Not my area of specialty, I'm afraid. I tend to break cars in hard and early. On a clutch, it's the engagement that matters. 

Gotcha, thanks! I'll search around, see what I find.

Japspec said:

Keith Tanner said:

The FM clutch does require correct adjustment of the pushrod. It's the guys who don't believe it who end up calling tech support and/or burning it up prematurely :)

Sounds like I did the right thing then! Hopefully I have it adjusted correctly, but on my short test drive it seemed to engage and disengage fine. One question for you; should I keep the RPMs below 4k for the first 500 miles? Just wondering, since that is what I have been doing.

There is only one way to adjust the pushrod on a hydraulic clutch.  There has to be a tiny bit of slack in the pedal.  It is that simple.

Streetwiseguy said:

Japspec said:

Keith Tanner said:

The FM clutch does require correct adjustment of the pushrod. It's the guys who don't believe it who end up calling tech support and/or burning it up prematurely :)

Sounds like I did the right thing then! Hopefully I have it adjusted correctly, but on my short test drive it seemed to engage and disengage fine. One question for you; should I keep the RPMs below 4k for the first 500 miles? Just wondering, since that is what I have been doing.

There is only one way to adjust the pushrod on a hydraulic clutch.  There has to be a tiny bit of slack in the pedal.  It is that simple.

Ah, I will have to readjust my pushrod if thats the case. I just checked, and it doesn't seem to have any slack at all. So it should just have a tiny bit right at the top then?

Read the instructions and follow them. Don't listen to people who know better. Seriously. We did a video as well. 

Keith Tanner said:

Read the instructions and follow them. Don't listen to people who know better. Seriously. We did a video as well. 

So I followed the FM Live video from Matt Horn, and got the slave until it couldn't be pushed in, then backing off the pushrod until I was able to push it in by hand. Is that okay? I have no free play up top, I'm new to any type of clutch maintenance/upgrades, so just want to make sure I'm doing it right.

Being able to compress the slave is the key. 

Keith Tanner said:

Being able to compress the slave is the key. 

Gotcha, so the lack of free play up at the top of the pedal shouldn't be an issue as long as the slave can compress by hand? Just don't want my clutch burning up prematurely, so want to make sure I'm doing this right. :)

You're good. 

Keith Tanner said:

You're good. 

Awesome, thank you!