Miata rear end ratios

Totally Off topic:

I am suddenly a little tingly.

What do these motors cost? What is necessary to use them RWD?

Is there an easy wiring / operating system for them?

Thanks!

Rob R.

wvumtnbkr wrote: Totally Off topic: I am suddenly a little tingly. What do these motors cost? What is necessary to use them RWD? Is there an easy wiring / operating system for them? Thanks! Rob R.

The motors don't really cost much, but they aren't exactly falling out of the sky, either. The demand isn't real high, and there's usually a couple Probes being parted out with some cool parts for ridiculously cheap. (How i built my entire car, pretty much.)

Luckily, the non-turbo motors seem to be just as strong, but then you're doing the turbo setup from scratch. (Not necessarily a bad thing.)

RWD poses a couple issues. One being the intake manifold, the other being the distributor. (Throttle body pointing towards firewall, dizzy running into firewall.)

Can either "flip" the top portion of the intake manifold, or get a bit more custom if you'd like. Dizzy... cut a hole in the firewall, convert to COP, or source a 12v Bongo head which puts it in the right direction.

There's quite a few Megasquirt cars around, so that's always an option. There's even a PNP/DIYPNP for it, so you can just use a stock harness and extend it if you'd like, or build from scratch.

Alternative options are extending the stock harness and using a chipped ECU (My car runs a 440cc injector chipped ECU and should easily make over 300whp using it.), or using an HKS PFC FCON with it.

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: It should bolt to the TII trans with a B2200 bellhousing, yes.

I thought all B2200s had the smoothcase, not the ribcase.

Knurled wrote:

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: It should bolt to the TII trans with a B2200 bellhousing, yes.

I thought all B2200s had the smoothcase, not the ribcase.

From what i'm finding... doesn't look like it.

Also finding that a later B2600 with the Mazda G6 engine should have a trans that should bolt right up to an F2T, and requires no flywheel/clutch modifications at all.

Is the Mazda G6 worth dealing with? I honestly thought they were all Mitsu 2.6's in the B2600, and I'm talking about a 2x4 truck for street & highway use and not crazy power applications.

pres589 wrote: Is the Mazda G6 worth dealing with? I honestly thought they were all Mitsu 2.6's in the B2600, and I'm talking about a 2x4 truck for street & highway use and not crazy power applications.

You mean the motor itself? I don't really know anything about the motor... just that the two transmissions that came in that truck (depending on mitsu vs. mazda motor) are different, and that only the Mazda variant will bolt up.

There's some stuff about a 15 degree slant variant that i'm trying to work out as well. I THINK the 15 degree slant transmission is the Mitsu, but not positive at the moment.

Yeah, just talking about the motor, I'm sort of looking for a truck and don't want a motor swap right off (other irons in the fire). Mileage, reliability, etc. B2200 seems much more likely to end up in my driveway though because of the 2x4 vs. 4x4 situation.

Dunno about the B2200 bellhousing to TII swap, but the FD definitely uses a pull type clutch release mechanism. Isuzu Rodeo V6's use the same setup.

Curmudgeon wrote: Dunno about the B2200 bellhousing to TII swap, but the FD definitely uses a pull type clutch release mechanism. Isuzu Rodeo V6's use the same setup.

That's interesting... I assume that doesn't matter a whole lot? Dansxr2 has an FD clutch in his F2T-powered MX3, which is a "push" setup.

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

Knurled wrote:

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: It should bolt to the TII trans with a B2200 bellhousing, yes.

I thought all B2200s had the smoothcase, not the ribcase.

From what i'm finding... doesn't look like it.

Which years had the ribcase? http://www.solomiata.com/Drivetrain.html says that the B2000/2200 used a smoothcase. Plus, I know someone who used a B2200 transmission in his quest to put a Perkins Diesel engine in his FB, playing Legos with the different case sections until it bolted in to the car.

I'll dig up the build thread tomorrow... i could be wrong i suppose. I know it was using TII internals somehow.

Hi guys!

The 3.3 Courier rear doesn't exist. There's bad info out there. Occasionally someone does find one and then discovers it's really a different size that won't fit in the Miata housing.

If I wanted a low ratio rear and a good clutch LSD, I'd throw in a CTS-V rear using the V8Roadsters setup. We have everything but the PPF replacement, and I have some ideas on how to build one of those. The nice thing about the CTS-V rear is that it's fairly small (more room for exhaust) and you can get a 3.42 with LSD brand new for the price of a 100,000 mile Miata Torsen.

Keith Tanner wrote: Hi guys! The 3.3 Courier rear doesn't exist. There's bad info out there. Occasionally someone does find one and then discovers it's really a different size that won't fit in the Miata housing. If I wanted a low ratio rear and a good clutch LSD, I'd throw in a CTS-V rear using the V8Roadsters setup. We have everything but the PPF replacement, and I have some ideas on how to build one of those. The nice thing about the CTS-V rear is that it's fairly small (more room for exhaust) and you can get a 3.42 with LSD brand new for the price of a 100,000 mile Miata Torsen.

Keith, what sort of price are we talking for the full setup? I'm still in planning stage with this, obviously. It's not a Challenge build, but spending a ton of money on this rather defeats the purpose.

If by "a ton of money" you mean "any", it's not for you GRM is funny that way. If the purpose is to build the best car you can and one that will be bulletproof, it's a good option.

I believe it's right around $1500 if you remove the driveshaft from the kit. The Ford 8.8 version is about $600 more. That's the differential mounting setup and the halfshafts. More expensive than bolting in a Torsen, but stronger and as good at laying down power as an OS Giken.

Keith Tanner wrote: If by "a ton of money" you mean "any", it's not for you GRM is funny that way. If the purpose is to build the best car you can and one that will be bulletproof, it's a good option. I believe it's right around $1500 if you remove the driveshaft from the kit. The Ford 8.8 version is about $600 more. That's the differential mounting setup and the halfshafts. More expensive than bolting in a Torsen, but stronger and as good at laying down power as an OS Giken.

Well, considering i've dumped $20k into an Escort like a moron, i'm fully aware i'm not doing this for anything less than "any" money.

$1500 is fine for some peace of mind.

In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:

...$20k in the Escort? I'm not sure if I envy your chutzpah or fear it.

pres589 wrote: In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac: ...$20k in the Escort? I'm not sure if I envy your chutzpah or fear it.

I'm not proud of it, that's for sure. Project Creep is a bitch.

Im sure that someone else it thinking this. How would one do this if they needed to fit it into a challenge budget? I am thinking $500 max. hack together some CTS/t-bird half-shafts with Miata halfs (cut and weld in the middle)? Custom build a mount out of flat metal. The reason I am asking is because this thought has crossed my build teams mind for the starlet project to kick it over into independent suspension territory (need a 3.25 or so ratio for the rear).

singleslammer wrote: Im sure that someone else it thinking this. How would one do this if they needed to fit it into a challenge budget? I am thinking $500 max. hack together some CTS/t-bird half-shafts with Miata halfs (cut and weld in the middle)? Custom build a mount out of flat metal. The reason I am asking is because this thought has crossed my build teams mind for the starlet project to kick it over into independent suspension territory (need a 3.25 or so ratio for the rear).

My guess would be to junkyard hop for an 8.8 and start there.

I shopped eBay for some 8.8 gearsets for my aluminum IRS housing, found a 2.73 (!!!!).

Land speed racing in a miata.....not sure I want anything to do with that.

If you simply google image search "mazda B2200 transmission" you will see that every relevant picture that shows up is of a smooth-case transmission.

Also, I too have heard the claim that the G6 B2600 transmission is a magical rib-case TII style trans that bolts up the FE-series motors. I was skeptical, so I googled a picture of a G6 B2600 bell housing, and compared it with my own picture of a FE-series transmission. It is apparent to me that the only thing that may be common between them is the starter.

Soo... It would seem that a large portion of information out there on this is garbage. Seems par for the course when it comes to these motors in general.

So we're back to miata 6speed or TII with adapter plate.

I found a thread on mx6.com from over a decade ago that mentioned the G6 transmission bolting up... They had actually done it. I'll find it again.

It looks like most of the top half bolt holes match up. The bottom-not so much.

Edit-holy crap that's a lot of bolt holes!