NASCAR as a road course track car?

The chassis seem cheap (for what you get) and with the availability of V8 American drivetrains I would think that it would be a fun way to do some trackdays. There is fair amount of road race chassis available that I've seen, all they need is a drive train. Everything else seems there.

I've raced sportbikes for years and if there is one thing that holds true is that it's usually cheaper something that's already race prepped then buying a street bike and then converting it. Starting with a tube framed chassis racecar would go a long way in being ahead of the game.

So do people do this often? What am I missing?

TIA.

In the current issue of GRM, one of the top UTCC finishers is a retired NASCAR with some upgrades. From what I understand, while the actual race cars are kinda heavy, they add weight (lead shot in strategic places) to make bring them up to minimum. They could be a fair bit lighter (and thus a bit easier on wear items like brakes and tires).

I've seen a few out on track, so I know it can be and has been done.

My concern would be consumables and rules.

Consumables "should" be low surely. You don't have to run fancy anything and you can just run whatever tires you want. It is likely only slightly more expensive than your usual V8 whatever. More expensive than a Miata on 205s but still cheap.

To get them out there and running it's not too bad. An ASA chassis is one of the best ways to go. It's a pretty standard LS Juan motor. If you want to actually go racing....well, it starts to get expensive from there:

http://www.schwankeshortblocks.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=1572&c=1932

That's why most chassis are basically give aways.

Make sure you get something setup for road course work. The cost to convert is not usually worth it. Also make sure it's straight. As you know, they pound those things around.

There are whole host of tube chassis cars out there cheap; pick you're brand of V8 and stick it in. As mentioned it is when you want to,go faster that ruins budget. If you only want 350 or 400 hp slam dunk. If you use take offs (used tires) the tire bill is very livable. With no rule book you should be able to get the car under 3000lbs.

Tom

More than 400 hp on something that isn't running in a class sounds like forced induction to me!!

Ok, so I'm not crazy.

LQ4 + T56 =

You could start with something basic and then upgrade as you go. Not sure about power adders, I think that would get expensive quickly.

Only other thing I'm wondering about is tires. I think to get proper road race takeoff's on it I would have to switch up the sizes. I think the steely's NASCAR uses are 15X8 which is a pretty odd size, I think?

There is a place/guy John Burget race tires he does nothing but used race tires and could let you know what's what. I do know that 15" slicks are available. Another place is American Racing Tire, they do spec tires (hard compound slick) and the prices for new tires from them are pretty reasonable.

I looked at doing a cheap V8 tube car years ago: What I found was if you grabbed a wrecked 5.0 Mustang or RS Camaro that would give you a cheap driveline. A proper stock car V8 was not cheap, nor a Jerico trans and the rear ends could be pricey as well.

The biggest budget hurdle was going to be the idiot driver (me): I too raced bikes, only on 125 GP bikes and as riders we tended to make the Tazmania Devil appear comatose. In my 1600lb underpowered Datsun this frenetic level of aggression doesn't have to detrimental effect on tire wear. In contrast that approach will likely roast a set of tires on a stock car in 8 laps. If you can be mindful of the tires and or don't mind the driving style it can indeed be fun.

In the end I realized I didn't want to give up that level of aggression and my budget would never cover the tire bill if the big car was driven that way.

With that said I've seen a couple of people go this route and it is a pretty cheap way to go fast, you just need to run the numbers and see if it works for you.

Tom

Where does one look for a used chassis to buy?

Tim did an article on these some time back … I'm sure that someone (many) can find the writeup … there's a slew of NASCAR based road race cars out there … might even be a class for them …

as you pointed out … big fun, relatively inexpensive to run …

as much as I like my little FWD … the noise of a big American pushrod V8 is something else

Chumpcar has started a class for ex-Stock cars.

You could tell people you are a stock car driver. That would be a cool thing to blurt out at social functions

Do you want cheaper ? Find a metric chassis car, uses production frame with stock mounting suspension points. Converting to both directions just a control arm away. Can be found for 1k or less for rolling chassis. For a few bucks more you get quick change rear or 9".

They run them at that high speed Texas road coarse thing. If I recall, they usually win.

Fewer platforms will bring more smiles per a mile for the driver as well. Not many vehicles are more fun to get "close to right" as opposed to right on the money, these are one of them.

and the article to which I was referring ..had a video with it …

Every circle track with a website has a classified section. Turn key late models can be had for under $10000.00. And they are light for the most part. It's a full tube frame with a plastic body. But they are usually packing 700 or more pounds of lead in circle track form.

And the short track tires are fine on a road course and one or two race take offs are usually $25 or $50 each. They will go a few hundred laps on a short track so it wouldn't be the biggest expense on a track day car. That would be fuel....

what are some sources for acquisition of a retired cup car of pre COT obsolete vintage?

In reply to patgizz:

racingjunk, ebay, any circle or dirt track forum. they're honestly more plentiful the SM cars.

Nascar uses a 10"x15 wheel. there are 5 or 6 businesses in the Charlotte and Kannapolis area that sell used Parts from Cup to Late models. cars can be built sort of inexpensive but they (Cup and Busch)are as Safe ie:heavy as can be expected and are great to learn in. BUT the weight is what Keeps MOST RR drivers from being able to "Get it" when they Visit a cup car Event. After that everything else feels like a Go Kart.

Tires- 2010, I was using 225/45 15 Goodyear R's on my Neon, and Goodyear 10" slicks on a super late model. The R's were $215cdn, the slicks $135cdn from the same store.

Oh! $5000 chassis and body

Aren't Trans-AM T2 cars essentially re-bodied, oval track tube-frame chassis?

Appleseed wrote: Oh! $5000 chassis and body

That's what I'm talking about, how is that not a slam dunk?!

GTXVette, thanks for the correction. I thought 15X8 sounded wrong...