Need help finding a brake part

We were working on the challenge car, and one of my teammates was working on the drum brakes. They loosened something that shouldn't have been loosed, and couldn't get it re-tightened, or loosened enough to remove the conventional way. So, the sawzall came out. In one diagram, it was called an anchor pin. It attached near the top of the backing plate, and had a couple of springs attached.

We couldn't find it on Rock Auto, Advance, Autozone, or Oreilly's sites. Either we have the name wrong, or this part is hard to come by. Which is odd, since it needs to come off to remove the backing plate from teh axle, so I would assume you should be able to find a replacement.

Anybody know what is called in store catalogs, and where we can get it? Oh yeah, the car is a 1987 Firebird

From CompNine....

027 Not Avail. * PIN,RR BRK SHOE ANC(7) * 1 *

Disco'd from GM... You best bet is probably the JY.

Not really sure why you'd need to remove the backing plate unless it was rusted out, but when you get the used parts from the wrecker get the new bolt as well. Failing that, its off to the dealer. I would be hugely shocked if it was available from the aftermarket, since nobody ever needs one.

Use welder?

That's what I was afraid of. Looks like this is gonna be fun to fix.

Maybe thread a hardened bolt through backer plate and double nut? Maybe not. A machine shop would be handy here

It may be an integral part of the backing plate. Thousands available at JY's.

iceracer wrote: It may be an integral part of the backing plate. Thousands available at JY's.

Yeah, I'm sure I can get one at the junkyard, but being in the rust belt, they are likely to be in the same shape as this one It actually holds the backing plate to the end of the axle shaft, so I'm wondering if a replacement is included with new backing plates.

I'll check the parts store today. Failing that, I'll hit the junkyard in the hopes of finding a less rusted assembly, or come up with a way to reattach this one. I just don't want to do anything that'll compromise the safety of the car.

I'm not to familiar with GM brakes, but I rebuilt more drum brakes on forklifts and other industrial vehicles than I care to remember. They all have a pin like that above the wheel cyl, and I have never once had to remove one, including the times that I've had to remove the backing plate. IIRC most are welded on.

I would probably look to weld it first. If that doesn't intrigue you, then...

Go to the junk yard and get a whole new axle, probably only $50 and hopefully it will have a LSD. Then redo the drum brakes.

In reply to RossD:

I think its got 1/2"-13 threads. If so, maybe I can get another nut on the remaining threads, then maybe weld it to the nut, or even use JB Weld, so its easier to cut back off in the future. Since the load on it should be shear, it should do okay.

If this wasn't a challenge car, I'd just pick up a disc rear from a trans am or Z28 for $100. As it is, I'm at my budget limit and running out of time to get this cursed car going.

Edit - the local parts store told me I was out of luck in finding one made new. Dorman makes that type of part, but only on failure-prone assemblies.

fasted58 wrote: Excuse me if I'm wrong (which wouldn't be nuttin' new) but I just don't see that anchor pin securing the backing plate to the axle. Backing plate on that should be attached to axle by a four bolt flange. Buy a JY backing plate w/ the anchor intact.

This. That pin has nothing to do with removing the backing plate. I wouldn't weld what you have because if it breaks at the wrong time (say at 1321') you could have a big problem.

Edit:

Excuse me if I'm wrong (which wouldn't be nuttin' new) but I just don't see that anchor pin securing the backing plate to the axle (or needing to come off to remove the backing plate). Backing plate on that should be attached to axle by a four bolt flange.

Buy a JY backing plate w/ the anchor intact.

If you look at the GM diagram from CompNine, you will see that the backing plate is held on with three bolts. One is the anchor pin and two in the normal lower places.....

In reply to Ranger50:

I'd like to see that, never ran across it

In reply to Ranger50:

thnx much Ranger, I stand enlightened

Ranger50 wrote: If you look at the GM diagram from CompNine, you will see that the backing plate is held on with three bolts. One is the anchor pin and two in the normal lower places.....

yup - just confirmed it after I got home to look at the car. The nut has indentations in each flat that make me wonder if its some sort of distorted thread locknut. I hope not, since that would mean the part should probably be tossed after being removed. To the junkyard I go this Sunday, I guess.

If "the help" didn't heat that and apply Kroil in an attempt to remove that before grabbing a Sawz-Y'all, they either need more supervision, better judgement, or you need better help.

Call me crazy, but destroying any part that may potentially need to be reused - particularly in a budget-limited rule structure - is an approach of last resort.

GM would do anything to save a nickle.

In reply to motomoron:

I skipped the middle part of that story. Actually, copious amounts of PB Blaster, Freeze-Off, and a propane torch were used. And a 2' pipe over a wrench.

iceracer wrote: GM would do anything to save a nickle.

Especially back in the mid to late 80's and most of the 90's.......

I stand corrected.

If you're going to work on that old, unloved Americana, though, an oxy-acetylene torch will make a difference sometimes. And a kick ass impact gun.

Managed to get the part today when I hit the yard for some spares for my winter beater. Took 15-20 minutes, and way too much PB and Freeze-Off, and a lot of effort. Its very difficutlt to tighten back up, too. I'll leave reinstalling it to the guy who cut it off

Run a dye down the threads and buy a new hammerlock nut, It will probably never be taken off again.