Need help finding a T fitting for the oil pressure sensor and sender on my LS swap. Needs to be M16-1.5 male one on side to thread into the block, M16-1.5 female on one end to accept the GM sensor, and 1/8 NPT on the side to accept the sender for my gauge. I found one on a British website but they want $14 to ship a S17 fitting.
Here's an example of what it would look like.
Thanks in advance.
Did you check with Pegasus Racing?
Daylan C said:Need help finding a T fitting for the oil pressure sensor and sender on my LS swap. Needs to be M16-1.5 male one on side to thread into the block, M16-1.5 female on one end to accept the GM sensor, and 1/8 NPT on the side to accept the sender for my gauge. I found one on a British website but they want $14 to ship a S17 fitting.
Here's an example of what it would look like.
Thanks in advance.
Just pretend it's a $25 fitting with $6 shipping :)
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Pretty acceptable logic. I honestly sort of doubt any US vendor is going to have such a weird thing much cheaper.
Nearly every cheapo tap and die set includes a 1/8" NPT tap. I might suggest getting either a male-female M16 piece OR an M16 nipple and coupling and drilling and tapping for the 1/8" NPT.
Might be simpler (Amazon) to buy brass nipples and fittings in the metric and add your own NPT.
Like one of these
with an M16 pipe coupler on it. Drill and tap the side of the coupler.
Or... get an M16 Tee, and thread on a 1/8 NPT adapter like this
That's why I love having a lathe in the shop. I could spend an hour or two making a $30 fitting and convincing myself it was time well spent! I really need to get a life...............
In reply to lotusseven7 :
I am very guilty of doing the same
In reply to lotusseven7 :
I would definitely do the same if I had a lathe or could get away with sneaking and using the one in the maintenance shop at work.
Looks like an oil pressure fitting found on nearly every Chrysler 2.2/2.5 powered vehicle.
Those aren't m16 though. But you could drill into the thing and retap it if you had the taps. I'd just pay the $27 and move on in this case. Or get a T , a male-to-male m16, and an adapter which would probably add up to more than $27 if you value your time at all! lol
Yeah I just went ahead and paid them, the only other one I found in my googles was a British ebay seller. The first vendor looked more legit so I just placed my order. ETA is the 6th.Thanks for the advice though. I'm sure I could cobble something together or make something but I really like the idea of just having the one piece handle both sensors.
why not just drill and tap the crossover port bolted to the oil pan?
In reply to Patrick :
I'd rather leave that open so I can use it for oil cooler lines if I decide I want to later.
Daylan C said:In reply to Patrick :
I'd rather leave that open so I can use it for oil cooler lines if I decide I want to later.
If you do that, then you can tap into the line if you use AN lines. Or drill four holes in a 3/4" thick chunk of aluminum to make a spacer block, and tap sideways into one of the oil passages.
What's done is done of course, but some guy in the future might find this thread and get ideas.
You don't need the factory gauge if you have your own. The ECU doesn't care. Just use one of these.
Or, if you're that worried about it leave the factory sensor in the factory location and drill and tap the port right above the oil filter.
Or, or, If you really don't want to tap it either. Several companies make nice billet ones that are already tapped.
https://lsxinnovations.com/product/ls-oil-port-adapter-dual-18-npt/
Stefan said:Looks like an oil pressure fitting found on nearly every Chrysler 2.2/2.5 powered vehicle.
Beat me to it.
In reply to Patientzero :
If the ECU doesn't care I may end up putting my gauge sender in the factory location with an adapter and simplifying my wiring slightly. I will hoperully find a use for this weird fitting I bought on something else.
In reply to Daylan C :
I think the PCM might be using it for some very fine idle control strategy - if it knows the oil pressure, it knows how much torque it takes to move the oil pump, so that and a dozen other calibrated maps equal it knows how much torque it takes to turn the engine at a given speed, and therefore knows how much to open the throttle or IAC stepper.
We're talking very fine control, though. Like the engine RPM only fluctuates by 5 rpm when the A/C kicks in kind of idle control (which is why the high side A/C pressure sensor goes through the PCM)
Mostly I think it goes through the PCM so that the instrument cluster can get ALL of its data across the network, which simplifes wiring. Everything on the engine goes to the PCM mounted underhood, and only a small handful of wires need to pass into the cabin. Mostly a network twisted pair or two, some powers and grounds, and everything related to the fuel tank sending unit and emissions. (The computer uses the fuel level not only for evap strategy but also ignition control - at every refueling event it will revert to the high octane map and switch to the low octane map if it detects excessive knock. If you don't have a fuel sender hooked up, and it detects a lot of knock, it will go to the low octane map and stay there. The workaround is to copy the high octane maps to the low octane maps in the tune, but I find this to be uncouth)
In reply to Knurled. :
The car already has a GM fuel sender in it (from a 1994 Roadmaster if I remember correctly) so it sounds like I should probably give the PCM that signal.
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