Need help - project killer N/A 1.6 Track Miata

Hello gents,

I have an interesting project on my hands; would deeply appreciate some help and tips from the Spec Miata or track veterans out there on how to best go about this.

Project brief I've obtained a full sponsorship to field a car in Class 3 of the UAE Touring Car Championship. Class 3 means that we're restricted to production based 1.6l cars - biggest threat to me would be someone showingtup with a built B16 Honda Civoc I think.

There's a Class 2 as well, for 2 litre naturally aspirated cars, which is currently overrun by K20 Civics, Renault Clio 197 Cups and the like. Don't think a Miata stands much change there; also expensive!

Also my sponsors are already fielding a Class 2 entrant and want something competitive in Class 3. So I've been told to find a car and spec it out, after which they will sign the cheque and bring it over for me to drive. Simple as that.

If I can come up with the car!

Lastly, I probably have a maximum budget of around $25-$30k for this project; need to make the most of it the first time around and not create a money pit!

As the owner of a "beater" 1.6 Miata, I figured that a properly built 1.6 NA Spec Miata would be a fun, reliable and competitive choice out of the box for this class so I'd like to start there.

Class Rules (what's allowed under the rules).

Class 3 is for 1.6l naturally aspirated, closed top production based cars running the stock unibody (no silhouettes) as well at the stock engine configuration (engine mods are free however in my case I would need to run a longtidudally mounted straight 4).

Class allowances

This is the fun part - we're not a Spec Miata series so can enjoy quite a few allowances beyond what a Spec Miata can run; the series runs on full slick Dunlop control tires.

First, suspension is free i.e. we're allowed coilovers and any swaybar/bushings we want.

Second, motor modifications are free as long as the orginal motor confugiration is kept (but no FI, no swaps from other mfrs.)

Third, we're also allowed aero, within limits, and we're allowed to wide nt eh track of the car by roughly 75mm on all sides if we wish.

Fourth, we follow standard FIA safety rules in terms of cages, fire systems, harnesses, electrical cutoffs, seats, gear, etc.

The full regulations are here actually: http://www.dubaiautodrome.com/upload...v4_2009-10.pdf

A few key questions whch I'm wondering about:

1.Where to buy from In peoples' opinions, fully built car from a pro shop or buy a used Spec Miata as a base car, perhaps form the Spec Miata Classifieds?

I'm aware that outfits such as Jim Drago at East Street Racing, or Advanced Autosports etc. are amazingly skilled in terms of building turnkey Spec Miata racers; open to other suggestions which I may not be aware of, and also wondering who would be good to deal with given that we're an international client?

Also know that FM, Rebello etc. can built pretty mean motors if needed, but iddeally looking at a one stop shop for a custom bui;d or a ready to rock car (SM or quick ITA Miata).

2. Spec Miata (proven package) vs. modofied Spec (extra edge) In the opinion of those with experience, would an out of the box Spec Miata be competitive against a car with well set up coilovers, slightly wider rubber (i.e. stuffed in 6UL wheels) and mild aero (front splitter + rear wing).

I understand that the best Spec Miata cars are extremely well developed in their own right, even within the limitations, so I'm curious to know peoples' opinions on the merits of simply running an out of the box Spec car vs. spending extra time and effort on going 'out of the envelope'.

And of course, what the first items to change would be on an SM car if one were allowed to and wanted to knock off qucker lap times.

3. Best bang for the buck engine tweaks on top of a Spec motor Engine wise, what's the best bang for the buck area for horsepower improvement over a Spec engine?

I'm guessing headwork would be cheap and easy - a fully built motor with ITBs etc. is out prpbably of scope for me at the moment due to costs and tuning/reliability concerns I think (but possible for next season) I just wnat reasonable, and most importantly reliable power so I finish races and rack up points.

Spec Miata guys - what's the first thing you would you do to you motors for some added zip? If, you know, there weren't so many rules...and aside from forced induction of course!

4. Most beneficial chassis improvements over a Spec Miata? Chassis wise, what would be the first impovements to make vs. a Spec Miata? Would coilovers and fancy rollbars or chassis braces etc. be worth it? What would you do?

5. Best builder given my budget? Go pro or DIY? Does anybody know a pro shop which could build such a one off car? I could happily buy a nicely build, used Spec Miata and do the modifications myself ad-hoc but the sponsor would prefer to write one check and run the car out of the box. (It would be a wire transfer obviously but you knwo what I mean).

6. Open to tips and suggestions! Given the rules I'm running under, I'm open to creative and cost effective ideas in terms of modifications, setup, weight reduction, aero, you name it.

I know there's plenty of info about this out there but I'd really like to know what guys with lots of bona fide track experence think. I could do it the hard way, and spend way more than I have to, but I'd love to hear some informed opinions on this topic!

A little bla bla about me and Dubai etc. - just in case Canadian expat and yes, I'm in Dubai. Car nut for life; roughly 7 years AutoX, karting and track experience so far. I'm no Michael Schumacher but I'm decent.

No, I'm not a rich guy by any stretch - more the opposite. Average job, spend my load on my Evo. I'm just lucky to have this change, that's all. So no ridiculous suggestions please. Gotta keep it real.

We have a great racing scene coming up here. You can check out the UAE TCC and UAE GT series on my blog: www.crankandpiston.com or poke through our local forum www.gulfpetrolheads.com

I'm known as 'theshadow' on both.

Would really appreicate any feedback on any of the above points - I'm very fortunate to have the backing for this project and want to do it right!

Thanks!

the wrote: Class Rules (what's allowed under the rules). Class 3 is for 1.6l naturally aspirated, closed top production based cars running the stock unibody (no silhouettes) as well at the stock engine configuration (engine mods are free however in my case I would need to run a longtidudally mounted straight 4).

Would that closed top part exclude the miata or is the hard top enough?

I would suggest you contact Jesse Prather @ jesseprathermotorsports.com. He is a 3 time SCCA National Champion driving a Miata. Jesse has many years experience and is 100% honest in his dealings. I have known Jesse and his dad Kent for many years and am both a friend and customer. Tell him Don Walsh reccomended him. From what you have written it sounds like you can go a lot farther than a Spec Miata. I would be looking at an F Production Miata as a good candidate for what you have described. Good luck!

Moxnix, yes, a factory hardtop would be enough to make the car eligible to run in spite of being a 2 seater.

In reply to Don49: Thanks for the tip - I can defintely go further than a Spec Miata; figures an SM would jsut be a good reliable base to start with. Thanks for the tip on Jesse Prather Motorsports, will look them up.

Will have a peek at F production Miatas as well, assimilate as much useful into as I can.

The main problem I can see with trying to squeeze more power out of a Miata is that they don't react that well to N/A tuning. Without raising the compression I don't think you'll get that much out of ITBs, cam and exhaust changes.

Just a thought, if you're running against B16 powered Hondas you'll have to open the engine.

You can certainly get more out of N/A tuning. My 1.6 makes a verifiable 148 at the wheels. Even the most optimistic Spec engine builder wouldn't claim that For power, I'd say you want compression, cams and good engine management.

The suggestion to go with Prather Racing is a good one. I know you've already approached FM, and we don't have the time to build a full car for you - sorry.

Start with a used Spec car, then throw away the suspension and put on some good AFCOs. Jesse will probably agree, he's won three national championships on them.

I'm not sure that a Spec miata is not a great starting point. The rules are pretty choked up for further development. They need to run a stock dash, 8 point cage, etc

For the best bang for buck, I'd start from scratch - Dip a tub to remove all paint / seam sealer / etc. Seam weld the chassis & add a production / GT style cage (tie front suspension / subframes / chassis together with multi point triangulated cage). It will probably cost almost as much to rework a SM than doing it off a fresh tub.

The SCCA F prod miatas are "limited prep" meaning they are limited in compression (10:1), cam lift, and need to run stock head & intake. Even still, our last budget build put 157HP to the wheels :) The engines really wake up with a good cam. Add some compression, port work, and cam/exhaust development & your in good shape.

Prather has a really good shock package, I like to run stiffer rates than he does (but it depends on tire / slick combo)

Kendall

Thanks Keith,

You have pretty much captured my dilemma.

What I think I need is a basic Spec Miata type chassis to begin with but I'd like to avoid payng top dollar for a full on pro bui;t SM car only to have to throw the suspension away, as well as tearing a perectly good SM engine apart in order to rebuilt it with better internals.

Ideally I'm lookin for a place which would be able to build a 'super' Spec Miata from the get-go; a stripped out tub up build but using a built motor more similar to yours - I think it might be the one you're using in the Locost/7 if I'm not mistaken - i.e. intentive heardork, cams, forged rods and internals, high compression pistons and well sorted stantalone engine management.

Suspension wise, AFCOs or AST/XIDA type coilovers and full polybushes + heim jointed swaybars, most likely wide rubbber 9enoguh to fill up some 6ULs at least), plus slightly wider track + a splitter/rear wing package. Would also want it stripped down enough to meet minimum weight in our series, which happens to be around 1000kg on the nose I believe.

Not sure which shops are out there that could handle such a build from scratch, but I'll keep checking!

If I have to do the engine and chassis separately then so be it; will check what prather can do in the engine department.

Still open to suggestions though - theoretically I'd be allowed to do something as wild as Matt Andrews' car in terms of everything but the engine accorsding to our regs LoL.

Cheers!

Kendall Jones - just saw your post.

I agree with what you're saying as well - a one off build to my particular specs makes more sense. As things are, my sponsors are much happier writing a check for somebody else to do all the dirty work than they are to build/modify a car themselves; it's not due to any lack of fabrication skill on their part; they simply have too many projects on their plate at the moment to handle another build is all.

Am in the process of huntng down builders at the moment - any and all help appreciated!

For tires, you'll be probably looking at 275/30-15 Hoosiers - I think that's the size. Otherwise you're stuck with a 225/45-15. Definitely talk with Jesse about E Production suspension geometry.

Kendall, what do you like to run for spring rates? Stock geometry, what offset? I'm curious, I'm playing around with a wide range of numbers right now to see how they work.

One advantage of starting with a Spec car (I understand 1.6 Specs are getting fairly inexpensive) is that you can get a head start on building the car. Sure, you'll throw out a bunch of the parts that make it a Spec, but all the work of stripping the chassis and welding in the cage is done. You have a functional car, you'd be able to start evolving it.

Contact ISC racing. Mike VanSteenberg can build you a good fast car on a budget.

In reply to Keith:

Yes, that was my original plan - start with a Spec Miata as a good base and enhance the chassis and power package incrementally.

One note - we run a spec tire for the series' Dunlop full slicks. Much more grip than an A6, which puts more stress on the car and creates some new challenges in terms of setting the chassis up to maximize the available grip.

Just want to avoid a long and complicated DIY build - idea is to focus on driving the car and not resolving car issues (partiularly in the engine/tuning department) as much as possible. MUST avoid DNSs and DNFs and unforseen expenses an much as possible. :)

fastmiata - thanks for the tip. Will look up ISC as well.

And thanks to carthusiast for the PM - some very impessive stuff there.