Is anyone sitting out there waiting to take a few large fine pitch bolts and put a tapered hole in each one? if so, let me know!
Is anyone sitting out there waiting to take a few large fine pitch bolts and put a tapered hole in each one? if so, let me know!
I was going to post a similar thread for header flanges. You beat me to it!
I can talk to goodman here in town, especially if you have drawings of what you need
Not yet, I need to talk to a good machinist first. It should be pretty easy, but I am not smart enough to get it made myself.
Ok. If you strike out, ill get you in contact with goodman
I might know a guy.
Shoot me an email with some specs and dimensions.
Are the holes to be used for safety wire? Or are the holes in line with the bolt?
I could be persuaded to make some chips.
In reply to jimbbski :
axially, through the length of the bolt
In reply to akylekoz :
Cool! Will send a PM.
You do know that them make "hollow" bolts?
https://www.lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/16_viewproduct_group.asp?idgroup=2512576
See also: gundrilled bolts.
I have a new to me 16x60 lathe. I'd be happy to chuck something in there but I haven't even spent the night at the holiday inn yet....
Those gundrilled bolts are exactly the ticket.
So I am thinking a 3/4-16 drilled bolt in a tapped hole in my knuckle. I can buy a tapered reamer and put the taper in the bolt, but there is a problem.
If I do this, I will not have enough room for a bolt head. The knuckle arm is 1" deep, but I have to room on either side for the bolt head since on one end is the tie rod and the other is the nut for the tie rod.
If I pull the bolt head off, and thread it in, the tie rod nut with a good washer should hold it in place. That and some red loctite on the threads might work.
Thoughts? There is always the risk of the new threaded spacer unscrewing and falling out of the bottom of the knuckle arm. The loctite will help, perhaps a weld bead or two makes it more serious?
I am still struggling with that. Maybe I drill radially through the spacer but not into the ID and run in a split pin additionally through both the spacer and the knuckle arm.
The minor diameter of a 3/4-16 bolt is 0.6718 whereas the largest od of the taper is .0623. I think that’s enough.
So you’re looking for a way to change the diameter of the hole on the knuckle?
this was how the off-road crew repairs knuckles that get worn out.
Sort of. Go from a big straight hole to a smaller tapered hole, and also have some amount of adjustment axially along the hole.
In reply to tuna55 :
Look around for these repair bushings and then use an extended ball joint.
I'm assuming this is for your tie rod end conundrum.
I don't think you need to worry about the new threaded sleeve backing out. On one side of the sleeve, will be the tie rod end, on the other the tie rod end nut, which will sandwich the sleeve into the knuckle, so I don't think you will need a nut.
I would still use red loctite on it, however.
Regarding the castle nuts you discussed in the video, tie rod ends and ball joints use either the castellated nut and cotter pin or a lock nut. You don't want them to let go!
My only concern with this approach would be to make sure there is still enough metal around the slightly enlarged tie rod end mounting hole.
I can help you with the machining as well if needed, but I am in Illinois. If no options closer to home are available, let me know. I would be glad to help get the Tuna Truck closer to being back on the road!
In reply to SaltyDog :
Yes it is!
My problem with the castle nuts is that they encourage you to overtorque or udertorque the nut to get it to line up. On a thread that small it can make a large difference.
I agree that I won't need a nut. I think I will buy a tapered mill or tapered reamer and one of those hollow bolts and get to work. Red Loctite is super useful, and will likely be permanent given that this area is under no heat.
The arm where I am putting this hole is large, I think about an inch across. My measurements (and the truck) are at home.
Thanks for the advice!
And also, wow, those tools are expensive.
More questions.
I believe my tie rod is called "2 inches per foot" but I don't know what that means. Is that the radius or the diameter?
I think real tapered endmills are sold from the radius angle from straight. I do not know for reamers. How do I make this match?
The taper changes 2 inches over a 1 foot length.
yup, I called Moog
2" per foot apparently ~= 10 degrees ish.
Since it is a relatively short distance, and the angle can be determined, you should be able to bore the taper with either the compound on an engine lathe or in a CNC lathe, saving you the cost of the tool.
SaltyDog said:Since it is a relatively short distance, and the angle can be determined, you should be able to bore the taper with either the compound on an engine lathe or in a CNC lathe, saving you the cost of the tool.
but buying the tool may save the cost of paying a person with a lathe.
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