Be careful when buying the tapered ream, there is also a 7degree used quite a lot. And yes the tool is expensive, not something you want to try and hand sharpen.
Would or could it be easier to have a slug cut with the desired taper and an outside step. That would allow you to shim the slug to the desired position and not have to worry about it unthreading itself. The step would be on the small end of the taper... with the possibility of a hold down screw or similar into the spindle.
tuna55 said:SaltyDog said:Since it is a relatively short distance, and the angle can be determined, you should be able to bore the taper with either the compound on an engine lathe or in a CNC lathe, saving you the cost of the tool.
but buying the tool may save the cost of paying a person with a lathe.
I can do it n/c. would just be some UPS involved as long as you're not in a huge hurry.
Got 3 lathes within 15 feet of me right now. Just let me know.
I've machined my own tapered shank adapters, not that I'm any good. You kinda want that angle perfect, not just trig/math/10°/give'r.
In reply to SkinnyG :
Exactly!
you need 100% contact between the tapered tie rod stud and the internal taper, otherwise all of the stress is concentrated on one spot instead of distributed over the entire stud.
It's not pretty when a tie rod end breaks.
SaltyDog said:tuna55 said:SaltyDog said:Since it is a relatively short distance, and the angle can be determined, you should be able to bore the taper with either the compound on an engine lathe or in a CNC lathe, saving you the cost of the tool.
but buying the tool may save the cost of paying a person with a lathe.
I can do it n/c. would just be some UPS involved as long as you're not in a huge hurry.
Got 3 lathes within 15 feet of me right now. Just let me know.
I'll definitely take you up on that. Sent PM
And replied. 
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