New radiator - 67 mustang 289

I know there's some classic mustang experience on here. I'm debating about getting a new radiator for my 67 mustang 289 (actually a 302 block) non air car. As far as I know, the rad in the car is original. I had the radiator refurbished about 4 years ago. The car seemed to run a bit hot even after. It has quite a few coats of paint on it, which may be part of the issue.

I noticed a new split right at the top tank this summer. I'm leaning buying new rad vs getting this one fixed again. I don't need concourse gold perfect, but I want largely original look (vs. new aluminum).

Does anyone have experience with the NPD 2 core design - looks live Vista-Pro, or imported 3 row? CJ Pony Parts 3 row stock replacement? All are about $250-260. Or other, better options?

I'm pretty sure I had a three row radiator in my last one. Make sure you use the fan shroud from an air conditioned car. They help a lot. A bottle of water wetter is a good idea as well.

If I were doing another old Mustang (I won't), I'd use a fat aluminum radiator and paint the top tank black.

I had a '65 with 289 bored .030. I always had cooling problems. Maybe it was the fixed old school fan I had, or maybe it was because I lived in burning hot central Florida. Anyway, I went through several radiators including getting the original re-cored with no luck. The final solution was brand new 4-core "desert cooler" radiator. I don't remember where I got it from though. I used to buy a lot of parts from Mustangs Plus out in Stockton, CA. They have a lot of nice restomod parts. Good luck.

My '70 302 'stang always ran on the hot side even after getting a 4 row radiator, water wetter helped a bit. I was young and dumb at the time and had a huge gap between the fan and shroud, which I'm sure didn't help. I also remember that there were a couple of aftermarket water pumps claiming an improved impeller design for increased flow at idle/low rpm, which I think was the root of my 'stang's problems, because it ran cool on the highway even in summer heat.

If I weren't trying to keep it period correct looking I would have converted it to 5.0 accessory drive/WP/serpentine belt set up.

Ive had good luck with champion aluminum radiators curing running hot over copper/brass.

Aluninum seems to be the cool ticket in classic Mustangland. Unless original appearance is highly important, they go aluminum.

I'd go with Woody's paint the tanks on an aluminum one suggestion, aluminum just plain works better as radiator core material.

My dad has a near concourse perfect 65 with a 289 4barrel, non-air, radiator just like original. It runs hot a lot even cruising around in WI. If you want it cool, you'll probably have to make a newer, better radiator look like an original one like woody said.

My 240z is all original under the hood except for a GIANT 4 row aluminum radiator. In Atlanta heat in traffic, I didn't care if it looked original or not, they just work with no anxiety.

A Jegs Ford-outlet aluminum radiator, a new Volvo pusher fan, and a used Volvo fan relay is probably a $350 package. I would do it just to see if it fixed the heat issues, and then if it did, see what I could do to disguise it with a false top.

I put a larger aluminum cross flow radiator with electric fan in my 66 mustang with a 347, runs cool in Fl. no issues. It was pretty easy to fab some mounts. I think that small down flow just isn't up to the task, especially if there's any upgrades to the engine.

Thanks all. I have an ACP Maxcore 2-row aluminum radiator and factory fan shroud on the way from CJ Pony Parts in Harrisburg, PA. I'll report back after the install (which will be awhile). This rad has an original looking top and bottom tank, so it should be a good compromise for what I need.

There's also 2 different factory radiators. Small block non-A/C cars got the 20" which mounts on the sides, while the small block A/C or big block cars got the 24" which mounts top and bottom. Obviously the 24" is the one to get, but make sure you've got the correct mounts too. When I switched from a 20" to a 24" it cost right at $250 for everything but I didn't go aluminum. Kinda wish I had.