Max_Archer
Max_Archer New Reader
4/25/12 11:11 p.m.

I notice that Tire Rack has the old version of the Star Specs in my size for about $15 cheaper than the new version. I'm gonna be daily driving on them, and running an autocross for fun about once a month, but I'm not willing to mod my car to the point where it'll be competitive in my class, so a few hundredths of difference in time between the two versions doesn't matter to me.

Should I just get the old ones while they're still available?

Javelin
Javelin GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
4/25/12 11:31 p.m.

I was unaware that there were two versions of the Star Spec. Are you sure you aren't confusing the 140 tw DZ101 Star Spec with the regular 300 tw Direzza?

Max_Archer
Max_Archer New Reader
4/25/12 11:36 p.m.

They're definitely the same tire. Identical names, "Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec." The cheaper ones are listed as closeout.

Here's the TR link: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?skipOver=true&width=195%2F&ratio=55&diameter=15

moxnix
moxnix Reader
4/26/12 6:35 a.m.

Link not working but assuming different build dates I have not heard of any running changes to the star specs that would make a time difference.

I know tirerack will sometimes put older build date tires on closeout to make room for newer build date tires (I got some nice Kumho V-710's this way last spring). As long as you are planning on using the tires up before they get to old I would see no issue with getting the closeout pricing ones.

HStockSolo
HStockSolo Reader
4/26/12 7:18 a.m.

I would say the older build dates are worth less than just $15 cheaper, but it is nice that they at least list them separately. I would prefer to know the actual DOT build dates stamped on the sidewall. The Sumitomo HTR Z IIIs I just bought from them had 3 different build dates.

HStockSolo
HStockSolo Reader
4/26/12 7:26 a.m.

Stolen from Andy Hollis.

Story time: A great example of all this is the ubiquitous 195 R1R. This was the first size of the tire that came out and Toyo must have made a ton of them as the 2007 build dates were still being sold well into 2010. All other sizes were being seen in 2008-2010 dates by then. Finally, mid-year in 2010 the cry went out that the 2007's were all gone and the 2010's were the only thing available. So, was there a difference and if so, was it good or bad? The durometer showed the new tires to be softer than the 3-year old ones. Not surprising, but was this better? Early testing showed that the new tires "went off" earlier in a run and were slower. But this testing was being done in the heat of the summer...would it hold true for cooler temps?

At the Solo Nats in Lincoln that year, we brought sets of both with us, initially running the 2007 tires at the Pro Finale based on our testing. Things weren't going well on the first day, though, so we checked date codes in impound and noticed that everyone in front of us after Saturday's competition was on the 2010's. We put those on for Sunday, moved to within a tenth of the class leader, then did well enough in the Challenge to win the Pro Solo Overall title. For the short duration Pro Solo runs, the newer tire was better. And for the Solo Nats itself, we ran as a single driver in an early heat so tire temp was a non-issue. As a result, two more championships were won that year on those tires. Most in the grid had no idea of the aging differences. We still have some of those 2007's and use them on hot days with repeated runs (e.g. summer testing) where they are faster and more consistent. For all other conditions we use the fresher tires.

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