Racing wouldn't be racing without constant setbacks. Nobody is immune to failure at some point in time, but if there's one thing you don't want to fail two weeks before a race, it's the engine. See what we're getting at?
After a flawless endurance race, our project turbo Miata gave out on us with the most inconvenient timing: while being …
I can't believe that turbocharger outlasted the engine 
I run my car with both a proper gauge AND a big warning light hooked to the '96+ 7 psi switch. You can never make low oil pressure too obvious for a driver.
Stainless feed line?
Very true, Keith. And yes, the feed line is a stainless braided line.
In reply to Keith Tanner:
Tell me more about this 96+ switch that I probably have two of in my basement.
And it didn't even get to go out in a blaze of glory, with connecting rods and chunks of block flying everywhere, just a relatively quiet death.
In reply to NickD:
Yeah, this way may be less exciting, but at least we might be able to salvage most of it and rebuild it.
In reply to Ed Higginbotham:
That is also true. It's just kinda like when you break a bone doing something normal and you don't get a cool story out of it.
I am (was) planning to stop by and say hi at daytona since I will be there wrenching for another team. If you need an extra wrench spinner please contact me. I'll have plenty of spare time and would love to help. Email me if you guys would like my phone#. I live in Orlando.
Sorry to hear about your engine. That reminds me to replace my oil pressure sending unit with one from an NA6.
Of note: I just finished replacing my suspension bushings with the energy poly ones. Don't even try to push them out, you'll just get frustrated. Energy recommends (and I agree) using a torch and heating the old bushings till you hear them crackle but not actually burst into flame and then knocking them out with a punch (I used a 8" extension and a 22mm impact socket). They stink so good to do outside.
NickD wrote: And it didn't even get to go out in a blaze of glory, with connecting rods and chunks of block flying everywhere, just a relatively quiet death.
If I'm going to loose a race motor I want them to have to clean track the afterwards. This way is less expensive however.
In reply to appliance_racer:
We'll see you there! Thanks for the offer.
KyAllroad wrote: Sorry to hear about your engine. That reminds me to replace my oil pressure sending unit with one from an NA6. Of note: I just finished replacing my suspension bushings with the energy poly ones. Don't even try to push them out, you'll just get frustrated. Energy recommends (and I agree) using a torch and heating the old bushings till you hear them crackle but not actually burst into flame and then knocking them out with a punch (I used a 8" extension and a 22mm impact socket). They stink so good to do outside.
I did it 2 winters ago. I pretty much had to set mine on fire. The garage stunk for 2-3 weeks afterwards.
KyAllroad wrote: Of note: I just finished replacing my suspension bushings with the energy poly ones. Don't even try to push them out, you'll just get frustrated. Energy recommends (and I agree) using a torch and heating the old bushings till you hear them crackle but not actually burst into flame and then knocking them out with a punch (I used a 8" extension and a 22mm impact socket). They stink so good to do outside.
We actually had a fairly easy time pressing them out with a hydraulic press with no torch. But when I changed them on my personal Miata a couple years ago, we did have to heat them. Might depend on the state of the bushings.
I've always just pressed bushings out. I guess I didn't know how hard it was to do 
Woody wrote: In reply to Keith Tanner: Tell me more about this 96+ switch that I probably have two of in my basement.
It's exactly that - an NO switch that closes at right around 7 psi. Put a tee on your sender and you get both a real gauge and an idiot light trigger. Hook it to a really, really, really bright LED aimed at the driver's optic nerve - or ideally, use it to reroute the ignition coil output to a couple of clips connected to the driver's testicles because drivers don't see lights.
FM has the parts needed. For the adapter, not the testicle clips.
I wonder if the testicle clip option would eliminate the "I saw the pressure was low but I thought it might make it till the end of the race" problem.
APEowner wrote: I wonder if the testicle clip option would eliminate the "I saw the pressure was low but I thought it might make it till the end of the race" problem.
That's just a question as to what's more important -- the engine or the trophy.
But usually what happens is you lose both...
"Turbo Miata goes boom?!" I had visions of broken engine parts and a spectacular failure and all I get is fake news. 
1988RedT2 wrote: "Turbo Miata goes boom?!" I had visions of broken engine parts and a spectacular failure and all I get is fake news.
Yeah, I was picturing something like what happened when a friend decided to see just what the little turbo on his Volvo could do... Some E85, not enough timing retard and a plugged wastegate line later... Made it 36 hours of driving before it came to rest on the side of the road at the end of a 1/4 mile streak of oil and engine bits... He said he could hear parts of the rods bouncing off the floor pan when it let go 
NickD wrote: And it didn't even get to go out in a blaze of glory, with connecting rods and chunks of block flying everywhere, just a relatively quiet death.
I seen a lot of busted motors but never one that sawed itself near in half before.
regarding a potential rebuild. KAI for rods boundary engineering for oil pump king bearings COP conversion modifed 4G63 intake manifold and enjoy the booooost
Oh and last night we were pulling the engine and pressure tested that braided oil line leading to the turbo. It was blowing oil out just before the banjo fitting on the turbo end. So that was the weak link, not that it matters too much anymore.
Knurled wrote:NickD wrote: And it didn't even get to go out in a blaze of glory, with connecting rods and chunks of block flying everywhere, just a relatively quiet death.
Step 1: Buy JB Weld
Step 2: Pull 1 degree of timing
Step 3: Schedule rematch
Ed Higginbotham wrote: Oh and last night we were pulling the engine and pressure tested that braided oil line leading to the turbo. It was blowing oil out just before the banjo fitting on the turbo end. So that was the weak link, not that it matters too much anymore.
Sounds like a bad crimp. Custom line from a local shop or from a Russel/Earls type source?
In reply to Keith Tanner:
It actually wasn't at the crimp itself. it was an inch or two down the line.
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