Jerry
HalfDork
7/11/13 8:11 p.m.
So I've removed all the carpet from the MR2, except the headliner. The passenger side floorboard area is pretty clean for a 26 year old car. The driver's side? Not so much.
You can kind of see some of it here.
I'd like to paint it white to just take the edge off at least, it doesn't have to be perfect. Any recommendations on type? I was thinking the appliance epoxy-type paint I saw at Home Depot, with a brush. Thinking spray paint will go all over the inside of a car.
Any ideas?
Light gray, not white, Rustoleum would be my choice. Brush it on with a foam brush. If the epoxy is better than that, go for it.
Edit - I should say /why/ Rustoleum... in my mind, its cheap and easy to touch up in the future.
I usually use the paintable spray can rubberized undercoating that they sell at Autozone, Advance, and such
44Dwarf
SuperDork
7/11/13 9:28 p.m.
Go to tractor supply for paint and use their hardner with out it your wasting your time and $$ as it will peel, scratch and take for ever to dry. or use a garage floor expoxy with the color non slip flakes just like older land yachts in there trunks.
If you want it to stay clean, I would not do the bedliner stuff. It looks awesome at first, but it collects all kinds of stuff down in every crevice and you can never truly get it clean again. I would do the TSC paint with hardener and put some skateboard grip tape where your heels would be.
I used satin white Rustoleum brush-on on the interior of my Spec Miata. Worked well.
Anyone try Summit Racing's Non-Skid Coating?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-sp1602/overview/
Why not Por 15, protect the metal from rust and can take A serious beating cause it's tough stuff. ( unscientifically it will stiffen your floor pans with the added structural rigidity of diamonds)
Jerry
HalfDork
7/12/13 6:51 a.m.
In reply to DaveEstey:
How long did that take to dry? And I'm assuming you covered it up with carpet or something (looks like a resto).
In reply to amg_rx7:
Did it hold up to footprints fairly well? Rallycrossing means it's going to get dirty, I get that. But I'd like to do something to clean it up a bit.
That's definitely not a resto. See Dave's hilllclimb build thread.
My rallycross car I did POR-15 and then brush-on rust-oleum bedliner. It has held up great for 2 years now and I haven't had to recoat anything. The bedliner isn't terribly "rough." I rinse the car out with a hose after every event, and a sponge gets any caked-on red clay up no problem.
How clean is the rest of the car? I haven't seen a truly clean AW11 in a few months. Get it done professionally, it will be worth it. They really are becoming rare.
In reply to Jerry:
Took about 3 hours to dry (it was hot as blazes that day). Not covered up at all. This is my race car. $11 in paint for the entire floor applied with a 3" brush. I did it mostly to make it all one color and prevent rust after I removed about 35 pounds of sound deadening that revealed bare metal.
Cage will likely be the same color. White is too bright and reflective. Black is too hot.
If you want more grip you could probably sprinkle a little sand in the paint when it's still wet.
Jerry
HalfDork
7/14/13 4:37 p.m.
In reply to DaveEstey:
Plain old grey Rustoleum paint and a roller huh? Sounds like a winner, thanks.
Always easy to touch up when needed too.
I used Rustoleum Hammer Finish paint to paint the floor, roll cage, and interior of my race car. It dries fast, it's hard, minor nicks & chips are hidden by the finish. You put it on heavy, to the point of having runs in the paint to get the best hammer effect. Thinning the paint helps.
Jerry
HalfDork
7/15/13 8:05 a.m.
My only concern is the floorboard has some ick left from the old carpet & insulation. Kinda like to just cover the whole damn thing.