Plug and play Miata fuel pump...

Are there any Miata fuel pump replacements that DON'T require wire splicing???

I need to replace the one on my '99, and every pump I see requires wire splicing..  Not a big fan of that....

I didn't have to splice any wires on the Wal-Bro I installed in my car this winter BUT I have a 1990 car, and I had to chop up the tube on the sender and replace it with a piece of rubber hose as part of the install as part of the early-car-weirdness

If you are going to own an older car then you need to be good about terminating wires so that you can create your own connections. This has been covered extensively on this board and on other YouTube videos. Just take the time to learn man, it’s well worth it.

In reply to _ :

That's not the problem.  I know how to do it, it's just that I would rather NOT have a wire splice in the fuel tank.  It adds a point of failure, and most of the splice kits i see with the pump are the cheap POS splices.  

Instead of splicing, a mich better alternative is to find OEM pins, take the connector apart, and do that.  But it's easier to find someone who has already done it.

what about a good used part? should be a drop in no?

In reply to alfadriver :

Gotcha. Can you do an external pump that draws through the old one? I’ve had cars that do that. Then the connections are on the outside of the tank, and you’d no longer need to access the tank for a bad connection. (If you do this, use spade terminals, crimped in a terminating tool, and then heat shrink the connection. This way, it’s not coming apart, AND you can always access the connections for diagnosis.)

Mazda probably has one.

Ours require splicing, but we include good quality butt connectors with heatshrinking. Use a good crimper, it'll be as good as anything from the factory.

Robbie said:

what about a good used part? should be a drop in no?

Uh, it's used?  Not exactly a part that one should take a chance on a used part, IMHO.  Especially since I want to drive the car forever.

It's not the price that's bugging me, it's the fact that pretty much every replacement is a splice job.  

_ said:

In reply to alfadriver :

Gotcha. Can you do an external pump that draws through the old one? I’ve had cars that do that. Then the connections are on the outside of the tank, and you’d no longer need to access the tank for a bad connection. (If you do this, use spade terminals, crimped in a terminating tool, and then heat shrink the connection. This way, it’s not coming apart, AND you can always access the connections for diagnosis.)

Possible.

But accessing the pump on this car is remarkably easy.  The hardest part turned out to be removing the trim trees holding the carpet down.  After that, the pump was out in 10 min.  So I'd rather stick to the OEM set up.

BTW, if anyone cares- the car was sitting still for 2-3 years, and the tank was virtually empty.  Interestingly enough, the tank is pretty darned clean- there's no debris in the tank at all- no rust, no nothing.  So its likely that the failure is just sitting in open air.  Again, the pump/sender is in such a great location that you can really look close in the tank.  Great car to work on.

The pump would not turn with 12V applied, so I'm 99% confident that it's the problem.

I would stay away from used pumps, especially if they've been out of the car for a while. You know exactly why - you've experienced it yourself.

Mazda OE is under $250 with Team Support pricing. You can get that if you do two track days or autoxes per year.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Other than calling the local dealer, who has Mazda OE parts online?

Mazda does if you join the team support program!

I think we often use Med Center Mazda. Trussville Mazda is another option.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Oh snap! It only takes two autocrosses to get the benefits? I’m only one away!

It does! Mazda's Team Support program is fantastic. Best prices anywhere on OE parts, especially body panels.

alfadriver said:

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Other than calling the local dealer, who has Mazda OE parts online?

I've ordered a bunch of OEM parts from these guys recently: https://www.mazdabestpartsonline.com/

IIRC they were recommended on here, good prices and pretty quick shipping. I did have to use Jim Ellis' Mazda parts catalogue to look up some of the part numbers as most of the Mazda dealers don't have the full 'fiches' online.

https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/get-started/team-membership/

this says you only have to participate in one event, or be building a race car that gets finished in 24months...  that sounds even easier!

BoxheadTim said:

alfadriver said:

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Other than calling the local dealer, who has Mazda OE parts online?

I've ordered a bunch of OEM parts from these guys recently: https://www.mazdabestpartsonline.com/

IIRC they were recommended on here, good prices and pretty quick shipping. I did have to use Jim Ellis' Mazda parts catalogue to look up some of the part numbers as most of the Mazda dealers don't have the full 'fiches' online.

FYI, you get access to all the fiches (up to 2013, and again in 2016) via the Mazda motorsports portal when you're a member.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

I let my membership lapse when I sold the RX8 and haven't signed up again. But thanks for the reminder, I really need to sign up for next year with the NA.

Mazda motorsports is definitely the way to go for oem parts. That reminds me that it is probably about time to submit race results again.

https://www.prioritymazdaparts.com

This is where the guy from Rosenthal went.  Very active on miata.net, very knowledgeable about oem parts. Reasonable prices too.

Keith Tanner said:

BoxheadTim said:

alfadriver said:

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Other than calling the local dealer, who has Mazda OE parts online?

I've ordered a bunch of OEM parts from these guys recently: https://www.mazdabestpartsonline.com/

IIRC they were recommended on here, good prices and pretty quick shipping. I did have to use Jim Ellis' Mazda parts catalogue to look up some of the part numbers as most of the Mazda dealers don't have the full 'fiches' online.

FYI, you get access to all the fiches (up to 2013, and again in 2016) via the Mazda motorsports portal when you're a member.

I appreciate the suggestion of the motorsports program.  But even when I was racing, I would not have qualified to be a member of the program- lacking membership in either the SCCA nor NASA.  So, for me, that's not an option.  

You only have to be a SCCA/NASA member if you're competing in sanctioned events. Unless they've changed the rules, two track days still count as do non-sanctioned autox. For example, the Miatas at Laguna Seca weekend will qualify you. Any autox where you can provide results will qualify you. It's a really low bar for entry.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Maybe I read it wrong for the membership, but my last autocross was in 2012.  So....

Back to OP, after seeing some "interesting" results with drop in high flow fuel pumps, I wouldn't run the stock wiring at all.  Run 14 or even 12 gauge wire through a passthrough, bypassing the OE small wire and tiny pins entirely, and stick a relay as close as possible with 12 or 10 gauge wire coming straight from the battery. 

The voltage drop can be ridiculous with some of the newer pumps, and I've seen browned/blackened OE wiring and pins after a remarkably short period of time.

Keith Tanner said:

You only have to be a SCCA/NASA member if you're competing in sanctioned events. Unless they've changed the rules, two track days still count as do non-sanctioned autox. For example, the Miatas at Laguna Seca weekend will qualify you. Any autox where you can provide results will qualify you. It's a really low bar for entry.

+1 for Mazdamotorsports membership. You can call and are very helpful. Saved my bacon a few times.